kram

I've done it with lots of other things. My shaver for example, swapped the weak 18650 1.2ah cells for 3ah. Years back I did it on several bluetooth headphones, they had 60-120mah little lipo pouch cells. I did upgrade a couple with much larger cells, I had to modifiy the plastic case. The better one, I took the case off entirely and set it in epoxy - it needed to fit in motorbike lid, great until it fell down a storm drain. Basicically anything thats not using 18650 cells is likely to be lipo pouch cells. However there are some new types to be aware of - instead of a max voltage of 4.2v, some now go upto 4.35v. If you put a standard 4.2v cell in a 4.35v device, you are likely to get fire. The old one should be marked, also you can measure it when fully charged to be sure.

Different kind of spikes... I've been doing some hedging today, next to an oak, wearing my hedging trainers, they are great for being up a ladder. Every time I stood on an acorn in just the right place, one of these sods was poking through then retracting back into the foam. Three attempts to clean inside before I suspected something in the foam. Pulled about 20 from the right shoe and 3 from the left ! Any guess what they are from? Its a few months since I did any spikey hedges or brash dragging in trainers.

I wanted to buy branded spikes but the price has doubled in the few years I've been working, I think its a rip off. I ordered these clones. Couple of reciews say they need a sharpen out of the box, replace the plastic tpu bottom straps immediately. The top foam appears comfy, the metal bits are all good. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0DHBKQYXW

The webbing and buckles on all of them appears to be the wide sort, I'm wondering if it will get in the way or get caught on things? Better if it were narrow like the normal leather straps? Or is the wide sort, not a problem? I saw this video ages ago but never tried it. It makes good sense, but its not going to work with thick webbing. Just been having a look at Notch and Buckingham's, instead of normal webbing adjusters (goes through and back through, locking on itself) the buckle ones seem to use single hole and velco adjustments?! Sort of defeats the point of the buckle?! Distel does use the webbing adjustment type and velcro, which I think could work, they are the only ones with branded AustriaAlpin Cobra buckles. If I dont want velcro on the lower straps, I'm thinking to make up some with AustriaAlpine Cobra 25mm buckles and webbing. First I have some cheapy amazon "tactical belt" webbing with buckles, I may try that on some spikes just to see how well it works before I decide anything. I'll have a backup rope for that test.. got a suitable tree on Tues to have a play with.

I explained badly, all NPTC tickets. For the rail ones, hedge and brush cutter, we had been using the tools for months so didnt get any training except the new giy got a brief half hour lesson by other staff. I left rail before doing any more. Cs30,31,38,39 were trained by an old guy who called himself an assesor. I wanted to skip the training to just have the assesments thorugh him, as I knew what I was doing, knew how to do the cuts, used chainbrake correctly etc.. He insisted in training and that he couldnt then assess me, so I'd have to wait, he dragged it out over several months...and then he doubled his training cost for cs38 39 and I had to pay it or find someone else which I'd already tried and given up on.. He got somone over from Ireland who apparently assesses other instructors. Well that would explain why the standards are a bit shite then... ..Those that can't, teach...

My experience is the opposite, assesors tend to hand out certificates without much care if the student is any good at it. Hedger and brush cutter was paid for by rail boss, was 10 minutes talk, couple minutes cutting each, then given the slip of paper, told to turn our phones off and disapear until 4pm, this was at about 8:30am. One of them was 100% green never used outdoor tools before. A week later, he is using hedger above his head, drops and catches it, amputating his finger. It got sewn back on.. Doing my CS31, one of the guys was unsafe, cut through his hinge, he didnt know the different felling cuts and had to be taughg by assesor, and didnt have proper control of a saw. Assesor passed him anyway, knowing he was in work for a local company and should quickly learn. The other guy was unable to safely use a saw and got told to find a different industry. When it came to cs38/39, the first guy had greatly improved and could now use a saw correctly, but was green with climbing, knots etc... he passed. Between the assesor, trainer and the other student, one of them stole my long sling and a carabiner.

Spikes, what do you use and what type of fastening do they have around the foot - have you tried other types? I've used Distel's and a few others, all had worn out leather straps, found them a pain to get on and needed a few adjustments before they were secure for climbing. I want to get my own pair with a different type, likely the webbing buckles.

I recommend getting an Imax B8, B6 or the various off brand clones (of a chinese item). This is intended for RC lithium charging but it will also do a very good job of lead acid, telling you exactly how much charge has done in, how much was in it with a discharge test. Generally Pb batteries are over rated abot 4x becuase of the way they degrade, this makes them last about 10x longer than if a smaller battery was specified. I generally say if measures at 50% capacity its time to be aware of future problems. At 25-40% you can expect problems if you leave lights on or dont give it ample chance to recharge. Below 20% you should expect problems, keep a jump starter with you and consider replacing. However theres little point replacing one if it will be used once, left to discharge for three years and then need replacing again.

