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Sugi hara bar

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8 hours ago, Cut4fun said:

So you guys breaking the sugi LW bars over there? 

 

Been seeing some posted over the years and now a video. 

 

I like the Tsu bars myself.  Dealer told me he sees way less Tsu breaking compared to what he called common problem with the sugi LW bars.

I've only seen breaks on the longer(30"+) bars used in logging. They are very hard from the factory, and this might make them a bit too brittle for proper manhandling is my guess.

 

 

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I'm quite put off by cheap bar and chain deals like those Kox.eu offer.
The bars may come with 4 or 5 chains but my bars only seem to last 2-3 chains before wearing renders them useless.
I'm using Aspen chain oil which I have done since 2011.

 Stuart


Bloody hell that’s seriously hard on bars. Could it be something to do with the Aspen chain oil?

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15 minutes ago, Baldbloke said:

 


Bloody hell that’s seriously hard on bars. Could it be something to do with the Aspen chain oil?

I would say more like a heat treatment issue .  A husky bar for example would bend there and take a set , it being softer . 

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Sugihara and Tsumura are a bit out of my league for back yard firewood cutting. I bought a 20" Wartec with two chains for my 044 and I hit some metal damaging a couple of teeth on a chain and caused a tight spot in the bar. A bit of prising with a flat screwdriver and some work with a riffler file soon had it freed up and back in action.

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7 hours ago, wyk said:

I've only seen breaks on the longer(30"+) bars used in logging. They are very hard from the factory, and this might make them a bit too brittle for proper manhandling is my guess.

 

 

Thats the break I was talking about.   Cracks at mount area or right off like those.

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Putting a very small slice in the tail ( at the end of the bar mount slot) of both the Sugi and Tsu will give far more movement in the bar and help and pretty much stop those failures. There is a reason that most of the other bars have this "slice" i.e. Oregon, Cannon etc. I have a handful of  Tsu  that I have use on a full time basis and no problems apart from a couple of tips. The one 28" that I didn't alter as above did develop a nice crack after a few months. I've found the Sugi tips just to brittle and for my work just not up to it, bar ok but the tips just start to break up very quickly. 

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I was looking at one of my Oregon bars with that cut at back and wondered if that tail mount cut would help those longer sugi bars breaking and cracking.  

You might be onto something to save folks bars. 

 

 

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I had a older Tsu bar 37" 119dl  (sold as 36") that came off a guys 2095 that ran it hard.  It was still a great bar for me and then traded to a guy later to be used on his mill set up.

 

Notice the ole tip was 6 rivet.

 

 

p475119dl.JPG

p475119dlz.JPG

Edited by Cut4fun
add sold

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1 hour ago, Cut4fun said:

I was looking at one of my Oregon bars with that cut at back and wondered if that tail mount cut would help those longer sugi bars breaking and cracking.  

You might be onto something to save folks bars. 

 

 

Stihl bars are differentially treated, but can be rather hard. I have had many chip along the railing. Oregon bars are differentially heat treated as well, but they also use a 4000 series of steel that is tougher, if less hard(more rail wear, less brittle). Sugi, Tsumu, and Stihl have more vanadium and a few other elements that promote harder(and more expensive) steel. I don't think Sugi or Tsumura do a differential treatment. I've seen Stihl bars break in half where some Oregon bars would simply bend. As with all things - it's all in the compromise.

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IMO the Tsumura are marginally Better regarding wear and slightly less friction in the rails and sprocket nose.
But ask the seller About weight, stiffnes !
He Also have files for square filing,  look in the PFERD drop down menu

Square filling i saw it the files explain please have only used the round

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