Fleabay 560xp

[Acer Forestry]

The year Matty, I don't know- where on the unit is it? If a saw looks in good shape and not bashed / abused and obviously commercialled to hell, I'll take a chance, within reason. to my mind it's overall hours worked, and not just the YOM

[Stubby]

Yes- any reasonable 18 bar and the sprocket, and there's at least 45 quid gone.

 

Brand new rim sprocket £8.98 free postage on the bay . Ozak 18" bar ( not sure of quality ) £18.90 also free postage . Search Husqvarna 560XP parts .

Edited January 26, 2017 by Stubby

[Acer Forestry]

Ok. I'll take the flywheel off when I get chance and see if there is any obvious obstruction. But as either you or Spud said earlier, a. It is not as described and b.if there is any bottom end issues, it is a basket case

[Stubby]

Ok. I'll take the flywheel off when I get chance and see if there is any obvious obstruction. But as either you or Spud said earlier, a. It is not as described and b.if there is any bottom end issues, it is a basket case

 

Oh . Absolutely .

[treequip]

Ok. I'll take the flywheel off when I get chance and see if there is any obvious obstruction.

 

That's a bad idea if you are going to send it back

[peatff]

Actually arrived with no bar, pop the chain brake off and it looks like it hasn't been cleaned, or run, for at least six months. My mate is a garden machinery mechanic and has looked it over, and it's evident it will actually run and even sounds ok, but the motor is over-tight on the recoil and quite often you struggle to even get the cord to go half way without it jamming (the biggest concern), and the drive sprocket is knackered. There is some wear to the recoil assembly, but what isn't clear is the jamming / tightening on the pull, the mechanic has suggested it's probably the bearings are knackered. If the recoil was just not working on every pull, surely it would slip, not tighten?

 

Have you taken the recoil off and tried turning the flywheel with the nut in the middle ? Motor over tight on the recoil just sounds like good compression if it runs o.k. and saying it's probably knackered bearings is a bit of a shot in the dark. Send it back and get a bid on another if you think you can do better for the money. Make sure you go and see before you buy if you don't want to take any chances.

Edited January 26, 2017 by peatff
afterthought.

[Acer Forestry]

Have you taken the recoil off and tried turning the flywheel with the nut in the middle ? Motor over tight on the recoil just sounds like good compression if it runs o.k. and saying it's probably knackered bearings is a bit of a shot in the dark. Send it back and get a bid on another if you think you can do better for the money. Make sure you go and see before you buy if you don't want to take any chances.

 

 

Yes, have tried turning manually as said in earlier post. Motor is not just over tight, I need to stress that- it actually stops half way on the pull. Good compression is one thing, but that's obviously not right.

[MattyF]

The year Matty, I don't know- where on the unit is it? If a saw looks in good shape and not bashed / abused and obviously commercialled to hell, I'll take a chance, within reason. to my mind it's overall hours worked, and not just the YOM

 

 

On the serial number I think it's the first few digits , basically if it is one of the first gen 560's you could have problems with the bottom end the later models had another crank bolt added as the early ones kept sucking in gaskets and other issues... mine went with a bang the good side was Husqvarna do a new style 560 ready built short block very cheap I forget the price though.

[Mark_Skyland]

I paid 250, the going rate for a second hand, up and running 560 is def that or more, so had it actually been ok and with a bar, it'd be perfectly acceptable at that money. Thing is, we all knock ebay but you can get some cracking stuff at sensible money and some very good saws (going by feedback left) have sold on there recently.

But as far as Skyland's post goes, fair comment about the possibility of a minor problem that is easily fixed, but how about the knackered sprocket- how much would you charge to replace that too? It's all time and grief sorting this out when I should be working

 

I agree, its not worth throwing good money at a bad saw, just hoping it was something simple. As others have said you would be looking at about £30 for a husky bar and rim so with a chain its getting near to £300 and if it is something serious there is no way its worth that.

 

In regards to Mattys post about a short block, I have just had to order one in and they have gone up a fair bit, £180 + vat now, does save a fair bit of time though.

 

The saw I mentioned with the bit of stuck chip was easy to see without taking the flywheel off. The serial numbe will start with 2014XXXX 2015XXXX etc showing the date of manufacture.

 

Good luck with whatever you do and I hope you dont have to much grief getting your money back.I wouldnt start taking it apart though if you are sending it back.