What's on your bench today?

[Rich2484]

Youve had your guess

 

But I thought we get three guesses before we are out. :lol:

[Pat Ferrett]

Its a part of the front door lock mechanism from my house, built in 1904, suffered bomb damage in ww2 and then gave up the ghost last week when the spring snapped, lucky for me the replacement cam and spring were still in the loft from what must have been spares left over from when the house was built

Id like a pound for every time the cam has turned in the last 109 years.

[SpannerRat]

Hi Guys, ive been lurking for a while, I joined Arbtalk on the back of this thread, so firstly THANKS for those that contribute and pass on their knowledge.

I have an 020T that just wont run right and everything points to an air leak so took the plunge and had my first go at vac and pressure testing.

 

Started ok with vacuum but with pressure, about 10psi, i think i found the leaks.

 

Any advice on changing the seals without the fancy seal remover like Spud's gratefully received:001_smile:

[spudulike]

Hi Guys, ive been lurking for a while, I joined Arbtalk on the back of this thread, so firstly THANKS for those that contribute and pass on their knowledge.

I have an 020T that just wont run right and everything points to an air leak so took the plunge and had my first go at vac and pressure testing.

 

Started ok with vacuum but with pressure, about 10psi, i think i found the leaks.

 

Any advice on changing the seals without the fancy seal remover like Spud's gratefully received:001_smile:

 

Those fancy pullers are useless on MS200/020T seals, I use a pointed awl and mallet, press the awl on the outer seal and belt the handle with the mallet - these seals usually shatter and can then be removed relatively easily.

 

Don't know how others do it but it works for me and well - just make sure any fine bits don't get in to the bearing.

 

Seals....done:lol:

[Rich2484]

Welcome.

 

And yes the same way spud does it. Take great care you don't hit into the crank casing and damage that edge. Are the bearings ok? There is no side movement int he crank?

 

Worth pilling the crank about and feeling for movement while turning the piston seeing as you are this deep it would be a shame not to check the bearing while you are at it.

[SpannerRat]

Thanks

Sounds like good advice re the bearings, it did leak worse as i moved the crankshaft about so they may be better getting replaced, I have no experience of the roller type so not sure if they should feel different from the ball type.

 

I decided to do the crank bearings on my MS260 last week and once I started realised i'd perhaps bitten off a bit more than I could chew - lots of googleing to try to work out how split the cases. ....

Running now although yet to try it on a log.

 

Its becoming addictive.

[Rich2484]

It will leak worse as the seals are gone.

 

It's more about sideways movement or movement in the crank to bearing clearence, like its rattling around the bearings. You will generally get a feeling for them if they are gone.

 

By the way the 200 is a LOT easier to replace than any other saw.

[spudulike]

Following on from Rich's good advice, the MS200Ts/020Ts seals go very hard with age and sometimes seem fine under pressure/vacuum unless you rotate or pull on the crankshaft where air is either pulled in or evacuates fast. I rotate the crank and if I get a slight drop in ne place, pull the sjaft about in this position to check the seal.

 

As far as the bearings go, the MS200 bearings are a bit strange - like a heavy duty needle roller bearing where the needle roller runs on the crank.

 

They normally have a tiny bit of play that a typical ball race simply won't have. This is typical of the type of bearing and is usual.

 

On MS200s, where operators have over tightened the chain regularly, the clutch side bearing can develop a bit of play, this can result in a bit of tapping from the crank that isn't that bad and then in time, a heavier rattle at idle speeds.

 

If the saw idles and sounds sweet, then you have no issues, if the saw taps at idle then it may need doing in time but TBH, it will last a good while longer.

 

If it really rattles, it is a case of measuring up the crank and replacing the bearing and possibly the crank if it measures low on the bearing contact area.

 

They are easy to work on and easy to split and drive out the bearings - just replace the things if the saw knocks a bit more than is healthy!

[Stubby]

Following on from Rich's good advice, the MS200Ts/020Ts seals go very hard with age and sometimes seem fine under pressure/vacuum unless you rotate or pull on the crankshaft where air is either pulled in or evacuates fast. I rotate the crank and if I get a slight drop in ne place, pull the sjaft about in this position to check the seal.

 

As far as the bearings go, the MS200 bearings are a bit strange - like a heavy duty needle roller bearing where the needle roller runs on the crank.

 

They normally have a tiny bit of play that a typical ball race simply won't have. This is typical of the type of bearing and is usual.

 

On MS200s, where operators have over tightened the chain regularly, the clutch side bearing can develop a bit of play, this can result in a bit of tapping from the crank that isn't that bad and then in time, a heavier rattle at idle speeds.

 

If the saw idles and sounds sweet, then you have no issues, if the saw taps at idle then it may need doing in time but TBH, it will last a good while longer.

 

If it really rattles, it is a case of measuring up the crank and replacing the bearing and possibly the crank if it measures low on the bearing contact area.

 

They are easy to work on and easy to split and drive out the bearings - just replace the things if the saw knocks a bit more than is healthy!

 

You don't half know some stuff Steve !

[Rich2484]

Had a bit of a busy day today.

 

First up was a stihl saw. I have worked on it before but can't remember what one it was an ms19 something or other. Anyway. Wouldn't go to stop. The ground lever wasnt going past the small cam and grounding out. Gave it a bit of a bend and all is fine.

 

Next was a Hayter mower with Briggs and Stratton engine. It was fired up once a week over Xmas to keep the fuel from gunking up but this time it just wouldn't start. A bit of fuel down the intake and away it went. Left running for half hour and all was fine. Stopped and started good. Said to keep an eye on it and of it wouldn't start at any time to call and I will clean out the carb.

 

Then it was a Honda water pump. Would start on choke but when choke off would rev its nuts off. It was lent out before and came back like it. Checked and cleaned fuel bowl and main jet. Bit of crud on bowl but jet was clear. On putting back together noticed the governor was jammed open all the way with a bit of cardboard....... Removed this and it was all good again.

 

Finally is the one I think I'm going to be stuck on. A dolmar 116. Chain break cover was not going on properly. On removal I discovered that he had tried to put the cover on with the chain break band closed. This had jammed on the clutch drum and then it has been forced to go on over the top. The drum was badly worn and is now all bent up. A few tweaks and its straight again and got the cover on properly but the drum still needs to be replaced.

 

So a question is who or where can I get a new drum for it from...