Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

Crane tuition wanted..


benedmonds
 Share

Recommended Posts

Just remember that once a piece is cut, the crane has it... There is no test lift (the crane driver can't start to lift and simply let the tension off/lower it back to the floor if too heavy). Who's insuring the job if the crane falls over? Is it a contract lift (I would seriously suggest it is if you are new to this)?.

You should have a lift plan in place (however basic). The amount of weight a crane can lift is determined largely by the radius of the hook from the slew ring - ideally you know this before the crane even gets to site so you can plan the job safely.

Once rigged the driver will be able to tell you what weight he's good for when he has his hook over the piece you want to chop off. Work to half of that weight as a maximum - it is difficult to accurately guess the weight of timber. Start with small pieces and work your way up - as previously mentioned you'll soon get a feel for the weight of timber. If the alarm goes off at any point you have done something wrong - you don't want sirens/flashing lights etc etc!

Also remember that timber is incredibly strong under tension - it is amazing how a small uncut sliver will hold a piece of timber to the tree. This is where a driver with tree experience is invaluable - if they keep pulling at a piece that hasn't been completetly severed it will eventually go with a bang that will make everyone on site poo their pants...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Log in or register to remove this advert

  • Replies 24
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just remember that once a piece is cut, the crane has it... There is no test lift (the crane driver can't start to lift and simply let the tension off/lower it back to the floor if too heavy). Who's insuring the job if the crane falls over? Is it a contract lift (I would seriously suggest it is if you are new to this)?.

You should have a lift plan in place (however basic). The amount of weight a crane can lift is determined largely by the radius of the hook from the slew ring - ideally you know this before the crane even gets to site so you can plan the job safely.

Once rigged the driver will be able to tell you what weight he's good for when he has his hook over the piece you want to chop off. Work to half of that weight as a maximum - it is difficult to accurately guess the weight of timber. Start with small pieces and work your way up - as previously mentioned you'll soon get a feel for the weight of timber. If the alarm goes off at any point you have done something wrong - you don't want sirens/flashing lights etc etc!

Also remember that timber is incredibly strong under tension - it is amazing how a small uncut sliver will hold a piece of timber to the tree. This is where a driver with tree experience is invaluable - if they keep pulling at a piece that hasn't been completetly severed it will eventually go with a bang that will make everyone on site poo their pants...

 

And a driver with verbal diarrhoea

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Appreciate the advice guys, is no one willing to do an easy sunday on the ground...? We are in the middle of the country not that far from anywhere? Good day rate..:001_smile:

 

Honestly Ben I'd be asking what crane company/driver is reccomended in the area, get the driver out to have a look at the site.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't always put the chains up high, I find closer to the balance point on leaning stems is vital as the butt won't swing when you are standing it up.

 

Its better to Set the ball ever so slightly away from you when slinging so when the piece releases it doesn't come back at you.

 

I pre tension to aprox 100 or 200 kgs less than what i think the piece weighs and then cut.

Reading the cut as you go is important because you can adjust the tension accordingly

If you think the chains are not set quite how you'd like when you have your pre tension... get the driver to add some more on to check that the chains won't pop or a branch won't break and then get him or her to release and go back down the agreed pre tension.

 

Its very important not put more on than the piece weighs as it will pop off the cut and drop directly into the crane, slightly less is ideal.

 

don't bother pre slinging your tree as its just extra time you should spend learning how to correctly set your chains.

 

I've found chains to be what i prefer, that or a combo of chains and spider legs.

 

There should be very clear communication between you and the driver , you should work with one another and respect what one another says.

 

Don't rush anything , aim for perfect balance and perfect picks, with little or no movement.

 

most importantly keep calm and have fun:thumbup1:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


  •  

  • Featured Adverts

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.