Felling A Leaner / Back Cut Query

[Svts]

30 minutes ago, Steve Bullman said:

So long as the bore cut and hinge are correct I’ve never been convinced that the method of release makes much difference at all!

Much like cranework, all the fancy cuts in the world make no difference if the slings aren’t set perfect 

Thats true to some extent. The flat cut release is just foolproof (useful for me) and quick. Essential attributes in low value high volume situations in my book. Horses for courses. 

[AHPP]

Straight out the back for me. I could justify it by reckoning that pulling cambium fibre is better timber practise than pulling heartwood fibre but the reality is just that the saw’s already there and I’ve never had a problem with it.

[spuddog0507]

As people above have said the release cut should be at 45 degrees, the photos below are the best i can find at the moment, the larch is not that big may be 16-18" the stump has been trimmed but you can see the angle on the but end, 2nd tree is a beech 30" + and may be 80-90 ft tall and was partcially up rooted  but you get the general idea of the dog tooth cut ,

[drinksloe]

8 hours ago, Witterings said:

 

If you do the letterbox, do you then still put the back cut approx 1 1/2" above or would you now do it at the same level as the letterbox?

 

I guess the othe question that kind of goes hand in hand is open, humboldt or conventional .... again with a heavy leaner, from what I#ve been watching was thinking probably open?

 

I also use holding cuts if tree in a dodgy area with only a slight lean, steep slopes other hazzards or limited escape routes, set the tree up get urself into ur safer area and ready to move, sever ur tag and GTF

 

Dunno if I'm doing it right but my back cut is generally above the letter box,, that way when I tidy butt up u can cut off hinge and the stick out bit off letter box.

So tidy butt is solid no boring in it.

Really shouldn't affect the tree falling over just tmber quality on 1st log

 

As for guns it will depend on where the tree is and wot u want it to do?

Fly off butt, stay on hinge, steep slopes.

Really type off gub probably won't matter for the holding cut to work ( apart from possibly a smaller gub on small/med trees just to give u room to bore)

 

Vancover V cut is another good 1 for heavy forward leaning trees if going where leaning and not trying to direct them.

Or on small trees a T cut (or Mohican cut) works very well, instead of boring u cut 2 strips off either side to hinge so left with a strip of holding wood in middle, so looks like a T with the hinge, then just come in from back as usual

 

 

 

[the village idiot]

8 hours ago, Witterings said:

 

If you do the letterbox, do you then still put the back cut approx 1 1/2" above or would you now do it at the same level as the letterbox?

 

I guess the othe question that kind of goes hand in hand is open, humboldt or conventional .... again with a heavy leaner, from what I#ve been watching was thinking probably open?

 

I'm with MattyF on this one. I find that doing an angled back cut down to meet the back of the bore puts you in a better position to make your retreat, especially when cutting close to the ground.

 

It's probably not a good idea to bore your letterbox right out the back of the tree as this could leave you with too little holding timber. You just want to remove the center of the hinge.

 

I have always used conventional or open gobs. Never tried a humboldt.

[Witterings]

One last question, if the leaners on flat ground do you do the bore / back cut so it's parallel to the ground or do you do it at the angle of the tree so the cut will be at an angle to the ground? 

 

Just for clarity the leans in the intended direction of fall.

 

EDIT: I think I've answered my own question with this diagram I found which infers angled back cuts could cause the tree to go over backwards raher than the intended direction of fall?

felling+leaning+trees+diagram - Recherche Google

WWW.GOOGLE.COM

 

Edited March 17, 2021 by Witterings

[the village idiot]

15 minutes ago, Witterings said:

One last question, if the leaners on flat ground do you do the bore / back cut so it's parallel to the ground or do you do it at the angle of the tree so the cut will be at an angle to the ground? 

 

Just for clarity the leans in the intended direction of fall.

 

EDIT: I think I've answered my own question with this diagram I found which infers angled back cuts could cause the tree to go over backwards raher than the intended direction of fall?

felling+leaning+trees+diagram - Recherche Google

WWW.GOOGLE.COM

 

Good question. I have absolutely no idea.

 

If the tree is leaning I would be surprised if any angle of cut would cause the tree to come back in the opposite direction. Very strong winds aside, this would be defying the laws of physics.

 

There are certain tools available that allow you to encourage a tree to fall against a small lean but in my view if the lean is significant it's a fools errand to try and fell against the lean unless you have winching equipment.

[Witterings]

11 minutes ago, the village idiot said:

There are certain tools available that allow you to encourage a tree to fall against a small lean but in my view if the lean is significant it's a fools errand to try and fell against the lean unless you have winching equipment.

 

Yes have seen videos on felling against the lean as well and it's quite staggering the force it exerts in the direction it wants to go which may be totally underestimated by people thinking they can pull it in the direction they want with a rope 🤣

Edited March 17, 2021 by Witterings

[Khriss]

If in doubt, get Tirfor out 😉 K

[Svts]

Like most things in life there are different but equally valid solutions to a situation. Have a play and see what works for you. 

Here's a little vid I did last year to explain my preferred solution to someone else. It's quick, simple and minimal faff.