Gun stock refinishing

[Lazurus]

Pretty patterns? An old Webley and Scott .410 bolt action that I Lichtenberged

[spudulike]

I have done a Beech stock and a Walnut stock both on Air Arms rifles. I stripped the old varnish off with Nitromors, scrape off the gunge then clean the stock well - best done with the metal stripped off it wash all the residue off so it is very clean.

You then have two options, Birchwood Casey True Oil or Liberon Finishing Oil. You can apply both oils with cloth or even your finger, both touch dry relatively fast and you just apply a few coats in the day, let it harden overnight and keep rubbing it down. If you apply a few coats, it stays satin and if you like high gloss, keep going and if you end up with too much gloss, take it back a little with fine steel wool and use a little wax over the top.

I like the rub on Tung Oils as you don't get runs or brush marks plus it allows a gradual build up of coating until you get the finish you want.

With Walnut, you need to seal it by sanding lightly with oil and sandpaper then rub the slurry in to the pores, Beech is fine without doing this.

[MattyF]

I have done a Beech stock and a Walnut stock both on Air Arms rifles. I stripped the old varnish off with Nitromors, scrape off the gunge then clean the stock well - best done with the metal stripped off it wash all the residue off so it is very clean.
You then have two options, Birchwood Casey True Oil or Liberon Finishing Oil. You can apply both oils with cloth or even your finger, both touch dry relatively fast and you just apply a few coats in the day, let it harden overnight and keep rubbing it down. If you apply a few coats, it stays satin and if you like high gloss, keep going and if you end up with too much gloss, take it back a little with fine steel wool and use a little wax over the top.
I like the rub on Tung Oils as you don't get runs or brush marks plus it allows a gradual build up of coating until you get the finish you want.
With Walnut, you need to seal it by sanding lightly with oil and sandpaper then rub the slurry in to the pores, Beech is fine without doing this.

Don’t suppose you can tune air arms guns as well by chance ?

[spudulike]

I could and it is relatively easy on the PCP one but then it would be a firearm and the law is a bit heavy on that sort of thing so all mine are a fraction under 12FtLb. Not worth the risk!

[MattyF]

Aye but you can service one ? I’m struggling to find any one and have a 15 year old s410 that needs all its seals replaced and anything else that needs doing.

[spudulike]

I haven't done mine yet, the filler connector leaked and replaced that but the rest seems OK for now.

Do you know it has a fault? If it is leaking down, it may just need a new connector as mine did. They hold something like 2600psi in the gun!

I have a S300 which is the forerunner of your rifle so must be fairly old.

[Stubby]

9 hours ago, MattyF said:

Aye but you can service one ? I’m struggling to find any one and have a 15 year old s410 that needs all its seals replaced and anything else that needs doing.

There is a welsh bloke on the air gun forum . He does servicing .

[MattyF]

Not sure Steve , but it’s just not consistent, some times it’s that low you can see the pellet in the scope drop from the target... in contrast my BSA ultra can nail a pigeon in a head 30 -40 metres most shots.
The air arms should be the better gun.

[roys]

BSA Ultra I have, apart from the gauge diaphragm rupturing and having to replace it, it is a cracking gun.

@Lazurus did you use a microwave transformer or a neon sign transformer to get the tracking pattern?

[Lazurus]

@roys Neither I have a purpose built machine imported from the states. IMHO it is too dangerous for a DIY approach.

 

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