Go lo Pro?

[Rough Hewn]

Small diameter also means higher sprocket spead, therefore more heat and less metal to dissipate it. I am convinced that it just isn't suitable for a 129 odd cc saw. 

Have you phoned GB in Australia?
Get it from the horses mouth.
Otherwise we are all just guessing.
[emoji106]

[Wonky]

Yes it’s like 😬🙈

[Rough Hewn]

Just phoned GB.
Answerphone.
Probably middle of night.
I’ll try tonight.
[emoji106]

[Stere]

Why do they make thoose tips  smaller diameter?

 

Does a 3/8 chain carry less oil to the tip than a 404?

 

[Macpherson]

I thought this guys kerf size comparison is worth a look....Kind of puts things in perspective

 

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/real-kerf-sizes.137465/

[Wonky]

That was a good old thread on kerfs, and as some pointed out a new chain has a bigger kerf due to the teef being bigger.

 

anyhow I’ve  been giving this thread some mor thought and time. Lots of interesting things have been said..

 

I don’t want to hurt anybody’s feelers, but although I’ve said the

 the rivets maybe the culprit and a few other things.

  
I,m looking back and It’s really a case of big saw  lots of power and a few errors, that would normally go unnoticed with bigger chain and bar. But put the smaller chain and thinner bar in the equation to save a bit of wood and make it a bit quicker   it didn’t  mix with not being careful.. what ever level of careful enough that is idk. 
 

i,m gonna see if anything new comes to this thread. But until then it’s best to stick with the bigger chain stuff, also maybe skip or hyper skip chain.

cheers

👍

 

 

 

[Alasdairs dog]

11 hours ago, Wonky said:

Yes it’s like 😬🙈

Yeah there is lots going on. Wedging is essential whatever set up you are running. I have removed one variable from my set up and that is the 3/8 lo Pro stuff. Now running 404 on a 48 inch duramatic bar and have been milling like mad for the last few days. No issues at all and a pretty good finish with oregon ripping chain. I still firmly beleive that the lo Pro just doesn't have the stamina for big bars and saws. Happy for folk to disagree but do far nothing I have heard in here had convinced me otherwise. 

[Rough Hewn]

Just got off the phone with GB in Australia.
No problems with the nose sprockets or chains.
It’s precision kit, highly refined.
Leaves a clean finish.
[emoji106]

[agg221]

Some comment which might help broaden the experience.

 

The question was asked earlier in this thread about whether anyone had run lo-pro on a 660/661. I use it on my 066, both for milling and, because it saves carrying an extra bar and sprocket to remote locations, as a cross-cut felling chain. I have snapped one chain so far, when I found a series of hardened steel nails right in the heart of a log. It did make it through a couple before the chain went! I tend to be very careful around force, speed etc. I do not use a winch as I prefer the feedback and I often use it on the mini-mill for quartering so I am looking to keep 36" of vertical cut perfectly straight by eye alone.

 

For general milling I use an 090 with a 42" roller-nose bar. I like roller-noses as they are very simple and they are mounted largely clear of the bar so the sawdust falls away.

 

My general observation is that thinner kerf is not really about waste so much as reduced work by the saw which gives faster cutting and less stress on the engine. To get the best out of it, you want to run the chain faster as each tooth is taking out less, so you lose the advantage to an extent if you have a big, slow-revving saw. Faster chain/smaller bite is also less sensitive to how hard the wood is. With the 090 it really is worth filing down the rakers for softer wood as it will chew out big lumps and cut faster; for a faster revving, lower torque saw you don't get the same advantage as it is taking smaller bites more quickly. This has a bearing on the question of breaking chains as the torque is there to do it but to avoid it you need to use less force into the cut and not adjust the chain to cut too deep. You can gauge it to a point by engine note, but I find feel is easier. I also always sharpen with the Granberg precision grinder, using diamond bits, to keep everything absolutely even - I don't want that one long tooth to catch and put the extra force on the chain that it takes to break it.

 

Essentially, if you run standard .404" chain on a big saw or 3/8" on a mid-sized saw then you probably can't break it however much you bog it down, but if you run smaller, more delicate chain, the power-head is capable of breaking it so it is more down to user practice to avoid doing so.

 

Mind you, sticking an 88" bar on the 090 does reach its limits - that one needs skip-tooth chain to keep it going!

 

Alec

 

 

Edited March 3, 2021 by agg221

[trigger_andy]

1 hour ago, Rough Hewn said:

Just got off the phone with GB in Australia.
No problems with the nose sprockets or chains.
It’s precision kit, highly refined.
Leaves a clean finish.

If I was selling a product thats what Id say as well.  

 

I hear VW said there was no cheating with their diesel emissions. 

 

Till they where caught with their panties down. 

 

Id need thicker knee pads than you wear Saul if I was gonna get down on my knees and  swallow what that from the horses mouth.