To be honest if you have feet that much bigger than sensible, normal sizes, you likely need them made to measure - theres little more irritating than badly fitted boots! These list size 15 as being euro 50, but withna 4 week lead time.and possibly French. Solidur KAILASH Chainsaw Boots | Class 2 Chainsaw Safety Boots SEVSAFE.CO.UK Arborist's Solidur KAILASH chainsaw boots with Class 2 chainsaw protection, excellent foot support, cold insulation and flexible leather construction.

Ask the council which team they used and keep it safe for them - council trees are usually done by contractor teams. It would feel awful to loose personal kit just from trying to get a job done, worse than having it stolen if its from rushing and stupidity. The only things I've lost yet are lots of cheap door stop wedges and a sling/carabiner that were pinched by the NTPC trainer. Had my phone returned to me last year, it was only gone a few minutes fell out of pocket. The returner got 20 quid which was all I had on me.

Interesting! I assumed there is, or would be, a second belt to drive up to the cutter head, but a bit of google tells me its a chain drive inside the tube frame, later ones were shaft drive. They are from 1950's onwards.

I'd say they are taking the piss, maintence and small damages should be accounted for in the hire price, grease and oil are standard maintence that they should be doing before/after each hire so its ready for the next guy. I'd suggest he disputes the charges which may be easier if credit card was used.

Each time I've had this on other saws, my air filter has unexpectedly become caked in shite, it can be suprising how quick it can cake up. It may be the idle screw is a bit low but adjusting it could be hiding other issues. Always clean the air filter first. Are you warming it up before you climb? A full throttle start can get a saw running and I usually start my 2511 like that, as it will start first pull. How old is your fuel? More than a couple weeks, tip it out and a get a fresh mix to rule that out, always helps tho I happily use 3 month old mixes. Next thing to check is a fresh NGK sparky and check the gap as they are rarely the specified 0.5mm that they should be for mine - I dont know if thats the same for a 151.

I could be interested, pics and prices please, price for all three? Can never have too many saws. Where are you?

First proper use of ladder. I like it, very stable. It fits well on the roof rack, rungs are perfectly spaced. It'll extend two steps higher.

Interesting, something I have thought about doing and I bought a set of excersize bands for it last year - I remember the thick one is something like 60 or 80kg pull strength and would likely launch a throw bag to the moon! I dont know if I'd care for the trigger but its a neat solution. I'll watch the video later. I wouldnt really want to carry an extra steel pole. I wonder if a launcher head could be affixed to my Magnusson pruner pole or to my ladders.

Pigeon? Saw them on rocks whilst climbing. Took photo thinking it may be something rarer. Wintours leap in Chepstow.

From the photos, I'd quite happily climb that, thorns dont bother me too much, done several smaller ones before.

Nothing much, they were dirty chains coated in resin and rust, I was hoping that diesel would get some of the resin off. It didnt touch it.

A large number are using Rotatech oil, and the many other brands listed in this discussion, with no problems. The only issue I've had with rotatech oil was a small sealed pot of it that I left some chains soaking in the garden outside, wasnt as sealed as I thought! After using the electric sharpener I was dunking/soaking them in diesel for a few days and then oil. The diesel probably had water in it. Rain got in, and the oil turned to a thick white emulsified gloop. I believe thats caused by the sticky additive for making it cling to the bar, reacts with water. I'd expect water might turn other chainsaw oils to gloop, perhaps something to test with several different brands. Anyway thats never caused an issue with my saws, I'd happily buy it again if the price were more competitive.

After a whole week of unnessasary stress.. the re-sent DPD ladder changed from "at depot", to "returning to sender". I sped off to rescue them, no time to find straps for the roof rack, they would have to fit in the car! Neither DPD or DX could give me any rational explaination. Got them home. Got the comical cardboard wrapping into the recycling. Its not perfect, theres a small dent on the top rung and the weld quality is hidden by the plastic covers. At 8 rungs its very stable. I'll find somewhere better and without sandles before I try 15 rungs, but it would give a working height near roof level of the average house.

Not sure if I want to know the story behind your name, but @AHPP does..

Screenrecorder-2025-09-02-15-57-01-495.mp4 Wouldnt mind one of these! Looks like a one off machined item, powered by a wood router or similar tool? From here

You thought the weedy DUC150 with a 300w motor would be your tool for medium takedowns, or has this discussion changed into something unrelated? The 2511 is a great saw but Im now convinced that battery is the way to go for any saw below a 020T, hedgers, blowers, brush cutters, polesaws.. Whats with the wrist? Past injury? Anyway for your described use, the DCS2500 seems on the small side. The Makita has great balance, but it is larger. I'd like to try the Echo but not seen it in the wild.

Missing the point, Im not going to replace my 2511, UC002 or 020T. These pruning saws are supposed to be quite a bit smaller and more compact than a top handle, and I do a lot of work where that would be a great help. The Makita UC029 is a lot bigger than I expected, unsure how much use it will get. I'll keep it anyway for the free battery promotion. I have the UC002 which is a great battery saw and similar total weight to the DCS2500. Its a bit bigger, half a size up, more power and better batteries. Much better than a 2511 for removals, feels like double the power. Chains from ebay or amazon. Or you could put a fancy Stihl picco 1/4", but nothing wrong with the standard chains. I have joined some to use on my 2511 before...