What's on your bench today?

[Chris Sheppard]

The newer Husky coils have the HT lead potted in to the coil - I measure the resistance between the cut out connection and the ht inner cover where the plug electrode fits - it should give a reading of a few ohms.

 

In life you get what you pay for, I would look out for a genuine second hand one. Many are interchangeable - 346, 357, 345, 350 etc

 

Dropped into local dealer yesterday and we put the coil on some sort of tester and it was sparking inside the casing - apparently a new one on them.

 

Anyhow, got a used one out of their scrap bin but had to fit my HT lead - thankfully they do unscrew

 

So, good news is 2159 is sorted now and the 372 took all of 2 mins to fit the new AV.

 

My latest ebay saw arrived yesterday - 242 G that reckoned to be a bit temperamental. Shoved som fresh fuel in and it'll sometimes run for a few sec, other times just fire and other times not do owt. Tried a splash of fuel down the plug hole and it firedstriaght away. It seems to be sparking fairly well too and doesn't seem to be wetting the plug so I'm guessing it's not sucking fuel through very consistently.

[wisewood]

Just wanted to update on the question regarding location of chain catcher on the 066. Stihl have advised that on a single dog it fits using the lower dog mount screw, see picture,

spud, I'm sorry for making you waste 1/2 an hr of your life looking for an image of one for me.

Cheers,

Si

[spudulike]

Just wanted to update on the question regarding location of chain catcher on the 066. Stihl have advised that on a single dog it fits using the lower dog mount screw, see picture,

spud, I'm sorry for making you waste 1/2 an hr of your life looking for an image of one for me.

Cheers,

Si

 

Thats what I said a few days back:001_rolleyes:

 

Oh ye of little faith - I do know what I am doing!!

 

Just buy it - only around £3, undo that bolt, slide the catcher in to the recess and put the bolt back in and do it up.

 

The roller type can only be used with a two dog set up as it uses the second dog as support.

 

Wish I had ordered the thing for you now Si:lol:

[wisewood]

Thats what I said a few days back:001_rolleyes:

 

Oh ye of little faith - I do know what I am doing!!

 

Just buy it - only around £3, undo that bolt, slide the catcher in to the recess and put the bolt back in and do it up.

 

The roller type can only be used with a two dog set up as it uses the second dog as support.

 

Wish I had ordered the thing for you now Si:lol:

 

LOL, yeh that would have been easier all round mate ha ha. I thought you were on about the screw hole at the very bottom of the dog, ie like the roller type:001_rolleyes:

It's already on order,so should be sorted soon. Don't know why but machines make my brain melt, just goes to show you can get a degree and still be thick as a brick:laugh1:

[wisewood]

Thanks spud, L&S Engineers are a top company:thumbup:

I only ordered the catcher and some other bits yesterday afternoon and they have just arrived, that's what I call a good service. Now fitted and feeling all good with myself and the world.

After all this malarkey I thought I should at least offer a pic, possibly the only example to be found on google images:001_tongue:

Si

[spudulike]

Well done, we got there in the end, that hole in th ebottom of the dog is for the roller type, both dogs have them and the roller is secured on one side and a push fit through the other!

 

Good luck with the saw, bed it in gradually over 10 - 20 tanks, small bar and short cuts to begin with and then heavier stuff later - getting a reputation for these 066/MS660s now:thumbup:

[wisewood]

Right, next problem:sneaky2:

I might start a new thread titled " Ask spud"

Ok, I've got a little home owner saw, Mountfield MC382. I've been switching between the original 16" bar and an 8" carving bar. It tends to race at idle with the carving bar and I guess this is mostly because of the reduced bar size. However, recently it has started to race on the original bar as well when running hot. Race might be a bit strong but it's an issue non the less.

I've read some previous threads on fast idle issues but would like to test with the carb settings to slow the idle speed but not keen on leaning it out and buggering the saw. I've not touched the settings so it will still be at factory settings.

Cheers,

Si

[spudulike]

Right, next problem:sneaky2:

I might start a new thread titled " Ask spud"

Ok, I've got a little home owner saw, Mountfield MC382. I've been switching between the original 16" bar and an 8" carving bar. It tends to race at idle with the carving bar and I guess this is mostly because of the reduced bar size. However, recently it has started to race on the original bar as well when running hot. Race might be a bit strong but it's an issue non the less.

I've read some previous threads on fast idle issues but would like to test with the carb settings to slow the idle speed but not keen on leaning it out and buggering the saw. I've not touched the settings so it will still be at factory settings.

Cheers,

Si

 

The racing on the short bar and not on the long one is almost definitely caused by the short bar having less friction and spinning where the large one is stoping the chain spinning - the route cause will be either the idle is too fast or their is twine/crud around the clutch/sprocket bearing, crank shaft, sprocket bearing - a worn clutch spring is also possible.

 

Give the clutch area a good old dowsing with WD40, then squirt a bit of oil on it to lube the sprocket bearing and try it again. It is possible the clutch spring is a bit saggy and that can be a prime cause for the chain spinning when the idle is set correctly.

 

Try this before doing anything else!

[wisewood]

The racing on the short bar and not on the long one is almost definitely caused by the short bar having less friction and spinning where the large one is stoping the chain spinning - the route cause will be either the idle is too fast or their is twine/crud around the clutch/sprocket bearing, crank shaft, sprocket bearing - a worn clutch spring is also possible.

 

Give the clutch area a good old dowsing with WD40, then squirt a bit of oil on it to lube the sprocket bearing and try it again. It is possible the clutch spring is a bit saggy and that can be a prime cause for the chain spinning when the idle is set correctly.

 

Try this before doing anything else!

 

Cheers for that spud, I'll give it all a damn good clean and try the wd40:thumbup1:

[Chris Sheppard]

Rained off today so had chance to get a proper look at the old 242.

 

Fired pretty much straight away, started well and ran for 2/3 seconds then died. Pulled and pulled and wouldn't fire again. Took starter cover off and cleaned and refitted the ignition (properly gungy) and is definitely producing what looks a good spark and seems to be consisitent.

 

Fairly sure it's not pulling fuel through (when pulled the plug out after it wouldn't start, it was dry too). Checked filter in the tank and that seemed clean. Fuel pipe looks to be OK. Did notite when pulling the engine over on the bench that there was a squelching noise coming from near the carb though, but not a noise I'd expect to hear.

 

I've never had need to dip into a saw carb (fortunately) but am wondering if it could be a worn diaphragm?

 

It that's a possibility, how easy are diaphragm kits to fit? Have worked on bike carbs before in the past - so aren't completely ham fisted (well maybe a little )

 

Am open to other suggestions too

 

Whipped exhaust off and the piston looks to be in good fettle and compression feels as good as any other 242.