3120xp milling query

[stewmo]

hi folks

 

Felled a more or less dead Beech today and the customer would like to mill the stem. It's pretty decent.....nearly 3' at the base and 2' at the top. Access isn't great so it's probably in the balance to use a chainsaw versus someone coming to pick it up take to the mill and then return with the boards.

 

I've only milled smaller stems for fun really with my 576 (ported) and the small log mill.

 

I have a 3120xp and wondering on getting setup with this saw to do this job. Of course would like to use what I have but.....

 

I have 36" and 42" bars for the 3120, but they are hard nose bars. My thoughts are this could be problematic for milling. Should I buy a sprocket nosed bar? 

Then it will be hmmm 36 or 42" bar.....

 

If yes, then should I stick with .404 so don't have to fiddle about with changing sprockets? 

 

 

Thanks for your time!

[woody paul]

Just get a 42'' bar with sprocket, you will need at to cut 36'' butt.

[Puffingbilly413]

For that size you can run a 48" lo pro bar and chain which makes life easier - thinner kerf and smoother , easier cuttinf. Any larger and you'd be on 404 anyway I reckon. You'd need a 3/8 lo pro 7 tooth  sprocket from memory.

 

Bear in mind the location of the chain tension screw on a 3120. Makes it a pain to adjust when milling - and you'll need to do a bit of that. That said, if it's only the one log then maybe you can put up with that.

[Muddy42]

I prefer sprocket nose bars, but hard nosed work fine too, 42" is a doddle. Personally Id try and do the job for the minimal additional cost, so Id use the .404 42" bar. Sharp chain go slow and it'll be fine. I use chain sharpened at a normal cross cut angle, again to keep things simple. I've never felt a 120cc chainsaw to be underpowered and I mill mostly oak.  Depending on the width of your chainsaw mill and whether you have felling spikes, you may need to take a few inches off the butt to get an easy cut.

 

You don't mention if you have a chainsaw mill already but if not I have a cheap eco mill that is fine for occasional jobs.  I would definitely rig up some type of aux oiler, there are cheap ones available that just dribble onto the bar nose, again fine for occasional jobs. I use lots of oil, any oil will do for the aux oiler. 

[stewmo]

On 05/04/2024 at 14:14, Muddy42 said:

I prefer sprocket nose bars, but hard nosed work fine too, 42" is a doddle. Personally Id try and do the job for the minimal additional cost, so Id use the .404 42" bar. Sharp chain go slow and it'll be fine. I use chain sharpened at a normal cross cut angle, again to keep things simple. I've never felt a 120cc chainsaw to be underpowered and I mill mostly oak.  Depending on the width of your chainsaw mill and whether you have felling spikes, you may need to take a few inches off the butt to get an easy cut.

 

You don't mention if you have a chainsaw mill already but if not I have a cheap eco mill that is fine for occasional jobs.  I would definitely rig up some type of aux oiler, there are cheap ones available that just dribble onto the bar nose, again fine for occasional jobs. I use lots of oil, any oil will do for the aux oiler. 

 

Thanks yeah, having thought it through some more and what you have all said I think I'm in Muddy42's camp. I have a friend who can lend me the mill to have a play. So go with what I have got and see how I fare. A 42" bar and chain these days is something chronic to be paying out for not much cause.....CHEERS!

[gobbypunk]

Where in the country are you if you are near North Dorset I would be happy to come and help I have an 880 with a 4 ft hardnosed bar and a slightly shorter Sugi sprocket nosed bar both running 404 

[Will C]

404 is fine but I would recommend buying a ripping chain, you will get a smother cut and use less fuel in my experience. Also how old are your bars? Chain wonder from uneven bar rails can cause issues when milling 

[Muddy42]

3 hours ago, Will C said:

404 is fine but I would recommend buying a ripping chain, you will get a smother cut and use less fuel in my experience. Also how old are your bars? Chain wonder from uneven bar rails can cause issues when milling 

I tried ripping chain but didnt get on with it. I mostly cut oak and found ripping chain less good at coping with knotty, change of direction grainy bits. But maybe it was just me.

 

Good sharpening practice, not forcing the saw and avoiding ‘sawing’ the bar side to side, helps keep the cut smooth.