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Jamie Jones

Rigging Advice

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Starting to build up a rigging kit and wondered what people would advice... I am looking at getting the right sling set up for up in the tree...

What would you guys advise?

Dead-Eye Sling and rigging block?https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/forum/31-rigging-and-roping/?do=add#
X-ring Sling
Whoopy sling?
HBM Whoopie sling adjustable with SafeBloc (Three eye friction block)

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Out of all of them I would use the safe bloc the most, it’s the most versatile and has the most point.. best tool for rigging compromised trees in my view.
Capable of stopping a decent lump too

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4 hours ago, MattyF said:

Out of all of them I would use the safe bloc the most, it’s the most versatile and has the most point.. best tool for rigging compromised trees in my view.
Capable of stopping a decent lump too

Safe block??? Couldn’t see it in the view do you have a picture please

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What would you guys advise?


HBM Whoopie sling adjustable with SafeBloc (Three eye friction block)

This one Jamie, vid should work , was just a quick clip of it in action with no other friction device , showing what it will do really...
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29 minutes ago, MattyF said:


This one Jamie, vid should work , was just a quick clip of it in action with no other friction device , showing what it will do really...

thanks... will google it

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I just finished setting up my kit late last year (well ordering everything and getting a feel for it, finally just went knotless this week)

 

Safebloc is worth the splurge for sure, am planning to get a 2nd one myself.

 

Rigging rings are also great -- friction-rigging is state-of-the-art rigging, and blocks are obsolete it's just not everybody knows it... when doing routine rigging you never say "It'd be cool if this piece came down w/ more force/speed" lol, yet using a friction-anchor instead of a block isn't seen as "duh"-level obvious to everybody yet, blows my mind :P 

 

I like thinking of friction-hardware as "brakes", solid-state brakes that're added to your system, you'd be amazed at the weights I could put onto my rope if it's going though the Bloc and two ringed-anchors, groundies can use 1 hand on things they'd normally have to wrestle it really is a huge difference.

 

Also consider pricing... unless your $$ allows you to go all-in right away, you'll have a skimpy block-based kit.   Ring based though?  Unsure if I even broke $500 on my system which is very heavy-duy & versatile... Elevation Canada sells XL rings for $75 a pair (free s&h) on ebay now, TEC is $1/ft on 5/8 which is great for log-slings if going knotless and $1.50/ft for 3/4 for your slings (and samson's instructionals are epic I've never missed a splice of any type using their guides, made my 9' Safebloc whoopie w/ their whoopie instructional it's so easy I'd urge someone considering it to *not* buy extra TEC "in case" because you *will* succeed on any TEC splices on 1st attempt w/ tools from your house / no specialty products) 

 

Buying a block is just silly though I mean if you look at rings and think "too lil bend-radius", remember the large Impact Block is just 3.15" wide sheave, my double-XL ringed-sling has a wider bend radius, a single Fiori's Ring does too, any double-headed ("boomer") ringed-slings, your bend-radius is often far better and having multiple slings allows simple multi-anchor-rigging (ie 1, or 4, ring-sling-redirects on trunk, in canopy etc) that are all "adding brakes" as well as spreading load!

 

And rope...would recommend atlas/polydyne first, then nystron, 5/8 for any of them.  Ideally you'd splice its end, get loose 5/8 TEC to make Ultraslings/eye-slings/etc for holding logs (that you clip your splice to) and you'd be able to use full strength of line ie in my system my weak-link is(as proper) my bull-rope at 19k for 5/8 polydyne, I had to downgrade to 2/3rd strength when using my line to knot, now that it's spliced and I can use full strength I'm going from 2/3 to 3/3 ie a *50%* gain, with that capacity being easily spread-out through the tree, w/ my rope-end kept off the rough bark of the logs I cut (oh and, of course, w/ the Safebloc on every load as terminal anchor, this'll let you rig a piece on a sketchy trunk and give that trunk less wiggle/bounce since the friction in the Bloc is subtracted from total peak force, it's inherently lower w/ a Safebloc which is better for every bit of gear in the system, easier on the groundie and safer for the climber/sawyer :)

 

Good luck!!  Can't advise enough to splice your own TEC, and to embrace modern friction-rigging / not buy a block!

