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I've just bought some 3m X5A's which will do for noise, even so I'd prefer not to need them for hedging. Wearing them briefly indoors seemed to give me a headache. @Joe Newton No I am just after something fit for purpose and not excessively loud. Quite happily spent £400 on the Echo 2511TESC which is a great saw and would again if I lost it. The Makita, which on previous page seems to be winning, is £340 and within my budget, tho possibly doesnt have as much length as a multitool option and extension. Just been to the Echo dealer. I did t realise just how extortionate their battery tools are. £400 just for power unit, £400 for attachements, £300 for a battery and I didnt ask about the charger. The extension pole however, was a reasonably priced £69. Looks like £1300+ compared to £700-800 for a dedicated petrol tool from the main brands. They had one of these but couldnt tell me the price, it looked to have a decent blade and lighter than the Echo. Anyone know if they are good? EH230DSL MARUYAMA-US.COM Rugged and reliable, outstanding power and performance, great balance, and blade lengths, styles, and engine classes to meet nearly any... Anyway Im currently in two minds. I could use a basic petrol 52cc multitool with a strimmer/polesaw for very rare/occasional use, so I am tempted to get a cheap kit off amazon. It will be heavy and uncomfortable. I could then adapt a Fakita brushless chainsaw to be a power unit for the hedger attachement. That would be cheap, plenty of power, already have suitable batteries and possibly lighter than the commercial offerings too.

I meant the max branch diameter/blade spacing, is listed as 23mm. Whether it can manage to cut it is another matter unless its soft lile bramble.

Have a few days off so some time to look at tools, I still need a decent cordless hedger. Is that the DUN500WZ model? 503 - Service Unavailable Error WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK Shows the max cut as 23mm, seems plenty?! Not sure what the Stihl petrol ones are.

These were thick 30mm brambles. Quite sure a bit got caught inside the cable and yanked it off the pulley as I pulled the stick out. Its not the normal expected use for this tool. I will remove the rivet for a shoulder bolt and a taller pulley so it cant happen again. The length and reach and use of the tool are great. Anyway the Milwaunkee above seems good but its only 3m, not adjustable angle, heavier and £600+. I'm not convinced it would do the thinner stuff as well as the manual one, and that is most of what we use it for. That wouldnt be so bad if the head was replacable for a polesaw and hedge trimmer, but its not, they are all seperate tools that would be very expensive.. I now have a spare bracket for the saw attachement, so I might fit my fakita tools onto that for polesaw and electric pruner use.

Those external string types are nasty, do not like. The anvil is facing downwards, fixed angle and bulky, its hard to target the branch you want. The Fiskars style is slimline, for example, you can go through a bush and nip a bramble at the centre then pull it out in one length. 100x nicer to use, particually from a ladder or up a tree. The Ars ones appear to be a 1:1 ratio as the handle has very little travel, wont be much good! Also half the length. Also to add, B&Q were sold out so I originally got a refund. Screwfix sell them and was a lot closer than the next B&Q so got replacement there.

Many of you use one of these? My mate had a pair of the Fiskars, which were excellent, and you'd hope so at £130. Sadly due to a lack of maintence, one is broken and needs a new string and the other recently was stolen along with a rake - tho Id say more likely they fell off somewhere around the m25. We use it just as much from the ground as from ladder or in the tree. I have just bought the cheaper Magnusson version for £85, yesterday. It seems good quality, likely from the same factory. This one comes with a saw blade where as the Fiskars its an extra. Magnusson Tree Bypass Telescopic Loppers WWW.DIY.COM The extended reach of this tree lopper allows access to high tree branches without the need of a ladder, whilst allowing for trimming at ground... After an hours use copping bramble and puling them out, the cable fell off the pulley. The problem is that little guard over the pulley is riveted on, I could have drilled it out for a shoulder bolt, but it was easier to get a replacement. They said swapping a bolt wouldnt harm warranty either. Good tool in my opinion.

Dont pollard them. They will tollerate a reduction of say 3 meters with no problem.

