kram

I have a couple of spare new Echo 10" carving bars in 0.050" gauge that I bought by mistake, I'm never going to use them as I like 0.043". Today I was converting two packs of 5 cheapy chains into five 60DL for the 2511. I have used them before on the cordless so I know quality is ok. The only issue is that master links are not available anywhere so I have had to reuse them. I could turn some new pins on the lathe but until one fails I cant say its worth the extra effort. Ordered a couple more packs of the cheapy chains as I like having lots of spares.

I have been trying this recently, a small loop of cord to tend the hitch. It works well, it needs to be unclipped for changing anchors. The cord is small enough it doesnt get in the way when throwing the rope.

After a careless mistake and chopping my new Marlow flipline I have ordered one of these to try for £23. Ordered another Marlow one. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CR9ZXF1G https://www.radmoretucker.co.uk/shop/tree-climbing-arborist-equipment/tree-climbing-equipment/lanyards-fliplines/marlow-wire-core-flip-line-3m-no-snap-hook/ I was reaching down one handed to cut an irritating branch below me and didnt notice the bright colours! I will stop using a wire core when its not required, most of the time a plain rope lanyard would be better.

You could likely take the output end of the Hyundai and fit it to another machine to convert. Assuming those attachements were working well for you? Its useful having a lathe,welder, brazing kit etc... to do that kind of stuff. If the Hyundai doesnt start theres likely an issue with carb or a leak somewhere, a bit beyond my skills to diagnose but I would instead suggest tryjng to fix it. The customer service were a pain to deal with but got my blower sorted eventually.

A small update, I put the original cyl and piston back on as the replacement needs some minor fettling that I dont have time for right now. I did find time to do the .325 chain. I decided to lengthen it as suggested by somone on here, 78DL needed for the cheap 20" bar. Enlarged the bar slot and new oil holes. However, the bar is slightly narrower than the saw mountings which is a problem, it means the chain can pinch when tightening the case up. I had to modify the shim plate and put a 45 degree chamfer on the bar mount surfaces for clearance. Seems ok now tho I havent run or cut with it yet. At ~£3 per chain it will be worth the effort if it works.

Yes after work I like to go rock climbing about 3 days a week. Perhaps having strong arms already, a bigger saw is no problem for me.

Have you tried a knut hitch? It may need an extra wrap or two. I use treehog 120cm, or 8mm/10mm Ocean cord that I spliced myself. Treehog TH1153 Eye To Eye Sling - Radmore & Tucker WWW.RADMORETUCKER.CO.UK The Treehog eye to eye sling is a 10mm diamter hitch which is both grippy and heat resistant which are ideal for prussik cords and friction hitches...

Haven't seen my tiny shed or car boot! Ofcourse a business is going to have a large lockup and a decent sized space in a tipper truck. You dont have to use a longer bar. With a 372 you get the option and 30 seconds to swap it, so 1.3kg is the difference. The real difference is it will use more fuel, if you are walking along a rail clearance where the fuel can may be with somone a mile away, it could get annoying.

5.3kg vs 6.6kg excluding bar/chain. It takes the same storage space and weights not much more than my 35cc CS340. It may use 2-3x more fuel. Yes it does depend what your doing with it. I have assumed Milkgod will be doing general ground work for domestics. I worked for a while doing rail clearance and we used ms261's. For that we rarely needed a long bar or power and it was a pain carrying the weight for miles each day walking along the trac, but its what we were given. For that purpose I'd personally choose an Echo 2511WES rear handle with a 16", 1/4 pitch .043" bar. It would take longer but be so light to carry!

I havent tried the bigger Echos but my climbing saw is a cs2511, worth every penny of £400. Theres northing wrong with a cheapy saw to start off with. Always good to have a backup saw. Get a good saw when your earing decent money at it. I left IT development in 2021 and got my tickets for climbing last year. Anyway I like the 372XP, wheather thats the cheapy, or a used genuine, or a new one (572XP), they are a good saw. The weight, size and price is not much more than a 35-50cc. Husqvarna 572 XP Petrol Chainsaw (70.6cc) - Radmore & Tucker WWW.RADMORETUCKER.CO.UK Featuring a 70.6CC petrol engine with a powerful 4.3kW output, the Husqvarna 572XP® Petrol Chainsaw has been designed to work harder for...

