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spudulike

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Hi All,

Im looking for a chain tensioning mechanism for my 2013 560xp, I bent the screw slightly back in the summer but it was still usable until this week.

 

I've found some new online but they are extortionate so hope someone has a used one on a spares & repairs saw?

 

Obviously expect to pay something fair for it, hope you can help.

 

Jackalope

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1 of the bearings is still on the crank :thumbdown: just don't want to make a mess of it :001_tt2:

Just tap it off gently with a drift, it will be fine (I take it your replacing them anyway?)

Just make sure to put the end of the crank on a block of wood and if its the flywheel side screw the nut on so its flush with the end of the crank so you don't damage the threads.

The stihl bearings aren't that tight and compared to husqvarnas :thumbup1:

 

If your that bothered use a puller on it put its likely you will have to tap it slightly anyway to get the feet of the puller around the back off the bearing. Ive never used or felt the need to use a puller and prob rebuilt 100 saws.

Edited by wisecobandit
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Just tap it off gently with a drift, it will be fine (I take it your replacing them anyway?)

Just make sure to put the end of the crank on a block of wood and if its the flywheel side screw the nut on so its flush with the end of the crank so you don't damage the threads.

The stihl bearings aren't that tight and compared to husqvarnas :thumbup1:

 

If your that bothered use a puller on it put its likely you will have to tap it slightly anyway to get the feet of the puller around the back off the bearing. Ive never used or felt the need to use a puller and prob rebuilt 100 saws.

 

I got unlucky with an MS660 once, nothing would shift the bearing and eventually used loads of heat and a puller but it shagged the bearing! Know what you mean by Huskys, very tight!

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Thanks guys :thumbup1: appreciate it 👍

 

After you have fitted the bearings and put the crankcases together, the crank may be stiff to turn, give it a few taps on both ends and it should free up nicely. Also check the bearings can go in either way as some only go in one way round!

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Do you want a complete chainbrake with adjuster, or just the adjuster.

 

Just the chain tension adjuster, nothing to do with the chain break- the threaded screw you can see on the side plate (is what I bent) with the pin which fits into the bar.

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I got unlucky with an MS660 once, nothing would shift the bearing and eventually used loads of heat and a puller but it shagged the bearing! Know what you mean by Huskys, very tight!

 

Best thing with the husqys is using a husqy splitter they stay in the crankcase as the splitter holds them in situ. It certainly does the same on 660's and alike prob down to about 034/ms340 size. Below that theres a smaller splitter and keep meaning to make a downscale version but never had the need. You can just reduce the splay of the arms inside the crankcase of the larger splitter and it would work but never had anything that small stubborn enough.

 

As for reinstallation on huskys as you prob know Spud I find it easiest to fit the bearings on the crank first then warm up the crankcases to install the "ready bearing'd crank. Never had to stoop to having to have to put the crank in the freezer yet to contract the crank assembly down tho cussed a bit on a few 395's :laugh1:

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The manufactuers really need to take you on to write there workshop manuals :thumbup::laugh1:

 

Barrie at garden kit. Thank you for sharing your vast knowledge. Fair play to you. You have obviously been doing this for a while as you are an absolute oracle of information. If i wasnt so far from you i would just bring it down and say here you go, as you sure sound as if you know your stuff.

 

I havent had a tweak yet as been too busy as work but will let you know results.

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