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New barrel and piston for Husky 365


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The Husqvarna 266, which  I replaced the pot and piston on with a used one I had, has proved too difficult for my mate's daughter to start so now I've brought away an MS181 which is a non runner. Before I lash out £10 on a new primer bulb (it's split) is there any chance it will  run if I  cut it out of circuit with a piece of pipe? Just to not have to throw good money after bad.

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The Husqvarna 266, which  I replaced the pot and piston on with a used one I had, has proved too difficult for my mate's daughter to start so now I've brought away an MS181 which is a non runner. Before I lash out £10 on a new primer bulb (it's split) is there any chance it will  run if I  cut it out of circuit with a piece of pipe? Just to not have to throw good money after bad.
Possibly yes. The prime bulbs are not a tenner thought, I got 10 for a few quid off Ebay. PM me your address and I'll post you one if you want
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37 minutes ago, billpierce said:
9 hours ago, openspaceman said:
The Husqvarna 266, which  I replaced the pot and piston on with a used one I had, has proved too difficult for my mate's daughter to start so now I've brought away an MS181 which is a non runner. Before I lash out £10 on a new primer bulb (it's split) is there any chance it will  run if I  cut it out of circuit with a piece of pipe? Just to not have to throw good money after bad.

Possibly yes. The prime bulbs are not a tenner thought, I got 10 for a few quid off Ebay. PM me your address and I'll post you one if you want

The bulb does not seem to separate from the body of the pump which has the two fuel pipe connections, its not like the bulb on my old hedgecutter which you could change by undoing two screws. Or am I missing something?

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1 hour ago, openspaceman said:

The bulb does not seem to separate from the body of the pump which has the two fuel pipe connections, its not like the bulb on my old hedgecutter which you could change by undoing two screws. Or am I missing something?

Yes I'd assumed it was the same as some other saws. My bad. 

 

Still Ebay yields some cheaper options 

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33 minutes ago, billpierce said:

Yes I'd assumed it was the same as some other saws. My bad. 

 

Still Ebay yields some cheaper options 

No problem, I'll clean it all up and then see if it fires at all with fuel in the intake before I start playing.

 

These cheapened saws for the home owner market are seldom worth putting much cost or effort into

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23 hours ago, Ratman said:

Spud, got an 044 with a big end gone. Have you ever sent your cranks away for a repair / replacement on the big end (and possibly con rod if its been affected) or do you just render them scrap?

I did get a call a while ago from someone offering crank rebuilds but usually try to get an OEM crank new of second user fitted. Used some aftermarket ones but have horror stories on MS660s so tend to swerve that option.

So, I scrap the old crank and fit new OEM but scrap the saw if costs are too high - there are even things I can't bring back to life!

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I did get a call a while ago from someone offering crank rebuilds but usually try to get an OEM crank new of second user fitted. Used some aftermarket ones but have horror stories on MS660s so tend to swerve that option.
So, I scrap the old crank and fit new OEM but scrap the saw if costs are too high - there are even things I can't bring back to life!

It is a thought i’ve pondered on for a while, dont suppose he offered you a rough price did he?
We have a engineering place we use at work for cylinder head work, valves, boring out and re-sleeving etc, wondered about asking their thoughts.

What are your thoughts on saws that are used for milling, do you think they suffer from oil starvation regards the bearings due to the saw permanently being on its side?
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Not really thought about the saw being on its side during milling but the fuel oil vapour is being forced through the bottom end through vacuum and pressure so gravity should have a negligible effect on the bearings.

I really cant be bothered to have any long winded ways of trying to save a saw worth a few hundred quid. If it was a Bugatti, or vintage Aston Martin then it would be different but if there is an OEM part available for £200 or a refurbed one for £70 (or whatever), I haven't got the time or inclination to bust a gut for the £130 difference.

I did get a price at the time but it is easier to wait for an OEM part to come up on ebay or just fit a new one, life is too short! 

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Few people mill using less than 25:1 or 32:1. I think a guy I knew in oregon uses 16:1. Milling is the toughest thing on a chainsaw you can do short of giving your saw to me back when I was 19.

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6 hours ago, wyk said:

Few people mill using less than 25:1 or 32:1. I think a guy I knew in oregon uses 16:1. Milling is the toughest thing on a chainsaw you can do short of giving your saw to me back when I was 19.

But as we all know, running an oil rich mix means the saw will overheat as it will be running lean:cursing::w00t::angryfire::011::goodnight:

Does any one really get this?????????

Sorry Wes, been around the houses on this damn subject and you are backing up what I believe!

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