It's why I need some training

[Stubby]

11 hours ago, Chase said:

It wasn't supported at the end so I knew there was considerable tension. That's why I tried to wedge cut it underneath then take it down to the hinge from the top. But I think I went too far up, I.e halfway through from the underside. I think I might have been ok had a gone for more angle and therefore less in. You reckon? 

If it was not supported at the end ( and you are only making fire wood ) then strait down from the top would work with no need for an under cut .

[Stere]

If end is not supported could have just gone straight down from the top

 

Or  only done a small undercut first to stop bark tearing.

 

Gone to far into compression wood and bar got compressed.....

 

[Chase]

Yeah makes sense. Thanks 

[Donnie]

On 08/05/2025 at 23:02, Chase said:

Yeah makes sense. Thanks 

If in doubt and you can read small windblown stems (they’re the easiest to get stuck on) I find putting in a few cuts quite close together can stop you from getting pinched. 
 

It’s probably a rough thing to do, but there’s nothing more annoying than getting stuck

[peds]

I sometimes cut a few lines close together if it isn't an obvious piece to read. I don't much care if it looks rough, as you say, getting stuck sucks.

[Donnie]

21 hours ago, peds said:

I sometimes cut a few lines close together if it isn't an obvious piece to read. I don't much care if it looks rough, as you say, getting stuck sucks.

I also run the saw like a hand saw in big timber too when I’m half way through to ream it out so to speak and it does work well. 

[gand]

When doing stuff like that, it can be handy to have a spare bar and chain. Quick swap and get going again too release the trapped bar

[openspaceman]

10 hours ago, gand said:

When doing stuff like that, it can be handy to have a spare bar and chain. Quick swap and get going again too release the trapped bar

You can do this with an inboard clutch but not much chance with an outboard one.

No need to cut directly above the pinched chain a few inches to the side is alright, just be aware the saw is likely to fall as the stump goes up and the top down, top may land on it.

 

I used to carry a sharp hatchet for the purpose of freeing a stuck saw  as a last resort.

[Donnie]

14 hours ago, openspaceman said:

You can do this with an inboard clutch but not much chance with an outboard one.

No need to cut directly above the pinched chain a few inches to the side is alright, just be aware the saw is likely to fall as the stump goes up and the top down, top may land on it.

 

I used to carry a sharp hatchet for the purpose of freeing a stuck saw  as a last resort.

Always thought about one of those Silky saws or whatever they’re called.

 

 

If in big wood I usually carry an alloy wedge so I can smash it into the cut to open it enough for a plastic wedge and open it more with that. Saves destroying plastic ones. 
 

[gand]

14 hours ago, openspaceman said:

You can do this with an inboard clutch but not much chance with an outboard one.

No need to cut directly above the pinched chain a few inches to the side is alright, just be aware the saw is likely to fall as the stump goes up and the top down, top may land on it.

 

I used to carry a sharp hatchet for the purpose of freeing a stuck saw  as a last resort.

Very true, but as the saw that is in the picture looks like a MS182 or MS212, I thought it would be a good tip as they have an inboard clutch