Thirty six pounds for a shiting plastic clip!? I shall not be paying that. Saw and bought these X5A's reduced to £31. I shall wear them for chipping. I might adapt the original protos bracket to fit them, as I'm never going to want the originals again once its done. 3M Peltor X5A Ear Defenders with Headband, Earmuffs for Reliable Hearing Protection Against High Noise Levels in Industrial Settings, 37 dB, Black : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK Buy 3M Peltor X5A Ear Defenders with Headband, Earmuffs for Reliable Hearing Protection Against High Noise Levels in Industrial Settings, 37 dB...

This tree is a message from above that the owner, is a dick. It does appear to have more topping points above giving it the widened ballbag type appearance. Perhaps a lesson, dont top connifers as they could grow into a cock shape.

I have £50 Fakita 6" single handed pruning saw. I was after something extremely light and its 1.2kg including the battery. I did intend to get a brushless one but misread the listing and it has a 775 DC motor. I was going to return it but kept it for the two decent enough batteries. It proved itself one day I only had the 2511 or this and had to cut a low stump. Motor is big enough that its not likely to burn out and has reasonable power. I also suggest an electric finger chopper, very good if the cuts are all under 40mm. I have done a few fruit trees entirely with it. I regret not getting one with a pole extension! Be very careful where you have your fingers! The finger chopper is also a Fakita. Makita do make them but at a ridiculous price £600+ and with a lower jaw capacity, so this is likely better. It is great for trimming ivy without damaging bark on a tree.

Do you have a link to the Bahco? Is it a pruning tool or just a pole? I quite often use a throw ball in the tree to reach limbs that I cant throw a normal rope to. We have a 4 meter Fiskars UP86/UPX86 pole pruner which is great for pruning small stuff, grabbing a rope or ball after throwing. Also very handy to retrieve branches that should not have fallen on the wrong side of a customers fence. Saved me a few, would be embarrasing knocks on neghbours doors to gain access to tidy up...

Drill what holes? In the new Stihl bar? If I have to get a replacement bar I'll go for the farmertec Holzfforma® Pro 10inch 1/4 .043 56DL Guide Bar For Stihl carving chainsaws mini chainsaws and many pole chainsaws replace OEM 3005-008-3403 from China manufacturer - Farmertec WWW.FARMERTEC.COM Holzfforma® Pro 10inch 1/4 .043 56DL Guide Bar For Stihl carving chainsaws mini chainsaws and many pole chainsaws replace OEM...

I am very happy with my G372XP. Some minor issues with the original tank but they sent me a good replacement and has ran perfectly since. Had a reasonable amount of use this year blocking down larger trunks. Lots of power. Theres very little weight or size saving on a smaller model so just get the 72cc. Pardon our interruption... WWW.EBAY.CO.UK 71cc Holzfforma® Orange Dark Gray G372 Gasoline Chain Saw Power Head 50mm Bore Without Guide Bar and Chain Top Quality By Farmertec All Parts Are For Husqvarna 372XP Chainsaw from China manufacturer - Farmertec WWW.FARMERTEC.COM 71cc Holzfforma® Orange Dark Gray G372 Gasoline Chain Saw Power Head 50mm Bore Without Guide Bar and Chain Top Quality By...

Saw this in the comments So hold off if wanting to buy a new rope runner 😆

Fair enough I will get one. I see the PM3 1/4" - is that the correct one? is listed as micro chisel which may be near enough full chisel to get the 10% they claim. Even so it is more cutting surface area in the wood at any time which eats power. Where is the best place to buy one? And chains in general for that matter. I'm going to get a 3/8LP FC anyway to try. However I dont see that I need a new bar. Stihl dont do it in 60DL so I'll get a 12" 64DL? and shorten it.

I did buy one for use as a cinching pole anchor but not using it, its not in my climbing kit bag at the moment. I have no worries about the safety of it, they had a few recalls already. Shortly after buying I saw this video. It works very well, the rings stay permenetly on my ropes, nothing to be dropped like a ultra or quicky. Perhaps the same will work for a base anchor? I dont use them.