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Some good advice above, you can do a lot natural crotch rigging too. Just run the rope through a fork, add friction and super quick to set up.
Blocks/pulleys have uses though. If you need to lift a branch, you don't want friction to make it harder.
Safebloc is great, but not mid line attachable.
You'll probably want several different rigging set ups eventually to cover all options, and use whichever one is best for that job.
All the best. Jan.

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I just finished setting up my kit late last year (well ordering everything and getting a feel for it, finally just went knotless this week)
 
Safebloc is worth the splurge for sure, am planning to get a 2nd one myself.
 
Rigging rings are also great -- friction-rigging is state-of-the-art rigging, and blocks are obsolete it's just not everybody knows it... when doing routine rigging you never say "It'd be cool if this piece came down w/ more force/speed" lol, yet using a friction-anchor instead of a block isn't seen as "duh"-level obvious to everybody yet, blows my mind  
 
I like thinking of friction-hardware as "brakes", solid-state brakes that're added to your system, you'd be amazed at the weights I could put onto my rope if it's going though the Bloc and two ringed-anchors, groundies can use 1 hand on things they'd normally have to wrestle it really is a huge difference.
 
Also consider pricing... unless your $$ allows you to go all-in right away, you'll have a skimpy block-based kit.   Ring based though?  Unsure if I even broke $500 on my system which is very heavy-duy & versatile... Elevation Canada sells XL rings for $75 a pair (free s&h) on ebay now, TEC is $1/ft on 5/8 which is great for log-slings if going knotless and $1.50/ft for 3/4 for your slings (and samson's instructionals are epic I've never missed a splice of any type using their guides, made my 9' Safebloc whoopie w/ their whoopie instructional it's so easy I'd urge someone considering it to *not* buy extra TEC "in case" because you *will* succeed on any TEC splices on 1st attempt w/ tools from your house / no specialty products) 
 
Buying a block is just silly though I mean if you look at rings and think "too lil bend-radius", remember the large Impact Block is just 3.15" wide sheave, my double-XL ringed-sling has a wider bend radius, a single Fiori's Ring does too, any double-headed ("boomer") ringed-slings, your bend-radius is often far better and having multiple slings allows simple multi-anchor-rigging (ie 1, or 4, ring-sling-redirects on trunk, in canopy etc) that are all "adding brakes" as well as spreading load!
 
And rope...would recommend atlas/polydyne first, then nystron, 5/8 for any of them.  Ideally you'd splice its end, get loose 5/8 TEC to make Ultraslings/eye-slings/etc for holding logs (that you clip your splice to) and you'd be able to use full strength of line ie in my system my weak-link is(as proper) my bull-rope at 19k for 5/8 polydyne, I had to downgrade to 2/3rd strength when using my line to knot, now that it's spliced and I can use full strength I'm going from 2/3 to 3/3 ie a *50%* gain, with that capacity being easily spread-out through the tree, w/ my rope-end kept off the rough bark of the logs I cut (oh and, of course, w/ the Safebloc on every load as terminal anchor, this'll let you rig a piece on a sketchy trunk and give that trunk less wiggle/bounce since the friction in the Bloc is subtracted from total peak force, it's inherently lower w/ a Safebloc which is better for every bit of gear in the system, easier on the groundie and safer for the climber/sawyer
 
Good luck!!  Can't advise enough to splice your own TEC, and to embrace modern friction-rigging / not buy a block!

Apart from agreeing the safe block is great for the situations you described I would disagree with the statement rigging blocks as obsolete!
Especially in the U.K. for tree work it any real technical rigging.
We are a small densely populated island and most of the gardens we work in have no access and trees are over targets , this is where pre tension rigging with pulleys comes in to its own and being able to fold stuff over with the help of a grcs or just hand power , no place for rigging rings there, unless it as a redirect in to a bollard drum.
Also they are not exactly a new thing, having used only topping strops and natural crutch rigging for the first 10 years of my climbing its only in the last 15 I’ve used blocks So too me it feels more of a reinvention of the wheel and a little backwards if any thing.
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On 24/03/2020 at 08:13, MattyF said:

Out of all of them I would use the safe bloc the most, it’s the most versatile and has the most point.. best tool for rigging compromised trees in my view.
Capable of stopping a decent lump too

Looks a bit of a wild day out in that wind.

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