You dont need a £500 saw. I think the maximum bar length is 16" but that doesnt mean you cant fit a shorter bar on a more useful, bigger saw. I did my CS31 with a cheapy McCulloch CS340 16" that Lidl were selling for £99. My trainer/assessors saws were not in good running condition so thats why I insisted I use my own. The cs340 did the job but is far less powerful than a pro saw of the same engine size, so wouldnt recommed it. Whatever saw you use must have the warning labels, but you can buy the stickers off ebay should you get a used saw or import thats missing them. I know most dislike the pattern/clone saws but I am quite happy with my Farmertec G372XP, its a bit bigger than they might expect, you can fit a 16" bar no issue. At 72cc it has enough power for most ground work. I see little point in also having a 35-60cc ground saw when this can do everything. (It did not come with the warning stickers) 71cc Holzfforma Gasoline G372XP Top Quality For Husqvarna 372XP NO Bar & Chain WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Chainsaw type Holzfforma single cylinder 2 stroke engine. Chain Sprocket Standard 7 tooth 3/8" pitch. Total Mass Without bar and chain 6.8kgs...

Butler has pissed in the can? I drained the tank of my CBR6 last week. Hasnt been ridden since 2020 but the tank was near empty in 21. In 2022 I added 5L of fresh petrol to try and get her running, but there was an electrical issue. I now have 6L of this... I am thinking I could mix a litre in each 5L fuel mix until its gone.. hmm Note the brown crud on the pump is not rust, it comes off easily.. more of a varnish.

I have started on this, well stripping the old cyl off, I would value any input as I am new to 2 strokes. Also note having just fixed a tank issue she has had a lot of starting attempts recently and not done any real work or warmed up for couple weeks - may explain the carbon? Nice to see well oiled for a 50:1 mix. The light vertical scoring can not be felt by fingernail and I believe was there from new. Glazing/burning in the last pic? Roof of cyl has some tiny marks, a sign of debris getting in, or running lean? Thanks for reading.

I paid £230 delivered for my 020T that had been almost unused - it was a retired climbers spare saw and in perfect condition. Fresh fuel and fired up no problems. I'd say I got a very good deal and they are every bit as capable as the modern versions, the MS201 is selling for £750 new. Perhaps upto £300 but they are old with no warranty. Lots of pattern spares available so it may be worth building your spare saw into a runner. I much prefer the smaller Echo 2511 so I find the 020T is only used for blocking down trunks upto about 16" then I switch to the g372xp. If I could only take two saws it would be the 2511 and g372xp, the 020T would be left at home.

I've no problem buying proper branded gear off Amazon in two situations - it either has to be sold directly by Amazon, or by a known, real shop who use Amazon, of which there are quite a few. Got quite a few bits of decent gear like that, 100% genuine. Then theres the unknown branded chinese stuff. Much of it looks identical and made in the same factory as the branded ones (rope grabs, pulleys, some carabiners). I have a fair number of the cheap carabiners for accessory use, they make perfect saw clips on side of harness. I use an ascender - no risk if it fails as I'll always have another connection to rope .. no problems with any of it so far. Generally wouldnt use for PPE use. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tsudoku-Adjustable-Climbing-Positioning-Arborists/dp/B0CZ6JRDC7 The flip line, the carabiner/snap hook look rubbish and wouldnt use them but I imagine with wire core is ok. However at £44 its not really any cheaper than a branded wire core. I dont like rope grabs so that would be replaced with a knut hitch but its likely adequate.

Blackie chicks do look ugly with their oversized beak! We usually have a nest just outside our kitchen but last year I removed the overgrown bayleaf. Noticed their new nest is a couple meters along in the ivy fence (used to be a fence, not much fence left just a wall of ivy!). Currently has atleast two chicks in it.

