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pdi check or just random sampling. was it worth it


wakefield tree surgeons
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1 hour ago, wakefield tree surgeons said:

Im sorry Mr garden kit,,  but i, and Many others may disagree with that statement,,,  

You go buy a new £1000.00 saw or any other cost,, give to me brand new in the box,, let me fuel it, then once its fired!!!! im going to put on full revs / flat out for 30 seconds. turn it off & then give it you,, and take your money.....   No oil test / brake test or what ever...!  

Would be happy with that...!   But Seddons plant (stihl) dealers find this exceptable...  & now its fucked i have to wait for the repair...

If Only i new a way to EXploit seddon plant...!  whooooo if only

I am sorry that you have have had this problem with your saw Mr Wakefield a Tree, and can't say I blame you for being a bit annoyed.

But these things do happen and it's how they are resolved that is important. The best way to get a positive outcome is speak calmly to the supplier and get them on your side. 

But I get the impression that you went in all guns blazing on Monday morning determined to do battle, whilst fuelled up with all sorts of advice from virtual bar room lawyers who had only listened to your side.

You evidently wound them up a little (o.k, maybe a lot) and I have my suspicions that their 2 month repair time may be as a result of this.

I have no connection with the company you dealt with, but know they have a good and longstanding reputation.

I also believe that this tirade on a public forum, and naming the company is pretty bad form, and unlikely to help your cause.

But I do hope you get a satisfactory outcome.

Edited by GardenKit
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If on a pdi they are revved up too quickly with next to no warm up time is this more likely to be a potential issue with M tronic models ?

i have just ordered a new saw having carefully chosen the model so don’t want premature wear so will be mentioning now to dealerships let it warm up for at least a few minutes before revving it to speed

 

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On 15/10/2019 at 23:30, lurkalot said:

Where did this theory come from.  What about the break-in period?

 

Accepted method nowadays is flat out from the start lots of revs then slow down and flat out again. Engines are built to closer tolerances and if they are run in gently the bores glaze and never bed in properly causing an engine to burn oil and lose compression.

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1 hour ago, peatff said:

 

Accepted method nowadays is flat out from the start lots of revs then slow down and flat out again. Engines are built to closer tolerances and if they are run in gently the bores glaze and never bed in properly causing an engine to burn oil and lose compression.

This I agree with . You need to vary the revs a lot to start with  . Its modern synth oils that dictate this . Remember 2 stokes burn oil anyway . What you are referring to is 4 strokes .  Some are of the opinion that on a 4stroke its best to work the engine gently to start with gradually building up the revs using a mineral oil to bed the rings in , then drain , change filter and refill with fully synth . 

Edited by Stubby
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On ‎15‎/‎10‎/‎2019 at 18:49, Sheepy said:

would do more harm letting them tick over when everything’s new and not mated yet..

I was more referring to the "doing more harm letting them tick over" part to be honest.  ;)   I mean it won't do any harm to warm them up at slow speed, and you should let them idle for a bit before turning them off as well.

 

Actually, I wonder how many Stihl owners actually read the manual that come with it, and if they do read it, actually take any notice of what it says. ;) 

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