Bore cut failed. What did I do wrong?

[scotspine1]

Darrin, the cut on the left, few years ago, I'd planned to use it on a very big diameter Oak 6/7ft diam with heavy lean in fall direction but eventually talked the client in to retaining the tree and carrying out a big crown reduction instead.

 

Both cuts are in this vid, the T cut for heavy leaners at 3.00

 

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[MattyF]

The last thing I would do (from experience) is start another cut under it..........

[drinksloe]

Loads of decent advice above for getting ur bar out, either ratchet strap/rope the stem and or finish the cut just slightly above.

 

If i was going to re gub it i would go a good bit higher and angle it so its suiting both leans.

 

Frm ur photos it looks like there is plenty of space around the bar on the saw side?

If so does the tree lean towards the tip side?

If so u could off done a partial cut on that side 1st (which i suppose is a bit like that daigram of the 'T' section) so when u bore in from the side u did u don't need to put ur saw as far across.

But on small trees it's very hard as ur only taking 1/2" differences

 

Or is the tree starting to split and barbers chair?

Sometimes just before the trees split i think the back end pushes down and then out first before pivoting

 

As has been said samll trees are a pain, usually in a small heavily leaning tree i put an oversived gub and just back cut but really depens on the tree and someties u stil get it wrong too.

[MattyF]

The last thing I would do (from experience) is start another cut under it..........

 

 

What I meant by that is start another felling cut below or above.. by all means finish your back cut above or below but with that amount of tension with the lean already on the stem starting any new felling cut will more than likely develop in to the cuts splitting up and meeting like a giant step cut.

[Stubby]

What I meant by that is start another felling cut below or above.. by all means finish your back cut above or below but with that amount of tension with the lean already on the stem starting any new felling cut will more than likely develop in to the cuts splitting up and meeting like a giant step cut.

 

Even at ground level ? (were I would have cut in the first instance ) Not knocking your advice Matty , just what I would do wrongly or rightly

[drinksloe]

I think i'm with wot matty say's if u start another felling cut u generally have more room above it than below it, as there will be a good chance of the 2 cuts joining if too close

 

Also when ur working the cut ur in a better position to watch it and clear out rather than bent over working a cut close to the deck

[Stubby]

I think i'm with wot matty say's if u start another felling cut u generally have more room above it than below it, as there will be a good chance of the 2 cuts joining if too close

 

Also when ur working the cut ur in a better position to watch it and clear out rather than bent over working a cut close to the deck

 

The picture on post #10 shows at least a foot of untouched stem . If the initial cut was going to fail it surely would have done by now . Once it goes over , doing it the way I suggested , you may find it articulates around the failed cut but you will be out of the way any how . when it hits the deck it may separate at the initial cut containing the stuck bar but hey , so what . Just me .

[MattyF]

I've seen cuts split up 3-5ft when I've my self and others ballsed a ground level cut up and repositioned it much higher,most times it will go alright like you say stubby but it's an unnecessary risk... just like felling a leaning tree with out boring in and the risk of barbers chair.

[slack ma girdle]

Tree is dead and trunk has absorbed a lot of water so I guess the henge must have collapsed as the tree leaned towards the tip of the saw.

I do not want to do the same mistake tomorrow.

What will be the best way to plan my cut to free the husky bar.

You have just answered your own question, and learn from it.

Could have you done anything different, probably not.

Everyone will have been in this situation, but a skilled tree feller will known how to get themselves sorted.

My general rule of thumb is if the trunk is less than your bar length then double V or face cut. If the trunk is bigger than your bar, then dogs tooth cut.

Except that with leaning and rotten trees thing will go wrong.

 

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[Hunter]

Go in with a sharp saw a few inches above and cut fast! Keep on your toes.

Thkanks every body for helping me.

I have sorted it today and all went well, I was tempted to start a new cut with larger notch slightly to the right where the tree has pinched the bar but then It would become a hung up tree.

At the end I went as per advice above and just cut fast and was ready to run away. And it did work.

In close inspection I found that the holding wood did collapse where the bar was pinched, tree was rot and wood was weaken but also it was my fault as the the holding wood was thinner in that side, and more important the tree has another lean in that direction and it is very tall tree so the weight must have been too much for such holding wood. I guess I must have accidentally cut some of the holding wood because the bar was slightly shorter and I must accidentally moved it slightly forward.