Band blades for Norwood / Lumbermate LM29 ???

[Whoppa Choppa]

Thank you All for your input, will definitely follow up the suggestions 👍. And report back 😀

[Whoppa Choppa]

EPS 👎 have sent back a few - inc a Ripper 37 🤣

[Whoppa Choppa]

Ok. BN Ripper 37 - not bad. Got about a day out of it before accuracy dropped off... Cutting softwood (larch). Cheaper to use new blades than resharpened ones that wreck your log and or boards that then need thicknessing or planing... 

[Johnsond]

3 hours ago, Whoppa Choppa said:

Ok. BN Ripper 37 - not bad. Got about a day out of it before accuracy dropped off... Cutting softwood (larch). Cheaper to use new blades than resharpened ones that wreck your log and or boards that then need thicknessing or planing... 

As a few have already stated getting someone who knows what they are doing ain’t easy , that includes saw doctors. I do my own now which yields far better results. Pointless having a top notch sawmill and crap blades. Tegid does a great job, it was only the cost and hassle of sending blade’s from Aberdeenshire that stopped me just carrying o using him. His advice regards what route to take with the sharpening and setting kit I have now was invaluable. 
Im changing blades2-3 times a day minimum by the way, often a lot more. 

[doobin]

5 hours ago, Johnsond said:

Im changing blades2-3 times a day minimum by the way, often a lot more. 

I concur. By 'accuracy dropped off' I assume OP meant 'finished cut looks like a washboard'- especially on softwood, and I'd have a sore shoulder from forcing them through too.

 

I treat my saw blades like my chainsaw chains. When they stop cutting easily, I swap them for a sharp one. On a wet day I enjoy a medative morning sharpening my chains and bands.

 

£400 investment in a Ripper 37 profiled CBN wheel and the basic Oregon grinder pays for itself quickly if you're otherwise just buying new Ripepr 37s at £40 each. Ten days to be precise!🤣

 

Figures from memory but can't be far off.

 

[Rob D]

2 hours ago, doobin said:

I concur. By 'accuracy dropped off' I assume OP meant 'finished cut looks like a washboard'- especially on softwood, and I'd have a sore shoulder from forcing them through too.

 

I treat my saw blades like my chainsaw chains. When they stop cutting easily, I swap them for a sharp one. On a wet day I enjoy a medative morning sharpening my chains and bands.

 

£400 investment in a Ripper 37 profiled CBN wheel and the basic Oregon grinder pays for itself quickly if you're otherwise just buying new Ripepr 37s at £40 each. Ten days to be precise!🤣

 

Figures from memory but can't be far off.

 

 

 

Don't you have to also 'set' the teeth as well as sharpening? - is that an easy process - not even sure it's a necessary process but I heard that's what bandsaw blades needed. I think it means the teeth need to be slightly off center going left and right.

[GarethM]

32 minutes ago, Rob D said:

Don't you have to also 'set' the teeth as well as sharpening? - is that an easy process - not even sure it's a necessary process but I heard that's what bandsaw blades needed. I think it means the teeth need to be slightly off center going left and right.

Thought that was the difference between bow saw blades I've bought.

 

Green wood are offset and dry ones aren't.

Edited May 15 by GarethM

[Johnsond]

1 hour ago, Rob D said:

 

 

Don't you have to also 'set' the teeth as well as sharpening? - is that an easy process - not even sure it's a necessary process but I heard that's what bandsaw blades needed. I think it means the teeth need to be slightly off center going left and right.

You do absolutely 

it makes a huge difference when done correctly 

[dan blocker]

Spurside Sawworks Ross on Wye do an excellent job on circular and bandsaw blades if your in that region🤔