Another tree job

[Jack.P]

Been asked a few times from a regular client about reducing a birch in size but I am bit Hesitant to agree to do it and would rather cut it down which I’ve offered to do but client says they will now get someone else to do the job .

But the tree in question had already been cut by someone to about a third of the original size and anymore trimming I’m sure would not be beneficial for the tree and would look crap anyway 

i have done similar jobs before and tried advising the clients against it but ended up doing it anyway 

At what point do we say no to a job ?

 

 

 

[Khriss]

I dont spec' Birch fr reduction, usually finish them off. Crown lift yes but if its too big fr location. Fell it. K

[Mick Dempsey]

Birch reduce pretty well, especially white birch, go to growth points and it’ll be fine

You will get rot pockets, you usually get 2 to 3 re-reductions to previous cuts before the rot pockets become significant enough to warrant going underneath or a fell.

 

 Don’t listen to the fell and replant brigade.

 

 

[Khriss]

Just now, Mick Dempsey said:

Birch reduce pretty well, especially white birch, go to growth points and it’ll be fine

You will get rot pockets, you usually get 2 to 3 re-reductions to previous cuts before the rot pockets become significant enough to warrant going underneath or a fell.

 

 Don’t listen to the fell and replant brigade.

 

 

Boooooooo ? rubbish k

[Dan Maynard]

It is a tricky one, birch especially because they grow fast and don't tolerate pruning. There are some really badly mangled ones around my village which I reckon the owners cut themselves.

On the one hand the customer is setting the spec and paying, on the other hand if like me you live in a small community the trees you've done are a kind of advert. I do believe you have to draw the line somewhere.

Funnily enough I've got this email today asking about a birch, can I do anything to improve its appearance by reshaping/lopping back. Don't know yet, need to see it in the flesh.

[Paul Jenks]

7 minutes ago, Mick Dempsey said:

Birch reduce pretty well, especially white birch, go to growth points and it’ll be fine

You will get rot pockets, you usually get 2 to 3 re-reductions to previous cuts before the rot pockets become significant enough to warrant going underneath or a fell.

 

 Don’t listen to the fell and replant brigade.

 

 

I concur. Each situation is different and to apply a one size fits all approach is both unprofessional and inappropriate. Learn to listen to the client needs and concerns and then give guidance. If they wish to retain the tree explore the reasons why and explore the options available along with the potential physiological, structural and management implications of the recommended works.

[Stere]

Sure i read that birchs are/were pollarded in scandi countries for fodder so maybe it will  do ok after a lop and top?

 

Vincent van Gogh 470 / 1931 Pollard Birches (1884)

 

 

https://www.ancienttreeforum.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/A-study-of-practical-pollarding-techniques-in-northern.pdf

 

Bit late now though sap is up?

 

 

Edited April 3, 2020 by Stere

[TIMON]

I’ve reduced a few with an acceptable result. It really depends on the existing form of the tree to start with.
A combination of light tip reduction and a slight thin out can be successful in maintaining a good shape. Working on a tree which has already been clobbered with lots of messy regrowth is more of a challenge where managing the customers expectations is very important from the start.

[Stere]

Quote

BirchThough birch is not a tree found widely as an example of a pollard in Britain it was certainly frequently cut in the past in Scandinavia and northern Britain for fodder. For thisreason the trees were probably mostly cut during summer months at intervals of five to seven years(Austad 1988).Young birch is likely to respond well to cutting and in general thewhole crown can probably be removed though poor responses have been noted in maiden silver birch over 10cm in diameter (N.Sanderson pers.comm.).Older trees have also been reported to die after removal of a high proportion of the crown in Sweden (Quelch pers.comm.) and veteran birch in the Lake District may show poor responses to surgery.Experiences with lopping large maiden birch trees in the south of England have also shownthat they can be a little unpredictable,this may in part be related to their susceptibility to dryweather.The northern downy birch (Betula pubescens ssp.tortuosa) may be an easier speciesto work with than silver birch (N.Sanderson pers.comm.,1998a).

https://ancienttreeforum.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/Veteran-Trees-A-Guide-to-Good-Management-almost-complete.pdf

[Mick Dempsey]

30 minutes ago, Dan Maynard said:

It is a tricky one, birch especially because they grow fast and don't tolerate pruning. There are some really badly mangled ones around my village which I reckon the owners cut themselves.

On the one hand the customer is setting the spec and paying, on the other hand if like me you live in a small community the trees you've done are a kind of advert. I do believe you have to draw the line somewhere.

Funnily enough I've got this email today asking about a birch, can I do anything to improve its appearance by reshaping/lopping back. Don't know yet, need to see it in the flesh.

Dan, they DO tolerate pruning

Is it ideal? Probably not, but will the tree survive for a good time and give the client pleasure, shade and interest, yes.

Will it be a danger, no.

We have to stop pontificating to clients about about absolutes, it makes us look foolish.

 

Edited April 3, 2020 by Mick Dempsey