Positive input ventilation

[Squaredy]

5 hours ago, Muddy42 said:

 

Interesting video.  He basically says he has carried out loads of steps to reduce the humidity in his home, most of which are common sense, but even with the PIV unit humidity still high.  I will check when I have finished my bath what the humidity levels are in my thirties house which has several roof leaks and penetrating damp but a wood burner lit daily.

 

I also found it an interesting concept that he says blowing unheated air into his house would somehow lower his heating bills!

[Squaredy]

1 hour ago, Squaredy said:

Interesting video.  He basically says he has carried out loads of steps to reduce the humidity in his home, most of which are common sense, but even with the PIV unit humidity still high.  I will check when I have finished my bath what the humidity levels are in my thirties house which has several roof leaks and penetrating damp but a wood burner lit daily.

 

I also found it an interesting concept that he says blowing unheated air into his house would somehow lower his heating bills!

I have six hygrometers in my house, all giving humidity of about 50%.  Guess I don’t need a PIV system then!

[openspaceman]

21 minutes ago, Squaredy said:

I have six hygrometers in my house, all giving humidity of about 50%.  Guess I don’t need a PIV system then!

53% in hallway at 16C and 40% in sitting room at 19C here. We do have a mould patch inside the front door caused by a winter jasmine wall plant which I like so put up with a dark spot no one can see.

 

My topdon android attachment is a cheap way of spotting cold spots.

[Ashbrooke]

I've got the same issue with a cold wall/ceiling with condensation. We are about to insulate with kingspan under current ceiling/wall and overboard. Don't think we will miss the 4 inches of room and should solve the cold spots. 

[Muddy42]

Its a tricky one.  Modern living (e.g. running water, showers and frequent washing clothes) makes more airborne moisture than old houses were ever designed for.  These houses have often then been insulated badly, I hate cavity wall insulation. Then modern houses are basically sealed tin cans which don't let water out.  Powerful extractor fans help (often an upgrade as the standard ones are less powerful and wear out) but a big hot wood stove run on free dry wood every night irons out a lot of water issues.

[Stere]

I reckon houses should have purpose built airing cuboards  or drying rooms.

 

Nice Idea From the Past: The Airing Cupboard

WWW.TREEHUGGER.COM

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Keep your linen warm and toasty with a traditional British technique.

 

 

 

[openspaceman]

14 hours ago, Ashbrooke said:

I've got the same issue with a cold wall/ceiling with condensation. We are about to insulate with kingspan under current ceiling/wall and overboard. Don't think we will miss the 4 inches of room and should solve the cold spots. 

I am worried about doing this on our coombed (sloping) ceilings with only rafters and tiles above in case moisture gets to the lath and plaster and rots the laths.

 

How will you fix the insulation boards and will they already have plasterboard attached?

 

Here is a picture showing how the curtains have acquired the air temperature of the room and the top shows the flat part of the ceiling where I have insulated above with 100mm rockwool (dark spots show where I failed to reach) and the ceiling joist show as darker lines so I should add some more above them.

 

The main point is the coombed part where the  rafters here show up as being less lossy than the dark area between them. Also note the dark horizontal line showing a cold bridge where the rafters meet the solid wall.

 

[Conner]

6 hours ago, Muddy42 said:

Its a tricky one.  Modern living (e.g. running water, showers and frequent washing clothes) makes more airborne moisture than old houses were ever designed for.  These houses have often then been insulated badly, I hate cavity wall insulation. Then modern houses are basically sealed tin cans which don't let water out.  Powerful extractor fans help (often an upgrade as the standard ones are less powerful and wear out) but a big hot wood stove run on free dry wood every night irons out a lot of water issues.

I actually think the stove blazing away in the living room down stairs had made the problem worse. No heating on upstairs when stove is on so colder for longer in the bedrooms. Wouldn’t go back to the heating though as cool in bed and free wood 🤣

[openspaceman]

4 hours ago, Conner said:

I actually think the stove blazing away in the living room down stairs had made the problem worse. No heating on upstairs when stove is on so colder for longer in the bedrooms. Wouldn’t go back to the heating though as cool in bed and free wood 🤣

How so? A 5kW wood stove will be evacuating  around 6m3 of air out of the house  every hour and up the chimney and taking any moisture with it.

Edited January 26, 2023 by openspaceman
added per hour

[Conner]

Just for info the bedroom which is the worst is furthest from the stove. Two outside walls. Crap cavity wall insulation conned by the free scheme in the 2000, 

gable facing the wind. 
always a bit colder but ok. 
I have recently replaced the plastic cladding on the bathroom ceiling always condensed the steam from a bath or shower. As the cladding had a void above as ceiling lowered to fit lights used the bubble rap insulation sold in Screwfix. Ceiling condensation reduced a lot so happy days.