Rigging alternatives

[Joe Newton]

On 29/01/2025 at 12:28, peds said:

 

 

(Are LOLERers allowed to fail functional kit because they personally aren't familiar with it? That's bollocks.)

 

 

 

No, they shouldn't. If you're not familiar with a product then get familiar. Manufacturer manuals are widely available online.

 

I'm not saying it doesn't happen though. 

[MattyF]

Change down a rope diameter or miss a hole Joe.. older dirty wet ropes it will give it a lot more friction too. 
I find you have to be pretty consistent with it loading and it can catch you out either way with not enough or too much if you have not picked it up for a while or your ropes soaking wet. 
 

[Ty Korrigan]

10 hours ago, Mark Bolam said:

I find the whole ‘moving the friction up into the tree’ stuff is bollocks tbh.

 

 I'm not out to be contrary but it works well for me.

Others no doubt say 'learn to tie a knot' rather than use a Notch Rapid Rig.

Putting friction in the crown is old tech, just what natural crotch rigging does to some extent, threading the rope through and over branches adding friction or the guys that put multiple turns around a neighbouring branch or convenient stub for friction before tying off the branch to be cut.

Rigging rope wrench just formalises this and it's smoother to use than wraps around branches.

 

 

 

[peds]

God I love threads like this.

 

As someone with a lot of time logged handling 100kg-200kg loads on a Petzl ID (slow, careful, considerate handling... nothing bouncy...), I'd like someone more experienced to tell me why an ID is an inappropriate choice for any climber-controlled friction in an arb context, assuming obedience to all SWL. 

 

I never have, you understand, but I use them all the time in my other life, and I wonder how applicable one would be in parts of my work.

[Joe Newton]

4 hours ago, peds said:

God I love threads like this.

 

As someone with a lot of time logged handling 100kg-200kg loads on a Petzl ID (slow, careful, considerate handling... nothing bouncy...), I'd like someone more experienced to tell me why an ID is an inappropriate choice for any climber-controlled friction in an arb context, assuming obedience to all SWL. 

 

I never have, you understand, but I use them all the time in my other life, and I wonder how applicable one would be in parts of my work.

What context of use are you talking about for the ID?

[Joe Newton]

6 hours ago, MattyF said:

Change down a rope diameter or miss a hole Joe.. older dirty wet ropes it will give it a lot more friction too. 
I find you have to be pretty consistent with it loading and it can catch you out either way with not enough or too much if you have not picked it up for a while or your ropes soaking wet. 
 

Yeah man I get that. My point was you set the friction from the rigging point,  but then if you need to go significantly heavier/ lighter you'd have to reascend to the rigging point to make adjustments.

 

Totally understand your point about being safer for compromised trees. I prefer to use natural friction with a cheap db rigging line. 

[AHPP]

7 hours ago, Joe Newton said:

 

Regarding the downrigger. You can achieve similar results with a standard PINTO RIG, using the beckett of the pulley. 

Can you post a picture of what you mean please. 

[peds]

57 minutes ago, Joe Newton said:

What context of use are you talking about for the ID?

 

Tie off the piece, remove slack through the ID, lock off, snip piece, lower away.

[5thelement]

6 minutes ago, peds said:

 

Tie off the piece, remove slack through the ID, lock off, snip piece, lower away.

I use one of these for self lowering, rated up to 500kg but tested at 800kg, friction easily adjustable or it can be locked off

Edited February 2 by 5thelement

[5thelement]

2 minutes ago, 5thelement said:

 

Edited February 2 by 5thelement