Ripping Chain ** VS ** Cutting Chain

[Drew87]

Looking for advice on the above Chain Situation..

Id like expert advice please Abrtalkers.??.

 

Researching them has been done .. But the Pro's n Con's of each,, to my understanding so far, is 'Preference.??'

Surely one chain for milling is better than the other.??

 

Im looking for an all round Good pair of Chains I can stick to,, n not have to worry about swapping & changing, whilst going all through the market selections (Too pricey for me to do that).

1x For Hard n 1x For Soft bits (Dont like the idea of using one chain for both is all)

With as little Finishing as possible,, Without losing too much chain from constant sharpening. Im guessing here,, (from peoples posts,, and Youtube, etc) Its also technique of the operator that dulls the Ripping Chain, Faster.?? Or is it the Angle n types of teeth.??

Id like to know any & all Genuine hints & tips that could help,, Before I go ahead n buy a loada wrong chains, or chains that dont do what I want them too etc.. OLD MILL,, looking for some advise off of you too if I may sir..

 

Thanks Arbtalk

[Jamespepperpot]

A ripping chain will leave a fair better finish - pretty much as smooth or smoother than a bandsaw mill. Also it's semi chisel and seems to stay sharper longer than a normal chain would - especially if you hit any debris as it doesn't damage the working corner as much.

However they are slower for cutting across the grain than a normal chain. For the time it takes to change a chain over it would definitely be better to buy a ripping one. You'll be thankful when it comes to preparing the boards for whatever you're going to use them for!

[Drew87]

Many thanks James,, Just had an Alaskan delivered yesterday and itching to use it, Chain, &, Lube Res coming soon .. Thank you fella,, true Gent

[agrimog]

cross cut chain vs ripping chain.......mmmm, no contest really, depending on the type of timber your milling, anything from a 4 degree grind to a 10 degree grind will produce the finish you require (the only way to find whats right for you is experimentation, bar length, cutting speed, and style of cutting all effect the result), for optimum results Ive found stihl's pmx hard to beat (3/8 pico) seems to perform beter after its first sharpen, maybe this is just me, as for how often to sharpen.....you'll know very quickly, little and often seems to be the best option, and screw your oil pump up to the max output, you'll be amazed at how clogged chains can get when they heat up, likewise bars, you'll spend a lot of time cleaning up. welcome to the weird world of chainsaw milling

[Drew87]

Thanks Agrimog .. Thats penned in notes.

 

Any advice n experience is very welcomed.. cheers bud

[Haironyourchest]

I sent for a ripping chain a years ago for our 395XP. Up till then, we had been using a regular chain filed to 5 degrees. It worked, but was very slow. When the new "ripping chain" arrived at the tool hire, I when to pick it up and was surprised - imagining it would be a skip-tooth 0 degree chain. It looked just like a regular chain to my eyes, 30 degree grind etc. I queried if they had made a mistake and they said no, it was definitely a ripping chain. I was skeptical, but it performed really well in oak, left a pretty smooth finish, even at 30 degrees.

[flatyre]

hope i'm not hijacking the thread but I have a spare husky 18",.325, 72dl bar lying in the shed which has a 1.5wide groove. Unfortunately the chains I bought for it are stihl and Oregon which need a 1.6mm groove. Does anyone sell a suitable rip chain for this bar? would it be better than the standard cross cut chain when milling such small diameters, and if so would I be better just buying a 72dl .325 1.5mm husky ripping chain or shelve the bar and buy a 72dl .325 1.6mm bar and ripping chain and have my spare chains?

[Rob D]

hope i'm not hijacking the thread but I have a spare husky 18",.325, 72dl bar lying in the shed which has a 1.5wide groove. Unfortunately the chains I bought for it are stihl and Oregon which need a 1.6mm groove. Does anyone sell a suitable rip chain for this bar? would it be better than the standard cross cut chain when milling such small diameters, and if so would I be better just buying a 72dl .325 1.5mm husky ripping chain or shelve the bar and buy a 72dl .325 1.6mm bar and ripping chain and have my spare chains?

 

 

No clear answer on that one but we have all makes and sizes of ripping chain here - CUSTOM CHAIN LOOP - Chainsawbars so you could buy a ripping chain for that bar.

 

 

And we do a .325 .063 bar for Husky saws here GROUP 3 Husqvarna chainsaws Archives - Page 2 of 3 - Sugihara Guide Bars

 

 

[Rob D]

I sent for a ripping chain a years ago for our 395XP. Up till then, we had been using a regular chain filed to 5 degrees. It worked, but was very slow. When the new "ripping chain" arrived at the tool hire, I when to pick it up and was surprised - imagining it would be a skip-tooth 0 degree chain. It looked just like a regular chain to my eyes, 30 degree grind etc. I queried if they had made a mistake and they said no, it was definitely a ripping chain. I was skeptical, but it performed really well in oak, left a pretty smooth finish, even at 30 degrees.

 

 

This def was not a ripping chain - all ripping chains are ground to 10 degrees... You can still rip with a cross cut 30 degree chain and get ok results but you may find it can also be very juddery and leave a washboard effect.

[Rough Hewn]

Chainsaw lumber making by Will Malloff.

You can find it on the net for free.

Should keep you busy