Stihl TS410 Disc cutter won't start.

[bmp01]

Back to the concrete saw - the backfire might have done something bad to the carb or it might be a symptom of something going bad with the coil timing and it finally checking out. Glad you checked the flywheel timing.

Can you borrow a coil assy from a running saw to fit to this saw ?

If its not that I'd do the same swap with the carb but that's a bigger job.

 

[Sviatoslav Tulin]

On 29/01/2021 at 16:31, Carrot Cruncher said:

I've exhausted my normal diagnostic routes with a Stihl TS410 disc cutter. Handed to me by my boss as an unknown it ran ok but with a tonne of smoke, the engine then backfired and cut out like the ignition had been cut and hasn't started again since!

 

It has good compression and fuel which I have changed for a fresh mix. The spark is good so to my mind it should go or at least fire! I've had the flywheel off in case the woodruff key had moved or semi sheared but all is well. I've also disconnected the stop switch in case that was causing a fault. I think it has reed valves and I have no knowledge of these. I've also removed the very dirty air filter which made no difference and I've tried lobbing some fuel directly in the bore. It hasn't even had the courtesy to fire once.

 

Ideas please and tell me what I've missed.

 

Phil.

Now, my advice, if problem isn't obvious, i personally disassemble everything, usually it help to find out what wrong with it, not simple way though, and cannot be done by everyone, but u didn't pay anithing for it so, for educational purposes worth to try. 

[peatff]

A friend of mine had a TS410 given him. It would fire but not run and had been to a "garden repair" shop. I cleaned it all up and rebuilt the carb, blew everything out with the compressor and it ran but wouldn't rev out.  Everything checked out fine with good compression etc. He bought a new filter and it still wouldn't rev so I put a carb kit in it and had the carb body sonic cleaned and it was perfect. 

[bmp01]

58 minutes ago, Sviatoslav Tulin said:

My, advice still the same, Do not listen this man, he miss big part if his education, if he had it at all. END. My second one in 16 years, 2 years old, regularly cleaned paper filter, air from compressor or my mouth 😂, no dust after filter a bit of oil, mostly used dry, according to my dairy about 300 hours on it, still original filter, thats for genius ADW.

You have a point but....

Its worth considering there's a massive difference between personally owned kit and commercially run kit. Looking at the condion of your saw I'd guess the paper filter never really gets dirty before it's cleaned, which is a good thing not a criticism. Is that the typical saw maintenance? Of the limited number of concrete saws I've seen, 4 off, it was a job to find the paper filter let alone clean it. 2 of the 4 had trashed pistons and cylinders - could have been fuel or filtration issues....or both.

Horses for courses, time to let it go....

[Paddy1000111]

I'm with @adw on this. Don't blow it out with an airline. It's bad practice. Not just for the filter but you're making all the concrete dust airborne which if you like silicosis then go for it.

Gently tap it out on a clean surface if it's a bit chocked up and replace it when necessary, there's a reason they're cheap. 

 

If you can spray in a tickle of easy start and it still won't fire then it's spark or compression. Get the compression tester on it and swap the plug out just incase. You could have a crack in the spark plug, plug boot or HT lead that only shorts when the plugs in. Take the HT lead off and bend it back and forth to look for split insulation and do the same with the boot. 

Edited January 31, 2021 by Paddy1000111

[dumper]

27 minutes ago, Paddy1000111 said:

I'm with @adw on this. Don't blow it out with an airline. It's bad practice. Not just for the filter but you're making all the concrete dust airborne which if you like silicosis then go for it.

Gently tap it out on a clean surface if it's a bit chocked up and replace it when necessary, there's a reason they're cheap. 

 

If you can spray in a tickle of easy start and it still won't fire then it's spark or compression. Get the compression tester on it and swap the plug out just incase. You could have a crack in the spark plug, plug boot or HT lead that only shorts when the plugs in. Take the HT lead off and bend it back and forth to look for split insulation and do the same with the boot. 

For the cost of the filter we just replace and carry spare total piece of mind commercial saws take a pasting, 12 months is a old saw 

[blackjack]

I've got 2 of theses we just replace the filters they are cheap enough, on the previous models the Ts 400 the filters needed cleaning weekly but those saws were older.

I just bought the new Husky 770 as I"m fed up with the recoil pawls constantly breaking on the 410s and the stop switches dying and also primer bulbs splitting.The bolt housings fracture and let go on the flywheel side leaving the plastic casing flapping.We only use genuine parts on them but no more Stihls for me too much down time.

 

[adw]

Did you get the oil guard machine? Since its introduction we have seen cylinder sales drop like a stone, the K770 is without doubt the best power cutter on the market today, don't just replace the filter as a matter of course, leave it until completely blocked, then remove and replace it, the compensator carb will handle a near completely blocked filter, removing filters disturbes the seal, and as for using an air line on them, never, however please carry on blowing the Stihl filters out as this will help with our new sales of 770s

[blackjack]

Got the none oil guard ,I was going to get a 760 a couple of years ago but the oil guard completely put me off so I got another Stihl,last time the recoil pawl snapped I went to get parts and walked out with a new 770 I really like it.

[spudulike]

Stone cutters and saws are different, that dust in stone cutters is highly abrasive so seals, main bearings and cylinders get knocked out pretty quickly if the filtration is not looked after.

I hadn't thought about punching holes in the air filter with a compressor but can see that on this type of equipment, it would be best to do regular replacement of the filtration system rather than blasting it as we would do on a chainsaw.

I once purchased three TS400s and all had crap seals, crap mains and just sold the lot on as it was not worth rebuilding them.....never looked at the cylinders!