Alaskan milling

[Rough Hewn]

Can’t help but think you all make it extremely hard for yourselves either without a winch or with the winch but in gnarly logs.
For everything I chainsaw mill I now setup a Very basic frame on the top of log even after the first cut. Ensure this hangs over the side of the log just enough on the cutting saw (I’m generally double power head setup) side. Full throttle all the way, no gnarly bumps and a nice gentle wind through every-time on the winch. The only boring part about chainsaw milling should be moving the beastly slabs you’ve just milled and resharpening regaularly
 

That I like.
[emoji106]

[gobbypunk]

When I first started with my Alaskan I had a load of trouble with chain tension so much so I almost cut through one of the bolts so Rob D suggested I change my hard nosed bar for a sprocket nosed bar and as soon as I did the issues went away and I just had to use the old hard nosed bar and straight away tension issues but only when milling if I am cross cutting with the 4ft hard nosed bar no issues.Hi Josh do you fix that frame to the log every cut ?

[Josh Purton]

1 minute ago, gobbypunk said:

When I first started with my Alaskan I had a load of trouble with chain tension so much so I almost cut through one of the bolts so Rob D suggested I change my hard nosed bar for a sprocket nosed bar and as soon as I did the issues went away and I just had to use the old hard nosed bar and straight away tension issues but only when milling if I am cross cutting with the 4ft hard nosed bar no issues.Hi Josh do you fix that frame to the log every cut ?

Yes I do - else the power of the saw shifts it, unseen in the image is small right angle brackets that are lightly screwed into the top of the slab. Only goes into the wood a couple mm so is never seen after flattening / sanding 

[topchippyles]

3 hours ago, Josh Purton said:

Can’t help but think you all make it extremely hard for yourselves either without a winch or with the winch but in gnarly logs.

For everything I chainsaw mill I now setup a Very basic frame on the top of log even after the first cut. Ensure this hangs over the side of the log just enough on the cutting saw (I’m generally double power head setup) side. Full throttle all the way, no gnarly bumps and a nice gentle wind through every-time on the winch. The only boring part about chainsaw milling should be moving the beastly slabs you’ve just milled and resharpening regaularly

 

What do you consider the best milling bars and chains.Have bought some real nice kit in the last few weeks (M7 logosol) New saws so looking to complete the package as my current setup for alaskan type milling is stihl 038 with a 36 inch lo pro  bar-3/8 ripping chain.

Edited May 31, 2020 by topchippyles

[Josh Purton]

2 hours ago, topchippyles said:

What do you consider the best milling bars and chains.Have bought some real nice kit in the last few weeks (M7 logosol) New saws so looking to complete the package as my current setup for alaskan type milling is stihl 038 with a 36 inch lo pro  bar-3/8 ripping chain.

IMO The only saw for milling is an 880 and small bars just stick with Sugihara, can’t go wrong. Buy from Rob D at ChainsawBars as service always great

[trigger_andy]

Just now, Josh Purton said:

IMO The only saw for milling is an 880 and small bars just stick with Sugihara, can’t go wrong. Buy from Rob D at ChainsawBars as service always great

I use an 088. Its a great saw as well if your budget cant stretch to a fancy 880.  I used a 064 with my 36" Mill and that was also perfect for the smaller Mill.

 

A 038 is simply to small for Hardwoods in my opinion. Maybe ok if you're just knocking out skinny softwood I guess?

[Macpherson]

On 27/05/2020 at 07:08, Rough Hewn said:

Also I prefer the feedback of manually controlling the mill.

Yep , although I've got a winch for the purpose, I find that it dulls your contact with the work piece and can prevent you from directly  feeling that you're wrecking you're chain....but if you're just ripping planks out of clean logs , it's ok, cheers.

[gobbypunk]

Hi yepfor milling it’s got to be the biggest saw possible I have an 880 ,and it’s got to be a Sugi bar and I just use a 404 milling chain and it’s always been a good set up ! I don’t do that much chainsaw milling since I broke my ankle and managed to get a bandmill ,but I guess I will always keep it as they are a bloody good bit of kit

[trigger_andy]

3 hours ago, gobbypunk said:

and it’s got to be a Sugi bar

Why? 

[The avantgardener]

2 hours ago, trigger_andy said:

Why? 

The quality of the steel means they are more rigid and they are very durable, very little guidebar dressing required, easily worth the extra money.

Edited June 1, 2020 by The avantgardener