How big a mill to get?

[Big J]

I would go against the general feeling and say that buying the smallest mill you think it practical is best.

 

I don't like wide throat mills really. They just aren't as accurate as narrow throated mills unless you spend an awful lot of money and use very wide bands (4-6 inch plus). It's extremely difficult to ensure consistent, accurate cutting across anything over 60cm with a 38mm blade. 

 

If you're not planning to mill big logs, don't buy a big mill. The one extra I'd say is much more useful is basic hydraulics. Log handling is brilliant. 3ft wide, 100kg plus boards aren't, unless you have all the appropriate handling machinery and a market for the boards.

[Woodworks]

21 minutes ago, Big J said:

I would go against the general feeling and say that buying the smallest mill you think it practical is best.

 

I don't like wide throat mills really. They just aren't as accurate as narrow throated mills unless you spend an awful lot of money and use very wide bands (4-6 inch plus). It's extremely difficult to ensure consistent, accurate cutting across anything over 60cm with a 38mm blade. 

 

If you're not planning to mill big logs, don't buy a big mill. The one extra I'd say is much more useful is basic hydraulics. Log handling is brilliant. 3ft wide, 100kg plus boards aren't, unless you have all the appropriate handling machinery and a market for the boards.

That was my thinking about a smaller mill to a point. On the  other hand presumably longer blades last longer when cutting small sections and from what I have read there is a lot of blade changing required when milling? In the Woodlands Mills range the two smaller models dont have an adjustable blade guide but the HM130 does so hopefully that provides accuracy when cutting smaller sections. Described around 17min 10sec  in this video 

 

Dont think any of the small mills offer hydraulic log handling but can see manoeuvring the log around on the deck is hard work and eats time. 

 

[Big J]

6 minutes ago, Woodworks said:

That was my thinking about a smaller mill to a point. On the  other hand presumably longer blades last longer when cutting small sections and from what I have read there is a lot of blade changing required when milling? In the Woodlands Mills range the two smaller models dont have an adjustable blade guide but the HM130 does so hopefully that provides accuracy when cutting smaller sections. Described around 17min 10sec  in this video 

 

Dont think any of the small mills offer hydraulic log handling but can see manoeuvring the log around on the deck is hard work and eats time. 

 

 

I don't think you'd see any appreciable difference in band life between narrow and wide throat mills. A narrow throat will do a 30cm cut faster than a wide throat mill. The reason is that you can push harder before the blade starts to deviate. As such, you could make the argument that the blade spends less time in cut and would last longer. 

 

An adjustable blade guide doesn't necessarily mean accuracy. You still get flex and flex means deviation. 

[trigger_andy]

I would go against the general feeling and say that buying the smallest mill you think it practical is best.
 
I don't like wide throat mills really. They just aren't as accurate as narrow throated mills unless you spend an awful lot of money and use very wide bands (4-6 inch plus). It's extremely difficult to ensure consistent, accurate cutting across anything over 60cm with a 38mm blade. 
 
If you're not planning to mill big logs, don't buy a big mill. The one extra I'd say is much more useful is basic hydraulics. Log handling is brilliant. 3ft wide, 100kg plus boards aren't, unless you have all the appropriate handling machinery and a market for the boards.

I agree to a point. But we’re talking of the difference of inches here, not feet. I don’t think anyones suggesting getting a mill the size of the one you used to run, or Dave currently runs. Just that if you’re thinking of getting a 126 then pushing the boat out and getting a 130 is not really going to affect the accuracy of the cut and if you do ever get a log that needs the extra width you’re covered.

[Woodworks]

On 02/11/2021 at 06:42, trigger_andy said:

My budget was really for a Woodlands 130 but then I spotted the new Logosol offering and having worked with the Logosol M7 and M8 and reading reviews I knew the build quality was very good. They took the best design features of similar sized Norwood and Woodmizer Mills and incorporated them into their design and added a few clever ideas of their own as well. I know Logosol have very good support. 
 

Looking at this machine more closely now. It's a lot more than I had intended to spent but does look good on paper. How well does the blade guide system work? Seems its a really solid guide but only has a bearings on the inside of the blade and a flange on that as the back support. This is a bit different to other makes 

Edited November 3, 2021 by Woodworks

[trigger_andy]

Just now, Woodworks said:

Looking at this machine more closely now. It's a lot more than I had intended to spent but does look good on paper. How well does the blade guide system work? Seems its a really solid guide but only has a bearings on the inside of the blade and no support bearing. This is a bit different to other makes 

It’s a very well thought out and built machine.
 

Two year guarantee that I’ve tested and they ship the parts out very quickly. They just want a picture of the faulty item and the ship it out. 
 

Ive set my Mill up as precisely as possible and can take 3mm veneer cuts the full 24”

width of cut.   
 

I’ve never had an issue with the bearings, I think it’s a fairly standard design on mills like Norwood, but could be wrong? I often mill oak logs up to the full 30” the mill can handle and I push it hard and to the limits. 
 

