Chain Bar "Dressing" tool. Is this necessary and used by professionals?

[cjdg]

My mentor told me how to get the burrs off the sides of the chain bar with a flat file. He also showed how o level out the two sides at 90 degrees.  I see on the many videos of maintaining a worn chainsaw bar that a tool is recommended. See the image below.  

Question 1

Is this what professionals use? I have never seen the three guys I know use one.

Question 2 

If so what is recommended model or make? Stihl, Husqi etc whack them out at over £30 but the one below is under £10

Seems a no brainer to go cheaper IF (and I suspect it is not) recommended by the professionals

Chris

[Haironyourchest]

I have the same one, Oregon branded, bought years ago. I use it from time to time, it works but not very well. Fine for taking burrs off the flats, not so effective at leveling the rails. It's difficult to get a file to bite on something like a rail, going with the rail, if you follow me. A better job is a full size quality file and a steady hand, and "draw" the file down the rails. Or better yet, a bench mounted rotary sander, while being mindful of not getting dust in the bar sprocket (stuff with wet tissue or something). Truing the rails properly is a machinist task. If it's an expensive bar, probably worth doing from time to time. If a cheap bar, replace. If one rail has worn down more, the chain will also tip over and the dive links wallow out the inside gap between the rails and new chains will never be held quite right and be liable to tip to one side, causing the uneven wear issue to recur.

[scbk]

You can get them for a few quid on aliexpress

 

https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005006484972990.html

 

I rarely use it, most of the time just a normal file, one end of the bar on the workbench, and at an angle

[Muddy42]

I've never used one.  I generally clean the bar first in soapy water.  Then I use a flat file to take off any burs, then I have a good look for squareness with a mini set square and flatness with a piece of aluminium. I also use a magnetic spirit level on the bar, knowing my vice and workbench are perfectly level. I bang dings with a hammer. Finally once flat, I remove the tracks in the rails where the teeth run.

[Steve Bullman]

I had one, thought it did a good job. I can't imagine the cheapo one has the best quality file on it.

[cjdg]

Thanks all.  I will stick with my eye and a flat file 

Chris

[openspaceman]

1 hour ago, cjdg said:

Thanks all.  I will stick with my eye and a flat file 

Chris

If I'm working and need to remount a bar that has a ridge formed I draw file with the less well worn ends of a round file.

 

I have never used a dressing tool and have been tempted to close a worn groove but never convince I could uniformly overcome the springiness of the steel, so replace bar with new. I have damaged more bars than I have worn out.

[Brushcutter]

I tend to use fancy guildbars that are so hard they don't burr easily. They need a diamond to get close to dressing them. 

 

On the standard bars I use the dressing tool all the time. I really rate it. I've got a vlorbe one, does a great level and being able to put a consistent 45 bevel on the rail edge is nice.

[maybelateron]

I use a flat file for minor burrs. I have found that a larger bar with significant ridging can wear down more than one flat file to sort it properly. Don't all cringe - I have had success with very careful use of small angle grinder.

[spudulike]

Flat file to deburr and a bench grinder with the foot set at an angle to achieve a level grind then flat file to smooth.

When a bar goes well out of kilter, probably best to purchase a new one as the rails may be splayed as well - you can hammer them flat but is a tricky one.