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Warped Grate Bars


Mauser
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Having learned the expensive way about over fireing my Aarrow Stratford SC55 MF burner and warping my grate bars twice while burning logs I need to get a decent thermometer and clear the ash bin more frequently but my problem re the thermometer is that the flue goes out the back of the fire horizontally so I cannot attach a thermometer to it, ( I could but wouldn’t be able to read it easily ). The places that sell these thermometers say that in my case just to put  it on the front of the fire but surely they should read the flue temp shouldn’t they or am I over thinking this ?

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If I can take it out of the fire box it is a consumable. Some more frequent (fire bricks) than others (grate). Mine are warping nicely just now too but not burnt through yet (they did before - pet coke did them in I think) (10 years later, 4th set of fire bricks this year, 2nd baffle plate, 2nd grate, 2nd glass). Grate will get too hot if it can't get air through it I reckon.

 

Might be that you can fasten it to the flu, let it get hot take it off and quickly read what it says - then put in on the stove where you can read it, let it stabilise, note both temperatures - so perhaps at 200 degree flu, front of stove says 180, repeat you should find a reasonable link between the 2. I think on my thermometer I could loosen and turn the dial, if you can then spin the dial round so it shows approximate flue temperature from stove top temperature. Should be close.

 

Or... as I do...when Mrs P takes her hoody off, I am burning the grate.

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On my stove (not an arrow) a Stovax Stovepipe Thermometer gives same reading on pipe, side of stove (near the top) as well as on the top of stove, I haven't tried the door as it's too narrow but probably the same reading I expect.  I have two of those Stovax Stovepipe Thermometers and have had them on the stove at the same time and they give the same reading but the stove pipe is the best place I find on my stove to read it.

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You could get get one of the cabled digital thermometers the type that are used on the likes of bbq’s.

I have the probe stainless steel cable tied onto my stove pipe work. It is either 250 or 300 deg C it goes up to, but as mine has a back boiler on it I struggle to get any serious heat into the flue pipe when burning wood, although every now and again I will do a coal burn if it is very cold and or it is time to give the fire box, pipework and chimney a good roasting.

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5 hours ago, Steven P said:

If I can take it out of the fire box it is a consumable. Some more frequent (fire bricks) than others (grate). Mine are warping nicely just now too but not burnt through yet (they did before - pet coke did them in I think) (10 years later, 4th set of fire bricks this year, 2nd baffle plate, 2nd grate, 2nd glass). Grate will get too hot if it can't get air through it I reckon.

 

Might be that you can fasten it to the flu, let it get hot take it off and quickly read what it says - then put in on the stove where you can read it, let it stabilise, note both temperatures - so perhaps at 200 degree flu, front of stove says 180, repeat you should find a reasonable link between the 2. I think on my thermometer I could loosen and turn the dial, if you can then spin the dial round so it shows approximate flue temperature from stove top temperature. Should be close.

 

Or... as I do...when Mrs P takes her hoody off, I am burning the grate.


My warning is when Mrs Ed takes her shirt off. Time to damp down the fire then I suppose, but you know, what else so you have a bearskin rug in front of the fire for?

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20 minutes ago, dan blocker said:

Always leave a good layer of ash in the grate to help protect the grate from extreme heat.

Exactly. Empty the ash less frequently, let it build up to cover the bars and they won't get too hot. Wood doesn't need air coming up through it at all.

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