how its not done?

[PeteB]

Gob too small, back to high, too small a saw (more power) should have bored it as well. I always cut mine of at the floor, not waist height.

 

Was it on tube because he was proud, or as a lesson to others. Wassock!

[toprotter]

go to 3.58 im sure he said more stella !

 

Translated at the beginning

' LOOKS MY SAWZ BOUGHT FROM CAR BOOTS IN UKS AND HELMETZ TOO VRY CHEAP, I GO BACK SOON MAN SAYS HE CAN GET ME CHIPPERS TIPPERS ALSO VERY CHEAP "

[Jamie]

The cuts were too high, the gob was fine, he shold have bored into it. calling him a loser etc is a tad excessive, he just needs to be schooled better. If he used correct techniques that saw was a decent enough size. his posture and technique showed a lack of confidence knowledge in what he was doing.

 

does heartrot help towards a barber chair???? i would have thought the lean and the weight of the tree would have been more of a problem.

 

Jamie

[skyhuck]

Many of you keep saying that the reason for the barbers chair is that the cut was to high:confused1:

 

I don't get this, I would not fell at that hight normally, as I want my timber in long lengths for my timber trailer.

 

But I don't see how felling hight contributes to the barbers chair?

 

This one was felled high no problem:001_cool:

[Alasdair]

ok heard people talking about this cut and i was wondering if it was an actual cut and im still wondering.

 

and what is it used for, cause it dont look that safe or was that just that one?

[Jamie]

The cut was too high froma timber point of view, i know its not a major issue in this game however. cut as close to teh ground as possible.

 

Tuppy there was a lot of tension on the stem that is why it split up the centre like that (known as a barber chair). when trees have a lot of front weight or are leaning you need to remove the center part of teh felling cut first (normally by boring in) this leaves the tree attached to teh stump by the hinge and a strap at teh back. some people will cut this strap away using a dog tooth cut (diagonally down) i finish the cut off (its one less cut to make to keep teh stump low / driveable over).

 

in the video the guy never released the tension by boring in hence the barber chain. if you are ever unsure bore in. (at half revs)

 

Jamie

[Alasdair]

so would he not have been better using a dog tooth cut then?

[stoxs]

 

in the video the guy never released the tension by boring in hence the barber chain. if you are ever unsure bore in. (at half revs)

 

Jamie

 

Sorry jamie but reading your post you are saying you should do a bore cut with the saw at half throttle?

 

You do not do a bore cut at half revs!!!!

 

This would increase the chances of kick back on entry and you would struggle to keep the saw going as you are boring!

 

All cuts should be done at full revs

 

appologies if i have read this wrong.

[Jamie]

Tuppy, he should have used that technique, or very similar.

 

Stoxs, i've always been told to bore in at half revs as you are only using one cutter on one side of the bar at any given time.

 

Surely kickback would only occur when you actually use the 'kickback' zone of the nose so i don't agree witht hat comment at all.

 

As for running out of power, well half revs was a bit of a wide ranging statement. I substantially drop the power going through the saw, obviously keeping the saw running and progressing through the cut.

 

I've always been taught that boring at full power increases bar wear and as a result reduces sprocket life (short of going onto solid noses for every saw).

 

Oh and the chain is always razor sharp and i let the saw 'pull itself' into the tree (if that makes sense)

 

any one else commenting on it?

 

Jamie

[stoxs]

MMM good points,

 

I would like to hear from others on this i was taught to do all cuts on full revs as you reduce the chances of the theeth gripping on the wood and exagerating the force which in turn can create kickback.

 

I would use full revs to bore and start by angling saw to use lower part of nose cut in until nose is full into log the turn saw so tip enters the timber.

 

I think wear to the nose sprocket is caused by blunt saws and forcing saw through the timber if you let the saw do the work and keep it sharp it won`t make much diference to the sprocket wear IMO.