Husqvarna 550 XPG mark 2 questions

[steffenland]

Hi,

 

On a 550 XPG with a 15inch bar, whats the difference between the 1,3 and 1,5mm wide chains/bar?

 

A thing that got me puzzled, Ive put the chain on this and other saws thousands of times and I know I got enough of a routine for it to tell that somethings wrong. This season it seems like the sprocket got too much travel so that the chain teeth (on the back of the chain) get stuck either under or over the sprocket when I screw down the cover, getting the chain to fit in the center of the sprocket takes like multiple tries and I remember just having to jiggle it in there. Any ideas? 

[Stubby]

7 hours ago, steffenland said:

Hi,

 

On a 550 XPG with a 15inch bar, whats the difference between the 1,3 and 1,5mm wide chains/bar?

 

A thing that got me puzzled, Ive put the chain on this and other saws thousands of times and I know I got enough of a routine for it to tell that somethings wrong. This season it seems like the sprocket got too much travel so that the chain teeth (on the back of the chain) get stuck either under or over the sprocket when I screw down the cover, getting the chain to fit in the center of the sprocket takes like multiple tries and I remember just having to jiggle it in there. Any ideas? 

Sounds like you have the wrong pitch ?  Or your sprocket rim is badly worn .

[pleasant]

1.3mm and 1.5mm is the thickness of the drive link that sits in the groove of the bar. It may not sound a lot of difference and both will sit in the groove when cold, but as the chain rotates through use, the metal bar and chain will get hot and hot metal expands-this will cause a 1.5mm drive link fitted to a 1.3mm bar groove to jam and either simply lock up or throw the chain. 

 

Edited January 10 by pleasant

[adw]

The 550xp would have/should have been supplied with a 1.5/058 .325 bar.

[5thelement]

Have you derailed the chain and burred up the drivelinks?
Both the 1.3 and 1.5 gauge chain would fit in the standard .325 drive sprocket without issue, only the bar groove/nose sprocket would matter, bar groove and drive link thickness (gauge) need to be compatible.

[spudulike]

The rim floats in and out on the sprocket, this is normal and you just need care when fitting a chain on to the sprocket. It is very possible to get the chain down between the sprocket and rim or rim and crankcase on most rim drive machines unless care is taken.

[steffenland]

Hi,

 

I was wondering about the practical difference is between the 1,3 and 1,5mm wide chains/bar?

1,5mm is stronger but 1,3mm runs easier on long bars?

 

Sprocket rim look ok.

When I manage to get the chain on it runs fine, but when trying to fit the chain its like the sprocket got too much travel up and down that axle and the chain keep getting stuck over or under the sprocket. My normal method is to press the bar against the saw so it lays flat and then jiggle the chain a bit, now its like a whole study, last time I had to use a screwdriver to lift the sprocket up while I was jiggeling the chain.

 

Im replacing the bar, chain and sprocket.

[5thelement]

7 hours ago, steffenland said:

Hi,

 

I was wondering about the practical difference is between the 1,3 and 1,5mm wide chains/bar?

1,5mm is stronger but 1,3mm runs easier on long bars?

 

Sprocket rim look ok.

When I manage to get the chain on it runs fine, but when trying to fit the chain its like the sprocket got too much travel up and down that axle and the chain keep getting stuck over or under the sprocket. My normal method is to press the bar against the saw so it lays flat and then jiggle the chain a bit, now its like a whole study, last time I had to use a screwdriver to lift the sprocket up while I was jiggeling the chain.

 

Im replacing the bar, chain and sprocket.

Stop lying the chainsaw on its side, the bar tends to move and slip around more.

Sit it flat on its base then put the bar on against the machine, with the tensioner turned right back.
There is always been play on the rim/sprocket, you just have to position the chain in the sprocket, not behind it or in front of it, I can’t explain it any simpler.

[Dan Maynard]

8 hours ago, steffenland said:

I was wondering about the practical difference is between the 1,3 and 1,5mm wide chains/bar?

There are different kinds of 1.3mm chain, so depends. 

 

In old money 1.3 is 0.050, more popular in the US apparently where you get 3/8 .050 chain. Basically the same as .058 chain, just use a compatible set.

 

More modern .050 chains have been made which are narrower, Oregon call this Speedcut, Stihl rapid micro. The principle of these is that cutting out less wood uses less power so you can cut faster.

 

I don't know the dates or choice as never bought a 550 but Stihl made this switch over to Light04 bars on the 261 which I think was after Husky brought out the SP33 chain

Rapid Micro 3 Pro (RM3) - For .325" | STIHL

WWW.STIHL.CO.UK

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Minimum-vibration saw chain, high cut quality, sturdy, and low chatter. The new high-performance saw...

 

[steffenland]

Thanks!

When I got it on the bench I put it on the side, when im in the forrest I change it standing. My point is that I know how its done and something wasent right, I changed the bar, sprocket and chain and the saw is back to normal.

 

I did use the saw to remove a tree stump last year and I think the sand in the stump messed up something more than the chain, the old sprocket seemed a bit wiggely and worn out on the inside?