Trouser Classification

[disagree]

I have heard a lot of people complain about how the anti-kickback raised drive links on chains slow the cutting speed through the wood.

Can the type of chain you use affect which trouser classification is most suitable?

I presume the chain speed of a saw is calculated not under load and travelling as fast as the saw will allow it to.

Edited January 16, 2019 by disagree

[jamallio96]

I have heard a lot of people complain about how the anti-kickback raised drive links on chains slow the cutting speed through the wood.
Can the type of chain you use affect which trouser classification is most suitable?
I presume the chain speed of a saw is calculated not under load and travelling as fast as the saw will allow it to.

It's extremely unlikely that you'll cut into your trousers whilst the saw is at full load with the chain cutting wood, as the wood is between the chain and all of your soft fleshy bits. It's most likely that, in the terribly unfortunate event of cutting into your trousers, the chain will be running freely, often (though hopefully not) at or near full speed.
Therefore you'd be best to wear trousers (and boots) rated for the chain speed stated by the manufacturers of whatever saw your using.
And please try very hard not to cut yourself with a chainsaw! :-P

[Khriss]

To be fair, protective saw boots n trousers are yr last gasp, they really only stop the chain dead  off-throttle , as if you trip or saw slips out yr hands. Seen a 462 Stihl roar thru a pair ( with log stuffed in leg ) k

[peatff]

I think you are feeding a troll here lads, the name doesn't really encourage answers.

[Khriss]

40 minutes ago, peatff said:

I think you are feeding a troll here lads, the name doesn't really encourage answers.

........an when has That ever stopped us before K

 

 

( he might learn summat ;P  )

[wyk]

Chainsaw trousers work by clogging the sprocket, forcing a jam. The more powerful the saw is and the longer the bar is, the more likely it may defeat the protection. Having said that, I have used kevlar straps in a lot of applications stateside for hauling equipment. It is very difficult to cut kevlar with even the sharpest knife or razor. So a powerful saw isn't likely to actually cut the fibres so much as power through longer before it jams. Be mindful out there, folks.

[Craig Johnson]

bar length has nothing to do with chain speed.

[wyk]

55 minutes ago, Craig Johnson said:

bar length has nothing to do with chain speed.

Well, it does and it doesn't, but that's a different debate.

 

My point is with a longer bar, it takes longer for the kevlar threads to become wrapped up in the sprocket - disabling the saw. This means there is more chain that can gather the kevlar, and more of an opportunity for the chain to defeat the protection before the saw is jammed. On a large, powerful saw at full blast, it's something that can make a difference. On a 12-24" bar on your typical makes used in the UK, likely not.

[Stubby]

Actually it depends on were the chain contacts the strides . If it is a couple of inches from the bucking dawgs on the under side the bar can be twenty feet long it will still be as quick as a 13" bar in the same position .  Also a longer bar saps a little power so chain speed might be a tad slower for a given sprocket size .

[wyk]

2 hours ago, Stubby said:

Actually it depends on were the chain contacts the strides . If it is a couple of inches from the bucking dawgs on the under side the bar can be twenty feet long it will still be as quick as a 13" bar in the same position .  Also a longer bar saps a little power so chain speed might be a tad slower for a given sprocket size .