Rate My Hinge.

[Ian Flatters]

Ian, how does it help when felling a tree with a full crown? I see no advantage

 

I, when cutting commercially or felling in Arb work, just fell the tree, often utilising the buttresses & if the timber needs to be presented take them off afterwards.

 

 

Just for accuracy, for me personally I prefer it.

[18 stoner]

When you say accuracy Ian, do you mean dressing the hinge due to having flat edges etc, or more accuracy of the fall?

 

I, like Pete can't picture an advantage.

[bansobaby]

I love this banter about buttresses. I know nothing compared to most of you, but when looking at a rotten/ hollow tree, I will trust that the buttress wings have a little bit of integrity.

 

Learning a lot from you all, Thanks!!

[Steve Bullman]

only 2 reasons for removing buttresses as far as im concerned:

 

1. Guide bar too small to fell the tree

2. Dressing out for stacking on a timber lorry

[Joe Newton]

I love this banter about buttresses. I know nothing compared to most of you, but when looking at a rotten/ hollow tree, I will trust that the buttress wings have a little bit of integrity.

 

 

 

Learning a lot from you all, Thanks!!

 

 

A lot of it is for show. So the photos you take look prettier. Also the more cuts you make the more it looks like you're a pro, after all, any twonk can do a gob and back cut.

 

The only time I've ever found it necessary is felling a tree over 3x bar length.

[Spruce Pirate]

When you say accuracy Ian, do you mean dressing the hinge due to having flat edges etc, or more accuracy of the fall?

 

I, like Pete can't picture an advantage.

 

I think accuracy of the fall.

 

It was explained to me thus (by the UK felling champion at the time): In the buttresses of the tree the wood fibres follow the curve of the buttress, whereas in the centre of the tree the fibres are running straight up and down. When the tree falls on the hinge the straight up and down fibres in the centre of the hinge behave (hinge) in a predictable manner as they are straight - therefore the tree will fall straight. The fibres on the outside, in the buttresses, being curved, do not behave in a predictable manner - sometimes they will hinge well, allowing the tree to fall straight, but sometimes they do not and the tree will pull off to one side. To ensure accuracy therefore, cut the toes off.

 

The same principal can work in reverse too: if you want, say a side leaner, to fall straight, do not sever the toe on the holding side.

 

Does that help? I think it would make more sense with either a tree in front of us to look at or a diagram, but I don't have either to hand.

 

Should also add that if there's any doubt about rot in the tree I wouldn't sever the toes - they could be the things holding it up. Production cutting I wouldn't bother either, it's just more time. On a slope, downhill felling to a machine, probably worth it as the tree is more likely to jump off the stump and slide - or at least less likely to be held on the stump by the buttress tearing out (I can't imagine this last scenario crops up that much in an arb environment).

 

As a generalisation I think taking the toes off is more relevant to a conifer fell than a broadleaf, but I stand to be corrected on that one.

[Pete Mctree]

If you are concerned about fibre continuity & straightness then do you set your face further into the stem? At a typical 1/4 or 1/5th they are not likely to be parallel & consist of mainly sapwood, unless of course you cut the buttresses off the front also!

Another point on fibre pull is that a buttress root will pull out of the ground as opposed to a cleaned up stem, which will pull upwards into the timber potentially devaluing it.

Not criticising, just my observations

[Spruce Pirate]

If you are concerned about fibre continuity & straightness then do you set your face further into the stem? At a typical 1/4 or 1/5th they are not likely to be parallel & consist of mainly sapwood, unless of course you cut the buttresses off the front also!

Another point on fibre pull is that a buttress root will pull out of the ground as opposed to a cleaned up stem, which will pull upwards into the timber potentially devaluing it.

Not criticising, just my observations

 

I generally do set a face cut a bit deeper, generally minimum 1/4, but that's just the way I was taught to do it - 1/4 to 1/3 out with the gob. So, yes, I'm further into the stem anyway. What you say makes sense to me, I'm not the font of all knowledge on this, just trying to give a better explanation (as I understand it) of the theory of taking the toes off.

 

Totally valid observation on the fibre pull up the stem.

[Bewarethemoon]

It was a 35ft pole with a back lean. Bore through the middle to have a more friendly hinge. That was my thinking.......(correct me if needs be as I want to learn, plenty out there who have years and years of experience and tips to pass on!!!😀)

 

 

No, not at all. That sounds right to me.

 

I was just being inquisitive 👍🏻

 

Daniel

[18 stoner]

I like your interpretation, except for this part;

 

.

 

 

 

"When the tree falls on the hinge".

 

 

The problem I have with this, and therefore the whole opinion you have explained, is that a decent face cut will allow the hinge to "bend" for adequately long enough that the momentum will of already set the falling position of the tree before the face closes, therefore eliminating the effect of buttress fibres pulling the tree one way or the other.

 

Hope I've explained my thoughts ok.