What's on your bench today?

[spudulike]

Cheers ill do that

 

Whats the normal cause for a piston to wear as bad as this one, its been worn down by quite a few mm from the rings down and allowed the piston to rock enough to come into contact with the con rod

 

Di I need instant gasket from stilh or is there an off the shelf one I can buy?

 

Many thanks for all the help that your not only giving Me but also so many other members of the forum we all owe you enough beer to sink a battle ship

 

TBH I haven't seen wear like this ever but would suspect that either the saw has been seized but continued to run - if the bore is clean then this doesn't really support this.

 

The other theory is that the piston skirt has worn badly, possibly down to ingress of fine wood chip and this gave the saw piston skirt wear, producing something called "piston slap" where the lower piston is that worn that it slaps the lower cylinder at the bottom of the stroke - more common on longer stroke machines and have had 024/026 & 038s with this.

 

Are you sure that the piston has come in to contact with the con rod - the skirt may have just got thin and shattered! Guess that is what the knocking noise was!

 

Sealent - I have used Blue Hylomar and blue loctite in the past but any heat resistant liquid gasket material will do, Stihl do their own that you can purchase. Hylomar is specified by Honda on horizontally split motorcycle crankcases and that is where I first used it.

 

Good luck - glad to help!

[Pat Ferrett]

It was a guess that the conrod had made contact because it lines up perfectly.

The cylinder has the number 1127-029 and the saw is a 1998 will I still have to measure the cylinder or will these numbers tell me weather the new piston should be 45mm 0r 46mm The engine number is +142394249

what should a cylinder measure for the 45mm and the 46 mm piston ?

[spudulike]

It was a guess that the conrod had made contact because it lines up perfectly.

The cylinder has the number 1127-029 and the saw is a 1998 will I still have to measure the cylinder or will these numbers tell me weather the new piston should be 45mm 0r 46mm The engine number is +142394249

what should a cylinder measure for the 45mm and the 46 mm piston ?

 

Would you believe 45mm or 46mm:001_rolleyes:

 

If you measure the piston with your verniers, it will come up at something like 44.95mm or 45.95mm which would equate to 45 and 46mm, the cylinder would be around 0.03mm larger (Gnats cock in the trade) but for measurement purposes, just measure across the crown of the piston -just above the gudgeon pin as the sides will generally not wear as much as the front and rear - it should be pretty obvious which one you have.

 

I could probably find out from your info but easier just to measure the component.

[GardenKit]

According to Stihl Bulletin 46.97 in 1997 all 029 saws after ser no 39305257 had the 46mm piston and bore and the saw was redesignated the 029 super.

 

Does this help guys?

[Pat Ferrett]

Yeah mine is the SUPER:adore: and the cylinder is as 46mm Thanks for all the help you guys Ill return the favour one day

[spudulike]

According to Stihl Bulletin 46.97 in 1997 all 029 saws after ser no 39305257 had the 46mm piston and bore and the saw was redesignated the 029 super.

 

Does this help guys?

 

Ah the joys of being a Stihl dealer:thumbup: Thanks Barrie - saved Jammy getting his pinkies dirty again:lol:

[wyk]

I couldn't leave well enough alone. I took the 444SE and bored the carb out some more, and added a second opening to the muffler since it sounded like pretty high pressure coming out of it previously. The tank vent is obstructed and can't keep up with the saw now. I'll fix that tomorrow, it was too hot today(33C and 40% humid). You can see me vent the tank to get her started, and then she dies again later on.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hAe-2OZEQmQ]Ported, popped, Husqvarna 444SE, dual ported muffler, Carb bored to 33mm, 18" 3/8 B&C - YouTube[/ame]

[bobh]

Sounds ok to me but I winced every time you tried to start it, looks like an accident waiting to happen.

[spudulike]

Sounds ok to me but I winced every time you tried to start it, looks like an accident waiting to happen.

 

Nah, the pointy bit was well away from his extremities:lol: The fast idle setting probably doesnt work too well but sounds sweetl and for an older smaller saw, pulls well in the cut - reckon it may well embarass a few larger saws:thumbup:

[wyk]

I had to set it to idle a tad fast so I could richen it up due to the vent issue. Turns out this had the old fuel cap vent set up. So now I have to hunt down the correct fuel cap... It explains why it leaned out on the previous owner and seized. In the vid you can see in 3 cuts it goes a bit leaner and has trouble staying on.

 

As for the starting it, I would usually have the bar pointed more down or on a log(like this: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8uNt0CqU0c]372XP in Big Leaf Maple - YouTube[/ame]), but this thing is so light I can just hold it out and start it. No, it's not the way health and safety or the guilds teach you(and I do have my first 3 certs), but it's how I usually start a saw if I am not in proximity to anything. Have you noticed it hasn't even got a chain brake yet? This saw is 30 years old. I used my first saw in forestry cutting fire lines in the Sierra Nevada's in the early 1990's. That saw had a chain brake, tho

 

At this point it's faster than the stock 50's we have by a good margin. Well, at least until the vent causes a problem. Once the vent is fixed, I will advance the timing some. It's running 195psi, so I don't want to go too crazy on the timing. But even a small bit of timing makes a big difference.