Breakaway lanyards

[Craig Johnson]

a break away is quite hard to make as the forces are not alway the same, i dont think the throw line/or carritool break away is that good, it could be too strong if the tree fails slowly or too weak in normal working. the quick realses is a more predictable option, but must be simple and easy to use as importantly as quick, as when you need it it must be second nature.

i have some of those shackes, used for rigging demos so they do release under load, if you want i'll put one in the post.

[softbankhawks]

Paul's diagram shows, normal rigging point, line to limb to be removed, pulley on limb, line up to a craning point then back to rigging point and tied off.

 

Paul this is similar to what we did on Monday on that gopping willow!

 

Hi Paul. Yes, same principle.

[DrewB]

yeah the quick release sailing shackles are good idea, nice thinking mate.

[RobRainford]

If you are worried about the tree splitting as it goes could you add a ratchet strap or two and get them super tight to prevent a split. Then use a normal system underneath but have a short rope to slide off the end.

[ecolojim]

the quick release shackles are good, but what concerns me about those is it still requires 'operator input' to release them. if we're working to worst case scenario, the worst case scenario is that you cant react quickly enough to release it. I would still want a weak link setup of some description, ether instead of, or as well as the quick release. fashion an unjoined ring of mild steel plain fencing wire perhaps, strong enough to position with, but with any appreciable force at all, and it simply opens and lets go

[Steve Bullman]

a break away is quite hard to make as the forces are not alway the same, i dont think the throw line/or carritool break away is that good, it could be too strong if the tree fails slowly or too weak in normal working. the quick realses is a more predictable option, but must be simple and easy to use as importantly as quick, as when you need it it must be second nature.

i have some of those shackes, used for rigging demos so they do release under load, if you want i'll put one in the post.

 

thanks for the offer craig, i fear with the bank holidays though it wont get to me in time

[Treegeek]

Had one of these picked up ot one of the shows Kong Frog ment as a tool clip but could be a quickrelease conector ??

I the past i have used cut offs of bike inner tube that i use to pinch knots on karbs Just an idea

http://www.abaris.co.uk/index.php?main_page=popup_image&pID=382&zenid=g8vuvvd8le602e9po9tjrl1a66'

Edited April 22, 2011 by Treegeek
Cant get liky ting to work

[Tom D]

Velcro...

 

You can buy rolls of the stuff in craft / hardware shops, use a section in your stop. You can experiment with the amount of overlap to get the right amount of breaking force. It should be fairly predictable, better than throw-line.

 

 

 

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk

[testcricket01]

Velcro...

 

You can buy rolls of the stuff in craft / hardware shops, use a section in your stop. You can experiment with the amount of overlap to get the right amount of breaking force. It should be fairly predictable, better than throw-line.

 

 

 

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk

 

best idea by miles so far

[scotspine1]

Hi Paul. Yes, same principle.

 

interesting right enough softbanks, but the same results can be achieved with well placed re-direct rigging pulleys.

 

What you have basically done is moved a block and tackle or a Hobbs/GRCS into the tree, your MA is being created in the tree instead of by a groundie at the base of the tree, you've re-invented the wheel.

 

Be careful you dont rig yourself into a quandry.

 

I used this to great effect on wednesday while re-pollarding an ash. It had busy re-growth and some parts were quote substantial. My rigging point was on the right hand side of the diagram. The stem two in from the left was a little skinny and would have brought the sections down too close to the summer house. I attached a pulley just behind the balance point, the sections would slowly rotate tip down, and ran the linethrough said pulley and tied off on the skinnier lead, but lower down. Taking care to get my (dotted) line right meant that the pieces were brought high, would rotate on release of the hinge and the pulley would slide between in the loop. A double whip style loop.

On larger pieces the groundies could easily pull in the slack beacause of the increased MA.

Hope that makes sense.