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Mccolloch CS50S experiences?


neiln
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A bit surprised it hasn't been mentioned earlier .... too obvious maybe ???

[emoji23] [emoji23] it's a £200 saw and you want to put fuel at £3+ a litre in it to save potentially degrading a fuel line (which I don't believe in anyway as had saws last years on regular red stihl oil mix with no fuel line problems) that would cost under a tenner to replace!!

 

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[emoji23] [emoji23] it's a £200 saw and you want to put fuel at £3+ a litre in it to save potentially degrading a fuel line (which I don't believe in anyway as had saws last years on regular red stihl oil mix with no fuel line problems) that would cost under a tenner to replace!!

 

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neiln wants a 'turn key' saw, that's stored for long periods between minimal amounts of use. Classic carb killer. I'd hope long life fuel would protect more than just fuel hoses. He's not going to be using vast quantities of the stuff so yes it's expensive per litre but in the overall scheme of things it might save him some aggravation and a few repair bills. Just my thoughts.

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I was waiting for Aspen too. I've read about fuel problems. I always always store my stihl empty. I buy 99 ron fuel as it is usually ethanol free (dad has a classic motorcycle and some members of his club have researched this in detail). I add fuel stabilizer and i use the stihl green 2 stroke oil which i believe contains another stabilizer, and fr jones recommended when i bought the saw. I also store my fuel in an aluminium can to reduce the loss of volatiles vs storing in a plastic container. So far Ive not had any trouble, fingers crossed.

 

I process 6 to 7 m3 of firewood and run my ms180 through around 3 litres a year, that's about 10 to 12 hours use. No i won't wear out a decent saw in many years, but I do want to be able to pull the saw from the shelf, fuel and oil it (actually i store it full of chain oil, I read that was better) and use it. I don't want to find it won't start or run. If it dos suffer trouble, a blocked carb or degraded fuel line, I want to be able to get a new line, a carb kit or replacement carb easily and cheaply. Beyond that what might I need? a replacement air filter, a coil, a spark plug, some rope for the starter, these won't be a problem to get I'd hope, as these aren't specific to the saw. However it would be annoying if something saw specific broke or got broken and couldn't be replaced. If i do go into fr jones and ask about the mccolloch, what spares should i ask if they are able to get? if it needed a replacement piston or pot would I bother? not sure.

 

Oh and I noticed in the specs of the poulan pro, its EPA rating is (IIRC) 'intermediate- should be emissions compliant for 50 hours'. I dont know whether that just means after that sort of time it needs some servicing and a retune, or if the thing is starting to get worn out in that time. I'd hope the former.

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neiln wants a 'turn key' saw, that's stored for long periods between minimal amounts of use. Classic carb killer. I'd hope long life fuel would protect more than just fuel hoses. He's not going to be using vast quantities of the stuff so yes it's expensive per litre but in the overall scheme of things it might save him some aggravation and a few repair bills. Just my thoughts.

 

This . :001_smile: I am retired from full time cutting now but still have all of my saws ( except 3120 ) So have gone over to Aspen . Now I have no concerns when pulling out a saw that has not been used for 6 months and firing it strait up . I recon they run better on it anyway .

Edited by Stubby
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while conversations about how fuel can kill a saw* are useful, unless Aspen can double the power of my ms180 it wont give me a saw capable of pulling an 18" bar. I'd love to here that its fuel problems that kill 100% of cheap saws too, in which case I'd buy some China special and a gallon or 2 of Aspen and be happy, but i think thats too optimistic.

 

*just for completeness, standard fuel does several things that make life tough for occasional use engines. first the volatile components which aid starting evaporate, making it hard to start a saw on older fuel. combat by using aspen or using fresh fuel or ensure fuel is stored in an air tight and metal canister, as the volatiles are small enough to diffuse through plastic cans. Next problem is the aromatic compounds in regular fuel which slowly degrade to form gums and varnishes which clog carbs etc. combat by using aspen or store your saw empty. fuel stabilizers also help, they slow the rate of aromatic breakdown. finally ethanol in fuel can be a problem in 2 ways, attacking some rubbers and plastics destroying fuel lines etc and by absorbing water. if enough water is absorbed the ethanol settles out of the fuel as a jelly, striping octane as it goes and clogging fuel lines with the jelly. combat by using aspen or by avoiding ethanol containing fuels. 95 ron contains ethanol (IIRC ir 10%) by law. The law doesn't apply to premium fuels and although the exact amount varies by brand and location, they generally contain none, or a lot less. Plus of course, store the saw empty. Finally Aspen may also deliver other benefits such as health. However Aspen costs 3 times or more what pump fuel costs and isn't as freely available. Think that covers it ;)

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returning to topic, if i go to fr jones and enquire about spares for the CS50S, what is a fair spares list to be able to get hold of? I'd assume plug, fuel line, starter rope and probably air filter can be easily found as not saw specific, also probably coil. Carb and or carb refurb kit, essential. pistons, pots plastics would be pretty impressive and maybe unnecessary for a cheap saw. Is there something that is perhaps an essential spare that I've missed?

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returning to topic, if i go to fr jones and enquire about spares for the CS50S, what is a fair spares list to be able to get hold of? I'd assume plug, fuel line, starter rope and probably air filter can be easily found as not saw specific, also probably coil. Carb and or carb refurb kit, essential. pistons, pots plastics would be pretty impressive and maybe unnecessary for a cheap saw. Is there something that is perhaps an essential spare that I've missed?

 

I don't know the answer to your questions. I think the third post probably gave the most applicable answer :001_smile:

I am a little confused though, because you sound like you are now prepared to do some work to keep your proposed saw alive and kicking, so why not go for a branded secondhand saw with decent parts backup ? You can get a very nice saw for 200 and you are clearly up for a bit of homework .

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I don't know the answer to your questions. I think the third post probably gave the most applicable answer :001_smile:

I am a little confused though, because you sound like you are now prepared to do some work to keep your proposed saw alive and kicking, so why not go for a branded secondhand saw with decent parts backup ? You can get a very nice saw for 200 and you are clearly up for a bit of homework .

I would definitely do this. Plenty 50/60/70cc used saws with full parts back up out there for less rohan you'd think. Keep an eye out for makita/dolmar, echo, tanaka and youmight find something good.

 

If your wanting to step up to 18"I'd suggest 60cc plus. I suspect asking a cheap 45cc/50cc saw to bury a large bar is also asking for it to break

 

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I'm an engineer and know enough about engines and 2 strokes to know what might break, but I don't have experience fixing them nor the knowledge on a range of saws to know what to look for to avoid buying a pup, which is why I'm not keen on bidding a few hundred quid on a used...errr ...ms027? ms036? or some variant.

 

Point me at a deal on a 50cc or larger Stihl (preferably) or Husky, for £200ish, in guaranteed good nick other than a coil, plug, fuel line or carb and I'd be interested.

 

Knowing I could get the spares to get a simple failure on a saw, or rather to get it fixed, rather than have to bin it for the want of a coil, length of fuel line or a carb (i'm guessing 3 of the most common saw failures), is a bit different to being willing to strip a saw and replace bearings or a piston damaged because its been run lean.

 

as for which saw, maybe you are right bill, this was part of my reasoning for starting this thread, is it asking too much from a cheap saw to pull a 18" bar and not break? When I found the poulan pro 5020 getting good reviews from users I was sceptical. Have a look though, arboristsite.com has numerous threads on the saw and although its not perfect it

seems to pull a 20" bar ok and be reliable.

 

I'd rather have a nice used stihl though, yes indeed.

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