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Hamas big reduction/pruning thread!


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I'm learning a lot from this thread.

 

Something not touched on is how come some of my reductions (which I think generally look ok just after doing them) differ greatly in, say, 2 years time?

 

Some (honestly!) look great, others are just formless balls of epicormic mess!

 

Same species, same % reduction, same time of year. What's all that about?

 

Regarding re-reducing the same trees (especially if mature), I've always found it tougher because I've lost the high central anchor I used in the first place. Anyone else find this?

 

Looked at a job today, bloke wants 50% height reductions on 8 Hornbeam stems (cuts would be 6" dia, growing points varied between thin and f-all).

 

Wouldn't accept any advice.

 

I didn't want the work to go begging, so what can you do?

 

I've given him your number Dean, alright?:001_tt2:

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I'm learning a lot from this thread.

 

Something not touched on is how come some of my reductions (which I think generally look ok just after doing them) differ greatly in, say, 2 years time?

 

Some (honestly!) look great, others are just formless balls of epicormic mess!

 

Same species, same % reduction, same time of year. What's all that about?

 

Regarding re-reducing the same trees (especially if mature), I've always found it tougher because I've lost the high central anchor I used in the first place. Anyone else find this?

Looked at a job today, bloke wants 50% height reductions on 8 Hornbeam stems (cuts would be 6" dia, growing points varied between thin and f-all).

 

Wouldn't accept any advice.

 

I didn't want the work to go begging, so what can you do?

 

I've given him your number Dean, alright?:001_tt2:

 

maybe your not doing the sides proportionaly to the hieght and hence letting it become a low wide crown as aposed to a narrower form which would lessen the angles of your rope from anchor to the limb walk?

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maybe thats due to the oak having thicker bark, being i) harder for weak buds to penetrate and ii) poorer light penetration of the old bark plates?

 

 

Could it be that oak is less able to produce adventitious buds but relies more on dormant buds?:confused1:

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But you wouldnt get as much epi in the shade, or the stuff would pop up everwhere including tight forks, am i wrong? Epis are more numerous towards the cut ends, why? cos they get the most light, are you with me?:biggrin:

 

I just meant that I think you would have to remove very little to not let a lot more sun into the tree.

 

I dont think that the sun hitting dormant buds triggers them into growing. Surely its just the tree reacting and producing more leaf area and the best p[lace to do that is where the sun is hitting rather than the other way around.Or a combo of both. Otherwise when a limb is removed there would be loads of epicormic where the new hole is in the tree and there usually isnt much regrowth its its a good NTP cut etc.

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I think epicormic growth following pruning has a lot to do with a the reduction in growth regulating hormones which had been released by the removed material. Dormant buds are no longer being supressed by dominant buds. I'm sure light also plays a part too.

 

This is something I'm interested in as I suspect that it might be possible to use semi ring barking of limbs as a tool in retrenchment pruning in some circumstances.

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I think epicormic growth following pruning has a lot to do with a the reduction in growth regulating hormones which had been released by the removed material. Dormant buds are no longer being supressed by dominant buds. I'm sure light also plays a part too.

 

This is something I'm interested in as I suspect that it might be possible to use semi ring barking of limbs as a tool in retrenchment pruning in some circumstances.

 

:thumbup1: Are we all starting to understand eachother! whatever next? do you do a lot of retrenchment pruning gibbon? its an area I would love to do more of, crown retrenchment restoration etc, i mean more on a daily basis as aposed to not having done any!

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