Rebuilding a 1999 Husky 346XP

[topchippyles]

2 hours ago, Stubby said:

It would then have a de comp valve whereas the smaller one did not me thinks .

It would be like you then stubby have extra fire power 

[Stubby]

7 minutes ago, topchippyles said:

It would be like you then stubby have extra fire power 

Oh you ! 🥰

[adw]

There was a cylinder variant for the later saw without the deco valve, and a low compression variant for the elderly Chinese market.

[AngrySquirrel]

there are some 346 bits floating around on ebay there is also golf piston with rings and bit £20

[spudulike]

On 02/11/2021 at 13:09, adw said:

There was a cylinder variant for the later saw without the deco valve, and a low compression variant for the elderly Chinese market.

You are joking...I guess when you are 4'8" and 7 stone, pulling over a 50cc saw could seem a bit daunting

[adw]

Behave, yes it was 45cc with dished piston,  we cant all be a virile young chap like yourself Steve.

[Dan Maynard]

Behave, yes it was 45cc with dished piston,  we cant all be a virile young chap like yourself Steve.

I never heard of that.

Pop-down piston has a certain ring to it.

[Tmx]

On 01/11/2021 at 14:48, adw said:

Most common leakage will be at the drive side seal, it is pressed into the bearing and can be replaced.

Do you mean the seal on the crankshaft !? I can't find any other reference to a seal that might need to be pressed in on any of the diagrams.

On 01/11/2021 at 19:46, spudulike said:

You forgot the split inlet manifold around the impulse connector but obviously agree on the seals, both are rather interesting to fit BTW!!

Could you point out these common failure points in regards to the diagram below please ?  I don't have the saw in front of me right now so just trying to see what to check while I'm waiting for the piston kit to turn up before it takes a trip to Spud.

 

If any of those common failure points have failed on mine, would it make sense to replace with the same item or is the version from a 2007+ 346XP NE version or even from a similar age 357XP, since the saw will be ported, a better idea if that part is stronger/longer lasting etc?

Thanks.

[spudulike]

Yes, ADW means the crankshaft seal or radial seal and it is pushed in to the actual bearing - it is a sod even with the factory tools and requires a real knack and isn't helped that they are dam expensive.

The manifold - The yellow mark is where they typically split and it is often very hard to see. If the saw has been stripped in the past, the whole impulse doofa may be deformed where someone has located the manifold incorrectly or you could say....hasn't got a clue!!

If you are purchasing parts to give to me when you run the saw in....don't as I have them all in stock and charge what you are likely to purchase them for!

 

[adw]

Bloody hell in stock!