Rigging Advice

[mtt.tr]

Instead nylon slings ive always bought 100m of double braid rope and made up 28" loops make having 20x slings very affordable for speed lines i use marine screw gate carabineers again 20 only costs about £40

 

Couple lf isc swing pulleys as redirects 

A big snatch block 

Bollard. 

Ratchet straps are brilliant for bollard attachment. 

 

 

Im about to add a capstan winch into my kit really like the idea of being able to lift tips 

 

I would also like some rings, im thinking though i will make a load on the lathe, kills three birds one stone. 

I end up with as many rings as I can get from my ali off cuts 

I get to play with my hobby 

And i save a huge chunk of cash. 

 

I have a few bits to get having had a break on full time tree cutting i sold some bits, now kicking myself.  

 

Never sell anything. 

Edited August 12, 2020 by mtt.tr

[Khriss]

Lorry ratchet straps are a godsend. Pulling crowns in or temporary bracing for anchor points. Or holding knackered wood chipper together.  K

[Dan Maynard]

Instead nylon slings ive always bought 100m of double braid rope and made up 28" loops make having 20x slings very affordable for speed lines i use marine screw gate carabineers again 20 only costs about £40
 
Couple lf isc swing pulleys as redirects 
A big snatch block 
Bollard. 
Ratchet straps are brilliant for bollard attachment. 
 
 
Im about to add a capstan winch into my kit really like the idea of being able to lift tips 
 
I would also like some rings, im thinking though i will made a load on the lathe, kills three birds one stone. 
I end up with as many rings as I can get from my ali off cuts 
I get to play with my hobby 
And i save a huge chunk of cash. 
 
I have a few bits to get having had a break on full time tree cutting i sold some bits, now kicking myself.  
 
Never sell anything. 

I think that home made rings would best be sent for hard anodising or else the wear would be terrible. In my last place of work that was quite expensive, we used to send to Peterborough Plating and minimum order I think £100 but they would take as many pieces as fit in the tank for that so we would save bits up to send together.

Although I guess if the rings are cheap and they wear then you can just make some more.

[mtt.tr]

44 minutes ago, Dan Maynard said:

I think that home made rings would best be sent for hard anodising or else the wear would be terrible. In my last place of work that was quite expensive, we used to send to Peterborough Plating and minimum order I think £100 but they would take as many pieces as fit in the tank for that so we would save bits up to send together.

Although I guess if the rings are cheap and they wear then you can just make some more.

It will make for an interesting experiment, worse case i will fill them with weld return them and get them anodised, the cost of say. 6 big rings is at a price where i could be on to a winner. 

As i will grind form tooling i should be able to rattle them of pretty quick. 

[Jonny H]

I made a speed line kit pretty inexpensive by using bulk nylon tubular webbing and beer knots. There was a place selling steel ISC oval screwgates for about 6$ each. 

Got some rings, got some blocks and pulleys, they all got their place. Safebloc and triple hole thimble look neat, but unless it’s set right next to me I won’t be able to take a light piece in between the heavy pieces. No thanks. Maybe if I ever own a bucket truck I’ll get one.

 

[ArborOdyssey]

On 22/08/2020 at 21:44, Jonny H said:

I made a speed line kit pretty inexpensive by using bulk nylon tubular webbing and beer knots. There was a place selling steel ISC oval screwgates for about 6$ each. 

Got some rings, got some blocks and pulleys, they all got their place. Safebloc and triple hole thimble look neat, but unless it’s set right next to me I won’t be able to take a light piece in between the heavy pieces. No thanks. Maybe if I ever own a bucket truck I’ll get one.

 

LOL that's my go-to (ISC oval screwgates) they are great I even keep one on my saddle(on a backup prussik) as my 'paranoia biner' as I get more peace-of-mind from the steel, manual lock in some situations (I use a standard rock-O triple-lock aluminum as my primary so am not ignorant to the lighter aluminum alternatives it's just sometimes when you're uncomfortable and go to put a backup prussik or flipline out, that is when my Ice Cord w/ the ISC gets used, otherwise just great rigging biners   Love ISC as a company, wish they'd get on w/ friction hardware though.

 

 

Made my speedline loops using extra Mercury, 11mm kernmantle but 8.5k lbs ABS and 3.5% elongation from its nylon kern it's a stronger bullrope than plenty of the 1/2"'s offered so figured it'd be fine making loops and made pairs in lengths ~2.5' to 4', haven't been zipping often lately actually although am going to LA next week to work on storm-damage so expect plenty of use of them (and everything lol) then

 

On 12/08/2020 at 04:01, Rich Rule said:

Mainly because they are midline attachable.  Plus my rigging line has a knot in the end which I would have untie to every time.   

 

Rings are 'midline leave-able', though that doesn't do it for some people and I see what you mean Re a knot...I'd argue that basing your anchorage (blocks v friction-rings) on the tail-end of bullrope is completely backwards...splice that end so it slides through Lrg rings or otherwise overcome that issue, rather than base your anchorage around it, is how I see it (obviously whatever works for you works for you, of course)  Will say I'm very happy w/ my setup after making it all conform to "knotless rigging", I pass spliced 1/2 and 5/8 polydyne through rings, safebloc etc and love it and am real pleased w/ how long the splices are lasting on the abused ends, can definitely see use-cases where these would be shredded weekly and tied-ends are a fact of life although knotting ends doesn't negate usefulness of ring-based only your "line w/ knot in end", uncertain what kind of knot you've got on there that'd need un-/re-doing but imagine there's an easy enough way around it, seeing the way guys like Reg Coates, Lawrence Schultz, Dave Driver etc make use of friction-anchoring almost exclusively makes as strong a case for their superiority - in general - as any form of convincing I can think of...midline-leavable, having to put a lil more time into thinking-out the rigging setup instead of knowing you can freely move pulleys all-around, is a small price to pay IMO (and, obviously, in the opinion of the youtubers I just mentioned )  Having a log coming down, that you've gotta control, if there's a system/option (ringed/friction riggings) that automatically/inherently lowers the peak-forces that a given log is capable of generating as it comes down, that is game-changing over pulleys/blocks for control of negative-angle riggings.

