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Husqvarna U.K. = a dam joke!!!


AllyH
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That's the page I'm on Don.

 

Also when I've asked a few people who've had bother about setting the saw up initially as per the manual it's pretty obvious they've used it to wipe their arses with rather than reading it.

 

 

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That's cos they are saw experts Mark 😂😂😂😂

 

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All this talk of resetting auto tune, I'm sorry but that's not how the system works. The system is constantly tuning every second just start it and use it. Taking the spark arrestor out does not mean you then have to go and cut disks!!

 

AFAIK the autotune will only start tuning under full throttle and under load ie running somewhere between the 9000-11500 RPM range? I usually advise customers to use the saw and if it isnt running right after that do the 3-5 min cutting procedure, never usually hear back from them again, until they flood it which is easily the most common 'problem' with huskys.:001_smile:

 

to the OP, if it is still having idling issues (although this has probably been done and checked) replace the spark plug, make sure the gap is spot on (0.5mm) and check the ignition coil to flywheel gap (0.25-0.3mm)

 

I have came accross quite a few stihl and husky mtronic/autotune saws that have had poor idling and it has been down to poor gaping, mainly on the spark plug and the odd time too big a gap on the coil.

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AFAIK the autotune will only start tuning under full throttle and under load ie running somewhere between the 9000-11500 RPM range? I usually advise customers to use the saw and if it isnt running right after that do the 3-5 min cutting procedure, never usually hear back from them again, until they flood it which is easily the most common 'problem' with huskys.:001_smile:

 

to the OP, if it is still having idling issues (although this has probably been done and checked) replace the spark plug, make sure the gap is spot on (0.5mm) and check the ignition coil to flywheel gap (0.25-0.3mm)

 

I have came accross quite a few stihl and husky mtronic/autotune saws that have had poor idling and it has been down to poor gaping, mainly on the spark plug and the odd time too big a gap on the coil.

 

Sorry, yes should have been more clear, full throttle between 8000-12000RPM are the settings. The engine tunes via the rpm info received from the ignition module after each lean out test, approximately once a second. The module carries on the lean out test cycle until maximum power is achieved. This of course is dependant on load, fuel type, altitude, humidity ect. The point I was trying to make was you cant set the saw up by cutting disks and keep it at that setting like you can with a manual carb because obviously autotune is constantly tuning so your not resetting anything its just tunning to the conditions you put it under which it measures every second between the two rev ranges

Edited by Sveriges
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All this talk of resetting auto tune, I'm sorry but that's not how the system works. The system is constantly tuning every second just start it and use it. Taking the spark arrestor out does not mean you then have to go and cut disks!!

 

Kinda what I thought ( and said ):001_smile:

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Had my 560 for over two years and it starts every time as follows..

Cold... 3 primer pumps, 2 pulls on choke (splutter) 1 pull choke off to start.

Warm.. 1 pull with choke off to start.

Have never known any saw in 10 years to start so consistently.

Except... if I let someone else use it. Somehow it knows, and struggles to start.

 

 

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I can't believe not being able to start a brand of chainsaw is actually a real problem if I was one of these professionals who are struggling so much with starting a husqvarna I would be embarrassed

 

Sent from my SM-G930F using Arbtalk mobile app

 

So people can, some just can't:confused1:

 

Personally never had any problems with them.

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