Cambium Savers

[krummholz]

13 hours ago, kram said:

Rings from here, tho steel may be over the top. I got them for use as cinching anchors where I didnt want to trust alu but the small is a bit small, and big is too big for that use, so instead have some DMM 34mm alu ones for cinching.

At Height 70kN forged Steel O Ring - Honey Brothers

HONEYBROS.COM

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At Height 70kN forged Steel O Ring from Honey Brothers. The largest equipment specialist in the tree care industry.

 

Alu ones

At Height 25kN Forged Aluminium O Ring - Honey Brothers

HONEYBROS.COM

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At Height 25kN Forged Aluminium O Ring from Honey Brothers. The largest equipment specialist in the tree care industry.

 

 

Yes seen the Stein ones, I think their shorter 90cm one will be about double the length I want. The longer it is, the lower your top anchor becomes on a small stem. I assume that any multiple wraps around the stem makes it non retrievable.

The length of the cambium saver would only be an issue when you're working right up against it at the top, otherwise the effective height of your anchor as regards rope angle etc. remains where the cambium saver is anchored

[Mr. Squirrel]

22 hours ago, krummholz said:

The length of the cambium saver would only be an issue when you're working right up against it at the top, otherwise the effective height of your anchor as regards rope angle etc. remains where the cambium saver is anchored

Longer cambium savers have more sticking potential in my mind too. Somehow though the fimblclimb feels to me like it’s less prone to issues. Maybe it’s a weight thing? 
 

I made this one years ago, about 30cm I think, it could basically only fit round a fairly small final anchor point and that was it. Never got stuck, ever, however talking to professional splicers they didn’t seem convinced by its construction. 

fimblclimb also has the advantage of steel hardware, so you can smack it onto roads. 

[peds]

14 minutes ago, Mr. Squirrel said:

fimblclimb also has the advantage of steel hardware, so you can smack it onto roads. 

 

 

Ah, well hang on. By my understanding steel does not like to be dropped, and is prone to micro fractures as a result, whereas aluminium doesn't mind it quite so much... and according to some vague anecdotal evidence I recall hearing years ago, actually strengthens after one initial drop and bounce on a hard surface...

[Mr. Squirrel]

1 hour ago, peds said:

 

Ah, well hang on. By my understanding steel does not like to be dropped, and is prone to micro fractures as a result, whereas aluminium doesn't mind it quite so much... and according to some vague anecdotal evidence I recall hearing years ago, actually strengthens after one initial drop and bounce on a hard surface...

I’m pretty sure micro fractures are a lie. They definitely are in aluminium, black diamond collected loads of gear from the base of el cap, tested it and found no considerable strength loss, and some items broke at above their rated mbs. So not wholly anecdotal, there was method! 
Regardless, whacking alloy rings into concrete will leave dings and sharp edges. With steel there’s almost no evidence. Except perhaps the broken patio. 

[kram]

Neither material has any issue being dropped. If it lands on concrete and burrs the surface, it will want to be filed smooth before you run another rope through it. All grades used in climbing gear have reasonable ductility. "Micro fractures" is not a term that is used In metallurgy in this sort of context.

 

@Mr. Squirrelthat looks like what I want to make. What did the pro splicers take issue with, the length? I'd probably go a bit longer as it looks a pain to splice it that short, and the central lockstich looks redundant?

 

[Mark Bolam]

I’ve always found rings are a bit numb compared to purpose designed pulley like on the ART Ropeguide.

As soon as I tried one I bought it immediately.

Mine needs replacing now, and they are serious money.

I can’t really justify it because I don’t climb as much these days.

 

The Multisaver might tick a lot of boxes for me.

On longer ascents I’d be on SRT anyway.

[Dan Maynard]

Well I'd say get a multisaver, I've tried pulley and I prefer rings - little bit of friction at the top makes descent easier to control as it takes load off the knot.

 

Also the ropeguide puts the pulley right on the stem so depending on branches rope can be free in one position but rubbing as you move round. Set the multisaver long and the friction point comes away from the stem and stays consistent, when you go back up just shorten it on the prussic.

 

But as you say, on bigger trees I've switched to SRT so the friction is completely consistent wherever I go.

[Mr. Squirrel]

5 hours ago, kram said:

 

 

@Mr. Squirrelthat looks like what I want to make. What did the pro splicers take issue with, the length? I'd probably go a bit longer as it looks a pain to splice it that short, and the central lockstich looks redundant?

 

Yeah it sounds like exactly what you want, I loved it, but I saw the light. My point was the fimblclimb is the next best thing in my view. It was a dodgy ass splice which you’ll never see in a book. 
 

Pulleysavers/ropeguide is great but not everywhere. I wouldn’t want to try and retrieve one from the top of a 40m fir for instance.