Best way of Joining automotive wires?

[difflock]

As above, sorting out the rear lights on the 1984 G Wagen. After a boxxix( i.e. not me) "fixed" the rear door, and butchered the loom in the process, so various wires to extend, splice or join.

Anybody want to recommend the best method or product.

I was looking at heat shrink shrouded crimp type connectors on line, but have no idea re reputable brands or suppliers.

 

[GarethM]

New wire, solder and heat shrink.

 

Avoid crimp repairs wherever possible, unless it's crimp plug/sockets on things like Deutsch connectors for lights etc.

 

Even then I tend to solder the crimps as a arse covering exercise.

Edited January 16 by GarethM

[spudulike]

As per Gareth's suggestion, strip the wire ends, slip on shrink wrap, twist the wires together, solder, move heat shrink in to place and heat. 

That should work best.

[difflock]

Thank you both. Soldering would have been my "go to" solution. But always open to new technology.

Now where the back did I stash my shrink wrap sleeves, hmmm?

Edited January 16 by difflock

[openspaceman]

1 hour ago, difflock said:

Thank you both. Soldering would have been my "go to" solution. But always open to new technology.

Now where the back did I stash my shrink wrap sleeves, hmmm?

I haven't kept in touch with modern stuff but soldering used to be deprecated as vibration can cause fatigue failure of soldered joints, so crimps were preferred. Having said that heat shrink must add a bit of strength to the joint.

[GarethM]

7 minutes ago, openspaceman said:

I haven't kept in touch with modern stuff but soldering used to be deprecated as vibration can cause fatigue failure of soldered joints, so crimps were preferred. Having said that heat shrink must add a bit of strength to the joint.

Really?, every amphenol connector I've seen on military equipment was soldered to within an inch of its life.

[Bill C]

Crimp-on-heat shrinks but space then out along the wire, ie not all in one place. As for solder if it's copper wire it works but most wire is now a alloy and it shouldn't be soldered, goes black, breaks or the resistance of the wire changes and if the circuit is ECU controlled it can cause fault code spikes.

[spandit]

Shove a cold bit of hot glue into each end of the heatshrink - it'll make it waterproof. You can buy adhesive lined heatshrink too but it's expensive

[Dan Maynard]

We almost never solder in factory automation, due to vibration concerns, but that is also almost never wet. Solder does quite a good job of keeping water out of the contact area.

 

I've had good success in the past with crimps, wrapped over with self amalgamating tape. Done this since I was a teenager and heatshrink not so widely available (ie at work).

[spandit]

Just now, Dan Maynard said:

We almost never solder in factory automation, due to vibration concerns, but that is also almost never wet. Solder does quite a good job of keeping water out of the contact area.

 

I've had good success in the past with crimps, wrapped over with self amalgamating tape. Done this since I was a teenager and heatshrink not so widely available (ie at work).

I saw some that you shouldn't twist wires when crimping