I was in the same situation as you, looking for a smaller and cheaper mill but found it hard to look past the Logosol. 
 

I don’t have the “Pro” version as they where not out at the time of purchase but I’d try and buy the Pro if you can as you have a much larger choice of attachments you can purchase later. I have to modify them to fit my mill. 

[Woodworks]

1 hour ago, trigger_andy said:

It’s a very well thought out and built machine.
 

Two year guarantee that I’ve tested and they ship the parts out very quickly. They just want a picture of the faulty item and the ship it out. 
 

Ive set my Mill up as precisely as possible and can take 3mm veneer cuts the full 24”

width of cut.   
 

I’ve never had an issue with the bearings, I think it’s a fairly standard design on mills like Norwood, but could be wrong? I often mill oak logs up to the full 30” the mill can handle and I push it hard and to the limits. 
 

I was in the same situation as you, looking for a smaller and cheaper mill but found it hard to look past the Logosol. 
 

I don’t have the “Pro” version as they where not out at the time of purchase but I’d try and buy the Pro if you can as you have a much larger choice of attachments you can purchase later. I have to modify them to fit my mill. 

The Norwood I looked at had ceramic blocks either side of the blade I think but it was a cheaper machine. The Woodland Mills is like the Norwood but a steel blocks. I was less bothered about what the support is than the fact its only one side of the blade but its an expensive machine so I guess it works. Are those rollers set up slightly pressing against the blade or are they just lightly touching it? Thanks

[Johnsond]

50 minutes ago, Woodworks said:

The Norwood I looked at had ceramic blocks either side of the blade I think but it was a cheaper machine. The Woodland Mills is like the Norwood but a steel blocks. I was less bothered about what the support is than the fact its only one side of the blade but its an expensive machine so I guess it works. Are those rollers set up slightly pressing against the blade or are they just lightly touching it? Thanks

The rollers are what you will find on all the better more professional machines. There is downforce on the blade from the roller hopefully the pic explains that. You most definitely don’t want the back of the blade touching the shoulder on the roller that will wreck the blade in no time. The woodlands hybrid bearing and guides type set up works fine from my experience with the 130, although it has no downforce on the blade as such, I’ve seen a lot of articles on Norwood owners ditching the ceramic guides for rollers. The learning curve and info to get these things to cut correctly is not to be underestimated, Ive picked the brains off loads of people to solve issues. Just when you think you’ve cracked it there is always something to fetch you back to earth with a bump. I’d thoroughly recommend trying to find someone within travelling distance whom has a mill to get a look etc at what’s what, there’s no shortage of them out there or people using them on here. 

Edited November 3, 2021 by Johnsond

[topchippyles]

34 minutes ago, Johnsond said:

The rollers are what you will find on all the better more professional machines. There is downforce on the blade from the roller hopefully the pic explains that. You most definitely don’t want the back of the blade touching the shoulder on the roller that will wreck the blade in no time. The woodlands hybrid bearing and guides type set up works fine from my experience with the 130, although it has no downforce on the blade as such, I’ve seen a lot of articles on Norwood owners ditching the ceramic guides for rollers. The learning curve and info to get these things to cut correctly is not to be underestimated, Ive picked the brains off loads of people to solve issues. Just when you think you’ve cracked it there is always something to fetch you back to earth with a bump. I’d thoroughly recommend trying to find someone within travelling distance whom has a mill to get a look etc at what’s what, there’s no shortage of them out there or people using them on here. 

Pays to see a couple of different working machines as dave has pointed out. It will give you an insight and pay dividends when choosing your own one to purchase.Chris at woodland mills is only a couple of hrs away from you or even closer ( Mark Gobby ) is down in devon and he has the 130max and will happily show you it working.

Edited November 3, 2021 by topchippyles

[Woodworks]

1 hour ago, Johnsond said:

The rollers are what you will find on all the better more professional machines. There is downforce on the blade from the roller hopefully the pic explains that. You most definitely don’t want the back of the blade touching the shoulder on the roller that will wreck the blade in no time. The woodlands hybrid bearing and guides type set up works fine from my experience with the 130, although it has no downforce on the blade as such, I’ve seen a lot of articles on Norwood owners ditching the ceramic guides for rollers. The learning curve and info to get these things to cut correctly is not to be underestimated, Ive picked the brains off loads of people to solve issues. Just when you think you’ve cracked it there is always something to fetch you back to earth with a bump. I’d thoroughly recommend trying to find someone within travelling distance whom has a mill to get a look etc at what’s what, there’s no shortage of them out there or people using them on here. 

Thats all very helpful. Got to see a Woodland Mills bandmill yesterday. They do offer great value and couldn't pick much fault with it other than a slightly lightweight track. Easily resolved with good sub bearers though. Pretty much down to the HM130 or the small Logosol 751 like Andys. Not managed to talk to Chris at WM as he is away but the Logosol dealer seemed very helpful and have a machine I can see.

 

Like the belt system on yours. All the ones I have seen have the band running on the drive belt which seems odd but must work.