Im after a clutch drum that will allow me to use .325 sprockets and chains. I have a 7 and 8 tooth rim sprockets with 19mm splines so that will be preferable. The saw has 22mm splines. Best option would be a .325, 8 tooth 22mm spline rim sprocket. Or a spur sprocket. Unfortunately dimensions are not often listed so finding a suitable match is a pain. It seems there may be .325 rim sprockets with other size spines but I dont see any with 22mm bore. A 9 tooth might exist but would likely require a more powerful saw to drive the chain that fast (Its a 372xp) I have a lathe and tig welder, worst case I will weld/braze the rim sprocket to a lump of decent steel and turn a new clutch drum, but its more effort than I'd like (most of which is swapping the collet chuck to the 4 jaw.. the turning I enjoy!) I have a very cheap supply of .325 20" chains so its worth the effort. Out of interest, anyone know what grade of steel a normal clutch drum is made from? No point using the 708m40T if mild will do it - but I think that may wear excessively from the brake. Thanks Mark

The 52mm big bore kit has arrived. I dont really know what to look for in the cylinder, so I got a load of photos to show you. Looks good to me. Couple of lumps at the top of combustion chamber but above the piston.

One problem was the original felling dogs were made of cheese, and came with a spare oversized comedy dogs that reduce the usable length of the bar. I used O1 tool steel and cut some new dogs mostly a copy of the original shape but slightly longer.

That doesnt mean they are not effective just that they are untested. I can say wearing gloves makes a huge difference over not wearing gloves, so it stands that some must be better and worse than others. It would be great if somone did testing and put together a standard for it - but then we might be required to wear them all the time... Hmm. I like the thin cut protection gloves for working/climbing in a tree, but the vibration protection likely non existant. They do resist the silky a bit. For ground work I use thicker leather work gloves - cheap things the council gave out to the hedge team when I worked for them. These seem to be pretty good at vibration and thorn resistance. I dislike my mates newish Stihl 500i as it gives me a sore wrist from starting it! Quite happy with my 020T My worst event of white finger with a saw was from a relatively new McCulloch CS380 using it for hedge trimming for about an hour.

The hose must have been kinked or blocked, thanks for the suggestion. I pulled the hose up into airbox.and blew through it to check it was clear, then it started ok.

Its running perfectly now, starts first pull and idles nice in all positions! It was worth the couple hours of swearing to swap over the tank... I have ordered this. It generally gets good reviews but I will check it over before fitting.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07Z5VXZMD Last week I hit some hidden wire/nail that was deep in the trunk. Perhaps a bird put it there as it was near the top... Anyway half of the left side, cutters are destroyed and will need to be ground back a long way.. expensive full chisel chain is ruined 🤬 Now I have a cheap 20" bar and loads of cheap £2.70 chains in .325 pitch but I need to modify a clutch drum/sprocket as it seems you cant buy a 22mm bore .325.

From a hand vibration and weight/stress viewpoint I think it would be much better even if the cable needs frequent replacement, it would be worth it. Your right about bad reviews but its the only backpack one I can see. For normal combi tools there are a few brands available but its likely the same chinese kit.

I have used trimmers quite a bit for rail clearance. Would be useful to have a multi head tool for small jobs - I dont plan to be doing any large clearance work. Hate using hedgers as they kill my arms. I've used backpack blowers and hated wearing them, but like the extra power. That has me wondering if a backpack multi tool would be any good, particually as a hedger, it should be much easier on the arms, but bloody awkward up a ladder. This sort of thing - unfortunately I dont see any branded versions. http://www.amazon.co.uk/eSkde-Powerful-Gardening-Backpack-including/dp/B07GLL49DQ What do you think? Is there a reason Stihl/Husq dont make a backpack one? The reviews on the amazon are mixed, as always chinese stuff should be considered a loosely assembled box of parts.

I suppose most experienced climbers will trust using the flip line more. I dont often get to spike up a tree so my confidence in it is a bit low.