[Rich Rule]

After 18 years climbing and rigging the blocks are what I am used to.  I use the rings for lightweight rigging.  I had to cut the splice off my 16mm polydine after a Groundy clipped it with a saw.  Luckily only about 1 metre from the splice.  I am not splicing it back up again as it is used and used ropes are a    bitch to do.

 

I am more than aware that the YouTube superstars use the rings.  They also use pulleys when needed.  I use rings when needed.

 

As an added point the pulleys make moveing and lifting wood with the tree a lot easier than rings.

 

The have their place but I still prefer the ability to add a pulley midline as and when required.

 

Each to their own, I guess.  
 

My decision is based on a great deal more than a knot in the end of my rigging line.

 

[ArborOdyssey]

On 02/09/2020 at 11:42, Rich Rule said:

After 18 years climbing and rigging the blocks are what I am used to.  I use the rings for lightweight rigging.  I had to cut the splice off my 16mm polydine after a Groundy clipped it with a saw.  Luckily only about 1 metre from the splice.  I am not splicing it back up again as it is used and used ropes are a    bitch to do.

 

I am more than aware that the YouTube superstars use the rings.  They also use pulleys when needed.  I use rings when needed.

 

As an added point the pulleys make moveing and lifting wood with the tree a lot easier than rings.

 

The have their place but I still prefer the ability to add a pulley midline as and when required.

 

Each to their own, I guess.  
 

My decision is based on a great deal more than a knot in the end of my rigging line.

 

As you say, to each their own... I do genuinely apologize for anywhere I may've come across combative or adversarial as that wasn't my intention, nor was it to insinuate "you should swap", in fact people who are long-term set in their ways are probably going to benefit(net) less than people figuring out what works for them and in fact it's in that context I expect people would most-find them superior (with you being as extremely opposite that as possible!)

Re moving&lifting, no disagreement there in fact I keep a 4" pulley on a swivel just for this (never drop wood into it) and also use my stiffer (1.4% 1/2") bullrope with that, as I want smooth/tense responsiveness from my rope there, the opposite of course being dropping-wood where I love my 5/8 nylon-cored Polydyne (3.5%) through enough rings&anchors to substantially lower its "perceived weight"(or, technically, it's peak-forces as experienced by tree & people on other end of the bullrope)  Really wish someone would quantify this, for instance using friction at your end-rig-point (a safebloc final anchor, for instance) is considered as "reduces forces to the tree" but I've never seen it quantified....can say that a 3-ringed anchor gives about 2-holes (safebloc holes) of friction

[ArborOdyssey]

On 02/09/2020 at 11:42, Rich Rule said:

Luckily only about 1 metre from the splice.  I am not splicing it back up again as it is used and used ropes are a    bitch to do.

Do you splice yourself?  IF so, am curious if you splice rigging rope differently?  I know it's off-topic but kinda mangled a polydyne splice (well the whole end of the rope,. used it to girth-hitch a trunk we were pulling-over and it got crushed by tree//pavement) anyway the whole splicing-rigging-ropes thing has me 2nd-guessing it as concept....I've been known to beat the "static versus dynamic strength" horse to death, but with splice-testing (or friction hitches, too) i've never seen consideration for shock-loading, when I splice double braid bullrope it's done differently than my climblines (insofar as I make the buries much longer, don't cut off as much for the tapers, etc) but still in a position of wishing I had the $$ to allow the time&material to make batches to send to Mumford for break-testing!

 

[and re splicing used rope...even w/ it being used, I never noticed the difference, feel oblivious because I've done blue moon and polydyne both new and used and, if anything, I'd have said used ropes were easier I never let any rope get "heavily used" though so maybe that's the distinction]

[Rich Rule]

@ArborOdyssey 

 

Hello mate.  Yes I splice myself.  Not for a while though. 
 

I don’t tend to do the splices any differently from climbing lines to Rigging.

 

BUT then again I don't tend to follow factory instructions.  I have never had any splices break tested but have discussed it at length with people who have.  A friend in the UK has slightly modified DB splices and had them tested, when I say modified I mean simplified.  Certain steps make the process of the taper and bury easier to pull and finish.  The new measurements  are far greater than the normal recommended fid length.

 

eg, 12mm climb line - 12 inch fid length.

 

16mm rigging line - 16 inch fid length.

 

As for the taper I would have to dig out my splicing book for the strand pattern for removal.

 

Used rope with a tight cover are a pain in the rear end.  I don’t splice hitch cord as it isn’t worth it IME, it makes the hitch cord a bit too stiff at the eye and affects the function of the hitch.

 

A couple of my splices.

 

I tend to do rigging splices with larger eyes, apart from the one in the picture as It was a request for a friend.  The theory being a bit more rope in the eye with allow a bit more loading than a tight eye.  (int the event of shock loading, but we all know and never do it ;))

Interested in hearing your thoughts on that.