Dont think it will be any different to the standard TESC. Cuts better you say? Its semi chisel, 1/4" pitch so more cutters in the wood and less efficient than a 3/8" full chisel. More cutters to be sharpened too. Carving bar is lighter. Narrow nose is useful for topping cuts and delicate pruning. Tho the standard bar on my mates MS151T is near enough the same size/shape as the carving bar anyway. The standard TES bar has a bigger nose. My carving bar is showing near zero wear after quite a lot of use, so I cant see a situation where the standard bar would be an advantage.

For what advantage? Near enough the same as the original TESC kit. @Joe Newtonr are not clutches a left hand thread so if anything they will tighten when reved or loaded?! It'll come off you run without a bar and kill the engine after revving to stop it or shut the throttle too quick from full speed - atleast if it was only hand tight, once its been cutting it should be tight as it'll get.

Perhaps I am mistaken, but have seen pictures of damage caused by a failed clutch. I assume it can occur if it becomes unbalanced, say if a spring broke or fell out. Over speeding too, I was warned never to run/test a saw without a bar and chain. Anyway back to chains. A 3/8LP sprocket has arrived and I plan to try the 2511 with a Stihl full chisel chain, preferably if I can I will keep using the narrow nose 10" carving bars. The nose radius might be too small for the cutter length in which case the rear of cutter will rub a bit like a high raker, so it wont do bore cuts. It should still cut normally away from the nose and after a few sharpenings, would be ok. I have a spare .050" bar so nothing lost by trying. I was looking at the Speedcut Nano system but they appear to be semi chisel, and a small saw like this could use the extra cutting efficiency. Would anyone know what length I need? Otherwise I can measure up a spare chain - but that means swapping the sprocket, which is a pain while its in daily use.. I could order a long one and shorten as needed, but prefer not to.

The problem is you are now aware you have an arsehole of a neighbour. You could play the fun game of, see whos a bigger arsehole. If it doesnt cost him, he will do it again, or worse. He has gone well past the boundry with that, although it wouldnt have looked too good, he has gone too far. The law on boundry trees says they can cut, but they cant force you to pay for the cut or to take back any waste. I'd be chucking it back over, speared into his lawn in a circle and leave a turd in the centre.

Thats quite a lot ! How do you know when the clutch springs are done? One of the possible situations with a chainsaw that scares me greatly is a clutch explosion!

Ah, do you have a photo from before it was cut? Looks like they have cut to the boundry which they are fully entitled to do. You can see it has previously been cut hard on your side so all of the growth is on the boundry. Remove and start again.

Add the photo here please? If it was a good, un butchered tree, and it has been pollarded, it could become a rubbish tree in that it will need regular maintence, as it will have greatly increased growth along with weakness and much higher risk of decay. Generally it will need cutting again within a few years, but most home owners will ignore it for 10 or so due to the cost. That is not to say that pollards are always bad, similarly if it has been done before, you will just have to accept it as it is. Make a case against them in the small claims court, as their action will cost you a great amount of money in the future. As a basis for your claim, get a quote for the tree to be removed and replaced with an equal sized tree using a tree spade (£££££££) and the recurring cost of a high maintence pollarded tree.

Brushed motor, in these sort of tools they usually burn out well before the brushes need replacing. Looks like a cheapy, with no branding on the battery? Suggest a new brushless one. Same situation myself I was going to look for a brushless Fakita.

I use one of these, it is cheap and nasty but seems to work ok for settingnup my G372XP Yooreal Digital Tachometer Hour Meter,SVC Timer,Resettable Hours,Replaceable Battery for Lawn Mower Generator Chainsaw Outboard Motor Snowblower Jet Ski Dirt Bike : Amazon.co.uk: Garden WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK Yooreal Digital Tachometer Hour Meter,SVC Timer,Resettable Hours,Replaceable Battery for Lawn Mower Generator Chainsaw Outboard...