Looking to get into forestry.

[drinksloe]

If u have a contact and been offered work i'd ask wot they'd advise saw wise, or wot size of tree they normally handle? Even ask wot size/model their harvesters mainly are as that will effect the size of tree there leaving behind

If they do mainly 1st thinnings and like them brashed then ur 50cc would be a better choice as u will be doing more light saw work.

 

If there just doing clearfells with no brashing  and mainly on bigger timber might depend wot part of scot ur in ( esp if u were following say a tigercat, they take some big ruff trees, unbelievable really wot they can handle) u might be better going straight to a 70cc+ saw as it takes a big ugly mother to be to big for a tigercat esp if its got 1 of the larger heads on it..

 

Th price difference isn't that much but it then becomes a heavy saw for doing any lighter work.

A 60cc is a decent enough compromise still a wee bit heavy for some jobs and a wee bit under powered for real big hairy stuff but can cope wit the vast majority of work.

 

I'd 2nd wot others have said esp if u mean to be on the saw full time support ur local dealers, when u have a breakdown they will look after u, and u will need that when starting off esp if ur only running 1 or 2 saws.

 

I used to be a husky man but not any more, althou u do get a 2 yr warranty on a husk ( they bloody need them thou)

1 big advantage the small stihls do have over huskys for forestry work is internal clutches, means when u get ur saw stuck in a tree/log ( and u will!!!!!!) a simple job to take power head off and put ur spare bar and chain on u keep in ur piece bag on and cut urself out in minutes rather than the long walk back to van for a spare saw. Small huskys are a nightmare to get bar and chain off when stuck in a tree, so much so i rarely bother to carry a spare bar for them now.

 

That is my top tip for u, buy a 2nd bar and chain and carry it with u, saves the walk of shame back to van and then having to carry 2 saws back at the end of day, bloody nightmare.

I tend to buy an extra bar cover/sheath and slide bar and chain in it so a simple job of picking the right sheath for the saw and almost always got a spare bar and chain with me.

[drinksloe]

Just to add if u have been offered some work ask the min tickets they need u to have.

Get wot u need even if u could bororw a saw of them (u'd have to know them pretty well for that thou) some saw shops may even hire a saw out.

 

Do a few shifts see if u like the job before u jack ur own job in ( esp if u have a trade, althou being in engineering if u can weld/fix stuff would be a very handy skill in forestry esp if u ever progress onto machines) see if u like it 1st esp in the cold p@@@iing rain at this time of year or midge, cleggs and heat wearing cutting trousers throu summer.

 

The job itself is good but hard, the walking in with ur gear is still a bugger and the worst part of it

BUT it is all the other crap that goes with it nowadays a host of folk (foresters, machine ops, contractors/bosses) often making ur job harder throu having no understanding of hand cutting.

Nowadays most foresters will be straight out of uni and never worked the tools ever, and most bosses or machine ops now have really only sat in driver seats.

My pet hate is when u have to spend 5 mins cutting crap away form the base of a tree that machine ops have actually piled there and driven past it loads of times knowing fine well a cutter has to fell that tree.

Or the lack of notice phoneing/texting night before needing u the next day

 

Ex saw men on machines always look out for that sort of thing and have everything cleared, or would never put stuff there in 1st place and tend to give u a bit of notice.

The really good 1's have the foresight to look at the weather forecast for wind direction in advance phone u a week or so in front trees to fell next week got an east wind forecast for next wed etc and u work around the wind. And often will harvest around the hand cut areas 1st/well early to give u heaps of time to get the job done when the wind suits without holding them up at the very end of the job

But those good operators are very rare now and retiring every year

[Donnie]

7 hours ago, drinksloe said:

If u have a contact and been offered work i'd ask wot they'd advise saw wise, or wot size of tree they normally handle? Even ask wot size/model their harvesters mainly are as that will effect the size of tree there leaving behind

If they do mainly 1st thinnings and like them brashed then ur 50cc would be a better choice as u will be doing more light saw work.

 

If there just doing clearfells with no brashing  and mainly on bigger timber might depend wot part of scot ur in ( esp if u were following say a tigercat, they take some big ruff trees, unbelievable really wot they can handle) u might be better going straight to a 70cc+ saw as it takes a big ugly mother to be to big for a tigercat esp if its got 1 of the larger heads on it..

 

Th price difference isn't that much but it then becomes a heavy saw for doing any lighter work.

A 60cc is a decent enough compromise still a wee bit heavy for some jobs and a wee bit under powered for real big hairy stuff but can cope wit the vast majority of work.

 

I'd 2nd wot others have said esp if u mean to be on the saw full time support ur local dealers, when u have a breakdown they will look after u, and u will need that when starting off esp if ur only running 1 or 2 saws.

 

I used to be a husky man but not any more, althou u do get a 2 yr warranty on a husk ( they bloody need them thou)

1 big advantage the small stihls do have over huskys for forestry work is internal clutches, means when u get ur saw stuck in a tree/log ( and u will!!!!!!) a simple job to take power head off and put ur spare bar and chain on u keep in ur piece bag on and cut urself out in minutes rather than the long walk back to van for a spare saw. Small huskys are a nightmare to get bar and chain off when stuck in a tree, so much so i rarely bother to carry a spare bar for them now.

 

That is my top tip for u, buy a 2nd bar and chain and carry it with u, saves the walk of shame back to van and then having to carry 2 saws back at the end of day, bloody nightmare.

I tend to buy an extra bar cover/sheath and slide bar and chain in it so a simple job of picking the right sheath for the saw and almost always got a spare bar and chain with me.

