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Does your ZigZag creak


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I just did a quick Google to be sure, and most people still agree that WD40 is fine on nylon and dyneema climbing gear 👍

 

It does attract dirt though, which could in turn get into your rope, so definitely wipe off the excess.

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19 minutes ago, peds said:

I just did a quick Google to be sure, and most people still agree that WD40 is fine on nylon and dyneema climbing gear 👍

 

It does attract dirt though, which could in turn get into your rope, so definitely wipe off the excess.

This is good to know thanks 

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I was advised to use graphite powder on all metal hardware by a guy that used to do my Lolering.

 

 

Edited by sime42
It seems to work well. With the advantage that it doesn't attract dust and dirt.
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7 hours ago, sime42 said:

I was advised to use graphite powder on all metal hardware by a guy that used to do my Lolering.

 

 

 

I used to know a guy who swore by graphite powder, he was always putting it in his biners, and he had to because they never worked, cos they were full of bloody graphite powder. Never trust anyone who recommends it, they're trying to appear smarter than they are. Ditto wd40, it's solvent based and won't last. 

DMM recommend duck oil as a lubricant, I use Balisto. Both thin oils. 

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With carabiners I find you need something after the hot water, so I usually put a squirt of WD40 in and blow out excess, because thats what I have. It works ok, they don't stick up again.

 

My son uses GT85 on his bikes, and from what he's said that should be better as designed to dry out and leave PTFE layer behind. Never actually tried it, would be interested if anyone has.

 

On the other hand I've just bought a 20l canister of light penetrating oil from Rye Oils, which will be enough for my carabiners for the next 100 years or so.

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2 hours ago, Dan Maynard said:

With carabiners I find you need something after the hot water, so I usually put a squirt of WD40 in and blow out excess, because thats what I have. It works ok, they don't stick up again.

 

My son uses GT85 on his bikes, and from what he's said that should be better as designed to dry out and leave PTFE layer behind. Never actually tried it, would be interested if anyone has.

 

On the other hand I've just bought a 20l canister of light penetrating oil from Rye Oils, which will be enough for my carabiners for the next 100 years or so.

 

I've not tried either but I guess these might work quite well, being dry lubricants.

 

PXL_20241024_191829165.thumb.jpg.e6696f59e20f62355e6eafb41e99245f.jpg

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Are you sure its not your knees?

 

Wd40 is a water dispersant more than an oil - oil wont mix with water but WD40 will become emulsified and hold the water. After rinsing a steel petrol tank with water, a rinse with wd40 will get any remaining water out, for example.

 

For cleaning, light oiling parts and the machining of  aluminium/non ferrous I like to use DP60 which I find works much better than wd40.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KAY9U2U

 

For something like this I have a small bottle with a fine nozzle filled with new engine oil, a few drops of that would protect it well.

 

 

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This is a maintenance doc from Petzl. Looks like wd40 is a no no, machine oil or graphite powder is the recommended lubricant for metal hardware.

From what I've heard graphite powder is a really good lubricant you just need to puff it on, less is more. Too much and it clogs things up.

 

 

entretien-assureurs-descendeurs_EN.pdf

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