What's on your bench today?

[spudulike]

Spud, i got a metal clutch bearing for my 261, it's a bit better but there is still a fair bit of slop between the bearing and crankshaft wich allows a fair bit of movement on the clutch drum. Am sure I herd somewhere that the early 261 had a crank issue? ???

 

What can I do.

 

The play may be on the drum, the bearing or worn crankshaft or a mixture of the three.

 

If you have fitted a new bearing and still have play, fit a new clutch drum and if the play is still there, the issue is the crankshaft and that will be a big job.

 

It is common for a bad bearing to open the hole up in the clutch drum so go that route first before worrying about it.

 

Hope this helps:thumbup1:

[Ian C]

Thanks Steve will do and report back

[billpierce]

so i have a 345 and a jonny 2152 on the "bench" today...

 

345,

 

starts, runs and cuts fine but seems to have a slightly irratic idle sometimes 4000 rpm sometimes 2800, after revving up it takes a while to get revs down to normal idle speed (but the chain does stop spinning ok.). other symptom is that it pretty much always has to be started on half throttle (even on hot start.) and it wont ever rev over 11000 whatever the H screw is set to. i don;t think its tuning related as i have spend a good while tweeking both the idle and L screw and as soon as i think its sorted i start the saw later and its idling high again......carb has been cleaned and pressure checked.

whats next?

 

2152

 

a friends saw - he changed the piston and pot for cheap one after seizure, now it runs but trigger response is terrible like you could have a cuppa while waiting for the chain to get up to speed, and again slow to slow down.....doesn;t seem to have any power in the cut neither.....i've just boiled the carb up but suspect this isn;t going to sort it.

suggestions?

 

thanks

[spudulike]

so i have a 345 and a jonny 2152 on the "bench" today...

 

345,

 

starts, runs and cuts fine but seems to have a slightly irratic idle sometimes 4000 rpm sometimes 2800, after revving up it takes a while to get revs down to normal idle speed (but the chain does stop spinning ok.). other symptom is that it pretty much always has to be started on half throttle (even on hot start.) and it wont ever rev over 11000 whatever the H screw is set to. i don;t think its tuning related as i have spend a good while tweeking both the idle and L screw and as soon as i think its sorted i start the saw later and its idling high again......carb has been cleaned and pressure checked.

whats next?

 

2152

 

a friends saw - he changed the piston and pot for cheap one after seizure, now it runs but trigger response is terrible like you could have a cuppa while waiting for the chain to get up to speed, and again slow to slow down.....doesn;t seem to have any power in the cut neither.....i've just boiled the carb up but suspect this isn;t going to sort it.

suggestions?

 

thanks

 

I had a 345 for a few years - great little firewood saw:thumbup: Sounds like lack of fuel - make sure the carb gauze filter is OK, the tank breather also tends to get clagged up a bit and causes the saw to not rev well and die on idle.

 

Just seen you have cleaned the carb - try the breather - next to where the fuel line comes out of the tank!

 

The other one - cheap Chinese kits! Could be anything - check it is making 150+ compression for starters! How did it fail - has the route cause been found?

[njmusk]

Got the Husky 154se off the shelf to give it a run today for a change, wouldnt fire, took the plug out, wet, dried it off, tried again, wet, took top off carb and under the diapraph was laying in fuel, blew out with air line, tried again but plug was wet again, any ideas.

[Eddy_t]

Got the Husky 154se off the shelf to give it a run today for a change, wouldnt fire, took the plug out, wet, dried it off, tried again, wet, took top off carb and under the diapraph was laying in fuel, blew out with air line, tried again but plug was wet again, any ideas.

 

 

Needle valve sticking

[njmusk]

Will have a look at it in morn, left plug out overnight to see if pot dries out. When it runs its a lovelly saw to use all day. Got a 480cd, never had a problem with it, even if it sits for months. Normally use 555 or the jonsered.

[spudulike]

Got the Husky 154se off the shelf to give it a run today for a change, wouldnt fire, took the plug out, wet, dried it off, tried again, wet, took top off carb and under the diapraph was laying in fuel, blew out with air line, tried again but plug was wet again, any ideas.

 

Just to clarify - was the petrol in the cavity formed between the diaphragm and the carb body where the needle valve sits or BETWEEN the diaphragm and steel cover plate - if it is the latter, the carb needs a new carb kit as the diaphragm is holed.

 

Rowena Motors are the guys to contact if you need one - great value and service!

 

If the fuel is in the first suggestion above, this is normal but worth checking the Eddie suggestion on the needle valve.

[spudulike]

Been working on some old Swedish steel, a 480CD, big ole saw with lots of go. It had nipped its piston so have fitted a new one, cleaned and lightly honed the bore to break the glaze, the pressure check and vacuum check were 100% so gave it a clean and set the carb.

 

All is good so if anyone is looking for an old saw in damn good condition, look no further:thumbup:

 

 

[adw]

Re the 357 mod, i use an insert 6mm on the out side 5mm in the centre, so you can still use the original screw, there are a few of these repair inserts in the Husqvarna workshop manuals, even one to repair the plastic threads.