550xp mkii needle bearing conundrum

[5thelement]

4 minutes ago, pleasant said:

That's fine........but I see about 6 a year needing new cranks or seized bearings

I mostly only use Husqvarna, all my modern saws have a grease point in the stub. Maybe they need to grease them more regularly then to prevent problems occurring?

Edited November 11, 2022 by 5thelement

[pleasant]

1 minute ago, 5thelement said:

Maybe they need to grease them regularly then?

Seized bearings due to the build up of detritus attracted by the grease.....not as a result of none being there.

[5thelement]

1 minute ago, pleasant said:

Seized bearings due to the build up of detritus attracted by the grease.....not as a result of none being there.

So they never change or clean the bearings, just keep adding grease, there’s the problem then.

[pleasant]

1 minute ago, 5thelement said:

So they never change or clean the bearings, just keep adding grease, there’s the problem then.

Yes, ok

[stewmo]

2 hours ago, peatff said:

 

Vice grip slide hammer.

Good idea. 
Going to need a big vise grip!

[stewmo]

On 08/11/2022 at 19:30, spudulike said:

I guess you have measured the crank diameter where the bearing runs compared to where it doesn't, inspected the crank surface it for pitting and checked the drum bearing surface for pitting and wear. I see you said the clutch has been replaced so that should discount this as the problem.

Lubrication shouldn't be an issue as the grease tends to just fly out on the first run but wear in the components may well cause issues.

Yeah we debated this clutch issue in this thread….18 months ago….

 

So clutch, drum and bearing all got swopped out then. So not long ago really considering. 
I don’t believe it’s a lubrication issue.

I will check crank for wear. 
 

[spudulike]

8 hours ago, stewmo said:

Good idea. 
Going to need a big vise grip!

Just use a puller, two or three leg and the end of the crank should have a recessed hole in the end to make it easier!

The crank bearing surface may be damaged so worth inspecting as is the drum bearing surface.

[Mark_Skyland]

11 hours ago, stewmo said:

Trying to get the drum off the needle bearing and shaft.

Absolutely no movement whatsoever. Guess as the bearing has failed spectacularly it has wedged itself between shaft and drum. 
Any ideas for removal? I’m stumped. 

Thanks for all the comments 

Sounds like a bit of a nightmare. I would remove the starter cover and lock the flywheel, holding it will probably do. Then try twisting the drum backwards and forwards while pulling on it. I've had the odd seized bearings over the years but they come off in the end with a bit of brute force. The worm wheel may have melted which could be causing the problem.

 

 

[Trailoftears]

12 hours ago, stewmo said:

Trying to get the drum off the needle bearing and shaft.

Absolutely no movement whatsoever. Guess as the bearing has failed spectacularly it has wedged itself between shaft and drum. 
Any ideas for removal? I’m stumped. 

Thanks for all the comments 

Either pump pliers or better still molegrips clamped to the sprocket.Lift the whole saw if poss on the molegrips+a few gentle taps around the drum area with a rubber mallet!?

[Trailoftears]

Tiz an odd problem this,given you've now replaced the bearing a few times,without being insulting,have they all been exactly the same diameter+height of the original?Tho no doubt the original is just a fond memory!Are they original parts via dealer(s)?