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Husqvarna won't start.


Shepherdess
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2 minutes ago, gary112 said:

Hmmm,i find it best to deal with local suppliers,it keeps them in business and when something like this happens it makes things easier to sort out

Unfortunately there were none open during lockdown so no option but to purchase online.

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An on line supplier still has an obligation to look after machines they have sold, your next step is to contact the supplier and put it back on them, your contract is with them, they have taken your money, if no joy contact the first and garden office in Aycliffe, if it’s one of their dealers they should sort it out with them, all the joys of buying online.

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Turn the adjusters in then out again 1 1/4 turns each and turn the tick over up a bit just to start with then follow the start procedure. Pump the bubble, I usually give mine 8 or 10 pumps then pull the choke lever out and lift it up. Put your foot through the handle and pull the cord till the saw coughs then push the lever down without touching the trigger and pull it over again and it should start on fast idle. Give it 10 seconds then pull the trigger to disengage fast idle and run it. I find they start easier without the chain brake on but it's not always advised. The mixture screws are splined and the tick over is a straight, has he got the proper driver ?

 

Whereabouts are you and who did you buy it from. Local help may be available from someone who uses saws regularly. Did he not use it for a month after it stopped working ?

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18 minutes ago, peatff said:

Turn the adjusters in then out again 1 1/4 turns each and turn the tick over up a bit just to start with then follow the start procedure. Pump the bubble, I usually give mine 8 or 10 pumps then pull the choke lever out and lift it up. Put your foot through the handle and pull the cord till the saw coughs then push the lever down without touching the trigger and pull it over again and it should start on fast idle. Give it 10 seconds then pull the trigger to disengage fast idle and run it. I find they start easier without the chain brake on but it's not always advised. The mixture screws are splined and the tick over is a straight, has he got the proper driver ?

 

Whereabouts are you and who did you buy it from. Local help may be available from someone who uses saws regularly. Did he not use it for a month after it stopped working ?

Yes he has the proper driver for this and had tried all you suggest to no avail. He used it for a little while after purchase (he has no need to use daily) but then had to wait to get the correct driver and after he was adjusting the screws it failed to start.

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You should in no circumstances be tampering with the carb this will invalidate the warranty, anybody telling you to do this on a new saw is an idiot, you have no idea what you are doing and have probably done more harm than good, i give up.

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40 minutes ago, spudulike said:

I would fiddle with the carb until it runs;)

 

That's how we learn in my opinion but then again I do have a vague idea and am not an idiot (well in my opinion, others may differ). Has he checked the obvious stuff like is there a spark and is fuel getting into the cylinder. My go to when all  else fails is to put a drop of fuel straight into the cylinder and warm the plug then give it a pull with no choke after checking there is a spark. Has he checked the piston for scoring ? I know it shouldn't on a new saw but it's best to be sure but if you can't take the silencer off and put it back on again without leaving evidence that could invalidate the warranty like us idiots can then sending it back is your only option. ;)

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6 hours ago, adw said:

You should in no circumstances be tampering with the carb this will invalidate the warranty, anybody telling you to do this on a new saw is an idiot, you have no idea what you are doing and have probably done more harm than good, i give up.

Well yeah,  but OP explained that was done before asking for advice on here...first post...

Putting carb screws back to factory settings is (sort of) undoing tamperring. I'd imagine that was the first thing the chap did after it wouldn't start though.

 

I'm in the 'do the basics' camp before sending back, you'd do that stuff as basic maintenance anyway.

Basics:

-Reset the carb screws to manufacturers settings.

-Has it got compression,  pick  up by pull cord,  does it drop slowly ?

-Is there a spark ? (probably ok from the description).

-Take the plug out, is it dry or wet/oily? 

---If the plugs wet/oily pull the saw over with the plug out to clear it out. Clean the plug (or get a new one), heat plug up, install, try to start. Don't be using the choke too much, choke off at the first hint of it coughing and probably after the first or second pull anyway if it's got a purge bulb. 

---If plug is dry there's no fuel getting through. Clean the plug (or get a new one), a few drops of fuel through spark plug hole, install plug, try to start. It might run for an instant before running out of fuel again. 

-If it doesn't run or runs briefly check spark plug again. 

 

Feedback ?

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I should state that my husband is not an inexperienced idiot! He had worked with various machines and engines all his life and can usually solve most problems himself and is fully aware that he will be unlikely to be able to return this saw now he has been working on it. The question was posted to try to find a solution  for this problem that had baffled him. He plans to try again today and hopes that he will be able to start the saw and get it working. He thanks anyone who had made constructive suggestions but he had, previously, tried all that had been suggested so is not quite sure what else to try.

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