I'll be most def buying spares and keeping a stock pile in the van when I get one. I'll probably be looking at spending about 800-900 on my first saw so I think I should be covered for most things. I know it might be a bit heavy for the work but as time goes on I'll want to build up a range of different saws. Good tip on the spare bar and chain. If you boys ever get a minute could you send me a photo on here or private of like your tool kit you take out with you every day? It'd be quite interesting to see. 
 

I think the company has a lot of new Harvesters like John Deere's (done a quick google and it came up the 1470). 
 

I will 100 percent be getting my saw out of my local dealer for sure as it's only 7 miles from me. 

[Donnie]

7 hours ago, drinksloe said:

Just to add if u have been offered some work ask the min tickets they need u to have.

Get wot u need even if u could bororw a saw of them (u'd have to know them pretty well for that thou) some saw shops may even hire a saw out.

 

Do a few shifts see if u like the job before u jack ur own job in ( esp if u have a trade, althou being in engineering if u can weld/fix stuff would be a very handy skill in forestry esp if u ever progress onto machines) see if u like it 1st esp in the cold p@@@iing rain at this time of year or midge, cleggs and heat wearing cutting trousers throu summer.

 

The job itself is good but hard, the walking in with ur gear is still a bugger and the worst part of it

BUT it is all the other crap that goes with it nowadays a host of folk (foresters, machine ops, contractors/bosses) often making ur job harder throu having no understanding of hand cutting.

Nowadays most foresters will be straight out of uni and never worked the tools ever, and most bosses or machine ops now have really only sat in driver seats.

My pet hate is when u have to spend 5 mins cutting crap away form the base of a tree that machine ops have actually piled there and driven past it loads of times knowing fine well a cutter has to fell that tree.

Or the lack of notice phoneing/texting night before needing u the next day

 

Ex saw men on machines always look out for that sort of thing and have everything cleared, or would never put stuff there in 1st place and tend to give u a bit of notice.

The really good 1's have the foresight to look at the weather forecast for wind direction in advance phone u a week or so in front trees to fell next week got an east wind forecast for next wed etc and u work around the wind. And often will harvest around the hand cut areas 1st/well early to give u heaps of time to get the job done when the wind suits without holding them up at the very end of the job

But those good operators are very rare now and retiring every year

Yeah I see what you mean, I'm sure I'll get all to familiar with that when I start which will hopefully be by the summer.

 

On a days cutting, roughly how much are you spending a day on bar oil, two stroke and petrol? 

[Donnie]

Even if you guys could show me your van lay out too that'd be sweet. I know it's personal for posting online if you don't want to but I'd like to get an idea as to what I'm going to need when completely set up. 
 

I'm thinking of financing a Berlingo when I get going. 

Edited November 21, 2021 by JDon

[Stubby]

Ok . some different scenarios ... There you are striding out to the site with your big saw on your shoulder your smaller saw in your left hand , tool belt small axe etc etc a bit of stubble on your face , a couple of neck rolls , fire her up and you are into wood .  Or , its pissing down , cold rain , steep bank lots of slippery wet poles from previous thinning , although its cold you are still sweating you fire her up and you are into wood . Or ( down south maybe not Scotland )  its 28 - 30c  the sun is beating down again you are sweating light bulbs drinking water all day but never having a piss ( one gallon of water weighs 10lbs and you got to carry it )  being eaten alive by this and that , you fire her up and you are into wood .   Your knees , hips forearms , shoulders and lower back take a hammering . You get home wondering if you managed to break even , get in the shower ( you really should be giving your saws a once over but fcuk that ) come down stairs , have a bit to eat and fall asleep watching the news . In the morning you wake up thinking you must have been wrestling polar bears but you godda do it all again tomorrow . Don't want to be the angel of doom but it can be like this . I think the ideal hand cutter is a bloke with 12 or 15 years + experience with a body 12 or 15 years younger than when he attained that experience .  Hope this helps 😁

[Stere]

 

Id like one of theese to carry stuff

 

Motorized Hunting Big Game Cart - Collapsible Electric Deer Carrier

WWW.PACKWHEEL.COM

---

The Pack Wheel hunting and game cart is a light-weight, collapsible deer and elk carrier. Its electric motor makes...

 

[slack ma girdle]

Look up the chainsaw operators blog on Facebook ,  there are a number of cutters in south Scotland that post regularly,  and are generally pretty helpful.

[trigger_andy]

Hey, I'm currently working as an engineer and have been for the past five years in Scotland,  but over the past year I've been thinking of changing careers. I've been saving and still am for my chainsaw tickets. I'm looking to become a woodcutter/tree feller but just looking for some tips on ways to go about becoming one and what gear/saw I should buy to get me started, tips for being self employed etc even van/tool set ups. I aim to have about 2-3K GBP to spend on saw, PPE and tickets in the next 6 months. 
 
Thanks a lot.
 

What kind of Engineer are you? Qualified or just an Engineering type role?

I’ll get slated here for this POV but I honestly can’t see the upside of giving up what could well be a well paid and skilled job with what most likely has a good private pension and potentially other perks such as private health care and a car to take up a job that pays little better than minimum wage.

[Donnie]

7 minutes ago, trigger_andy said:

 

What kind of Engineer are you? Qualified or just an Engineering type role?

I’ll get slated here for this POV but I honestly can’t see the upside of giving up what could well be a well paid and skilled job with what most likely has a good private pension and potentially other perks such as private health care and a car to take up a job that pays little better than minimum wage.

 

Surely this job isn't just over minimum wage? I've been an engineer for over 6-7 years. Fabrication, welding and machining along with steel erecting and a bit of mechanical fitting along with pipework etc also. But I'm bored of it now and fancy a change, I'm on 13 an hour right now. No private health care and a basic pension. 
 

I have the intentions of getting on a machine like a forwarder after a few years if I am lucky. 

Edited November 21, 2021 by JDon