clearview 500 Clearview 500 issues with over heating

[Chipperclown]

There's definitely something wrong somewhere then as my ones can be loaded and left for 1-2 days and still have embers. 

[Dan burner man]

Hi,

Just a thought. I have checked the door seal again, used a small piece of card and it's tight all way around. Would you replace the seal, see if that makes any difference? It's only 1 year old so can't see it being faulty already. 

 

Also, I did think of something else. My vision has an external air box as they said either have a vent or air box fitted. Would you say that could cause a leak into the stove if wrongly fitted?

[slim reaper]

With the fire cold stuff something up the flue to restrict it . Then light a smoke match or pellet in the stove and watch where the smoke escapes    https://www.toolstation.com/smoke-pellets/p38123?store=ON&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=Cj0KCQiArvX_BRCyARIsAKsnTxNV9kWuz88WnPYnVrosiFr1hT3-3m2UqbLBhIGtIV2T5d4v3Wd2qREaAkSzEALw_wcB

 

Edited January 12, 2021 by slim reaper
insert link

[bmp01]

Clearviews pointed to flue height - there some logic to that. The height of the flue directly affects the amount of draw the fire sees, its a strong factor that can turn a good stove into a crap one and vice-versa. Certainly a 4 storey flue is a little out of the norm. Presumably you've got a flue liner in the chimney, was it fully insulated too? Both will add to make the flue draw more strongly. Could be you have too much draw sucking excessive air through the stove....

 

Not sure about this in modern stoves but have you heard of or looked into having a flue damper fitted? Used to be common practice on old stoves, Rayburn cookers etc to have a flue damper which essentially blocks a big percentage of the flue pipe. That in turn reduces the 'suck' on the stove and slows everything down. Flue damper should only be operated once the flue is up to temperature.

Might be frowned upon in this world of 'clean burning' and 'health and safety' but used right it gives a further beneficial control.

  

Edited January 12, 2021 by bmp01
Better wording.

[slim reaper]

I addition to a damper slide Ive machined a circular hole out of a couple  Rayburn soot boxes and installed a counter balanced flap which can be fine tuned to the conditions. The flaps can also be fitted into the side opening of a flue "T" box just above the stove to do the same job.

[johnadudley]

For years I have had this problem.  Changing the rope, renewing cracked bricks, cleaning everything out has just been wasting money and my time.  I have the answer now and am so surprised no-one has got close to saying what we consumers should do!

So, get a torch.  Get down on the floor.  Look past the front long lever with a kind of paddle at the end that you push in and out to control the air flow, ignore the nut on that lever arm itself and find the hidden vertical bolt which is on a sprung washer and which is the mechanism that should hold the square paddle against the inlet holes!  Mine needed many turns to tighten it up against the underneath of the unit.  The paddle had obviously dropped down so that pushing the lever in and out had almost no effect at all - it was not tight against the inlet holes. Now it is like new.  You must do this!  Really!

[doobin]

29 minutes ago, johnadudley said:

For years I have had this problem.  Changing the rope, renewing cracked bricks, cleaning everything out has just been wasting money and my time.  I have the answer now and am so surprised no-one has got close to saying what we consumers should do!

So, get a torch.  Get down on the floor.  Look past the front long lever with a kind of paddle at the end that you push in and out to control the air flow, ignore the nut on that lever arm itself and find the hidden vertical bolt which is on a sprung washer and which is the mechanism that should hold the square paddle against the inlet holes!  Mine needed many turns to tighten it up against the underneath of the unit.  The paddle had obviously dropped down so that pushing the lever in and out had almost no effect at all - it was not tight against the inlet holes. Now it is like new.  You must do this!  Really!

It's bloody satisfying when you get to the bottom of a problem like this isn't it!

[Red fox monster]

I had this same problem of lots of air leaking in from somewhere else other than the obvious places, like the rope or front vent. I found that the paddle that covers the vent underneath the stove was flapping down at the back end and letting lots of air in. However, I wasn’t able to tighten that bolt any further - it was as tight as it could go. I found the solution was to remove that bolt and then bend the entire flat section of the metal paddle upwards so that when I put the bolt back on, the entirety of the metal paddle was pushed against the vent. It worked a treat and I can finally run my stove the way it’s supposed to function - yay!