kram

Yes I have about 30 pairs of grippy cut resistant gloves, very good for climbing in as they give some silky protection but not too thick, thicker than the normal cheapies and the rubber lasts well. Mapa 582 Krytech. KRYTECH 582 NITRILE ANTI CUT LEVEL 4 GLOVES (SZ-9) WWW.EBAY.CO.UK <p dir="ltr" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;">Protect your hands with these Krrytech 582 Nitrile Anticut Level 4 Gloves. Designed for...

What device or prussik? No huge difference in friction for a knut between 11mm and 1/2" rope. One thing I havent seen others, that I do to ascend DRT, I usually have a wrap or two rope around my right wrist as it makes much easier to grip, but means shaking the slack down/arm up, after each pull. Although I am a rock climber with superb grip, I do need to wrap the rope to pull my fat 100kg arse up the rope. I have never had great arm strength.

The oldest 2008 photo shows a wall which is gone in later photos. We can probably assume when the wall was put in, roots may have been cut for a foundation or slab? Wonder if they removed foundations or just removed above ground when that went. Very little roots where the wall once lived. Tree that size should have roots stretching much further out. I believe thats the cause, sorry nothing to do with the pruning Somone with more experience should tell the guy and family that got hurt, perhaps they can claim proper compensation from the owners.

Aninteresting feature on street view is to look back in the same view over previous years

From the other side: looks to me that its been topped in the past as theres a large number of parallel stems.

Would anyone know the difference between the V1 and V3? I am tempted to get one at V1 prices but there doesnt appear any difference in the spec. I assume if there was a recall, they wouldnt be selling the V1.

Back to the 2511. I swapped the sprocket, suprised to find some rubbish between the socket and worm drive, must have been there since new? Without it there does seem to be some play which may be how it got sucked in there if it wasnt packing from the factory.... I have only used this saw in the tree and being careful not to cut any rubbish that may blunt my chains.. The 1/4" .050" carving bars can be used with 3/8" chains but the length needed is 42DL, not 40. As I dont want another spec of 3/8" 10" chains, so I decided it were best to modify the bar and shorten it at the sprocket end. Had to take off a reasonable amount so new adjuster holes needed. The bars are reasonably hard metal, so a decent drill bit is required. These bars have additional slots, for lightening? which could cause chain oil to leak out, so I will need to fill that with epoxy resin. The original TESC bar doesnt have these slots. Left is a new bar and right the modified one.

TBM means they are using the manhole (cover?!) as the height reference to measure everything from. I assume they put stickers everywhere for reference points. Manholes are generally large, textured rather than flat, probably not level and unlikely to be accurate if you remove the machine and replace it in a slightly different position. Just 3 measurements? Not a great sample size. I dont know what equipement they used, a theodolite? but the values do seem questionable, up and down, without a consistant trend which with only three samples could just be human error from placing the machine. Either way the measure of 2.3mm is on the scale of a blond one. I would not accept those results, particually not as evidence of the trees causing issue.

Nitrile is no good with modern fuels. I believe it is supposed to be Viton for fuel/ethanol resistance? The original was black and I'm assuming nitrile as it didnt last long. Anyway I have gone with the fast option, 9am Sunday delivery.. pack of 25 for a fiver. sourcing map Fluorine Rubber O Rings, 5mm OD, 3mm Inner Diameter, 1mm Width, Seal Gasket Black 25Pcs : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK Free delivery and returns on all eligible orders. Shop sourcing map Fluorine Rubber O Rings, 5mm OD, 3mm Inner Diameter, 1mm Width, Seal... They fit well, purge bulb instantly works and squirts the remaining water that was left in the carb, put it back together and ready to reassemble the saw. I'll attempt to check over the KM111R later.

I wont claim to know how to specifiy O rings... Will message some friends about it tomorrow. Something like this may do. FKM O-Rings Metric 1mm-6mm Cross Section 1mm-253mm ID Rubber Oil Resistant Seals WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Material: Fluorine Rubber(FKM). Cross Section(CS): 1mm 2mm 4mm 5mm 6mm. Features: Good oil resistance, wear resistance...

The cause of the Mcculloch Cs340 problem is comfirmed. Shrivelled O ring. @Mark_Skylandwould you know if accelerator pump O rings are available? I suspect I will need to go to an engineering supplier. The bore is 5mm and piston OD measures 4.94mm, and ID for the oring is roughly 3.2mm (measured the piston, not the O ring itself). Slot width roughtly 1.2-1.3mm and old oring is a little under 1.2mm thick.

Watched a video yesterday about a Stihl trimmer. The leak was an oring on the accelerator pump section of the carb, and the video implied its a common problem (also states that orings are not available from stihl and proceeds to seal it up, but any engineeering supplier should be able to get small viton orings if you can measure the size accurately) I've just located the accelerator pump section on the cs340 and selectively dunked it in a cup of water. When the acc pump is submerged, it will suck up and squirt water. Theres a tiny circlip that I cant easily remove at the moment so will get it apart later on. Acc pump is behind the throttle shaft in the hole, below the blue line, which is where I had it submerged.

Very helpful reply. These are spares but we would like them fixed. The bulb and hoses are not split, the air leak is occuring inside the carb. Thanks I will have a look. The YT video I saw, suggested a blocked exhaust and it does seem to have some resistance when I blow through it, I think Im going to boil exhaust in caustic for half hour as that should remove any carbon deposits. The blower starts up fine, after the initial warm up, it will run at 100% throttle without issue for about 30 seconds. After that, above 80% throttle it will bog down and loose power. The cylinder and piston look good, viewed from the exhaust port. When I checked spark plug the gap was large so replaced it and ran better for a few minutes before it started again. He bought a new one after a couple of days before I had a chance to look at it.

What should I be looking for? The purge bulbs appear intact and the leaks are within the carbs themselves. They are not purging/sucking fuel into the carb. Had one apart, cleaned the non rubber parts/passageways with carb cleaner and reassembled to no improvement, all looked clean inside. This was from a newish saw with very little use (training before my CS31 and blocking down a handfull of trees). Husq/McCulloch Cs340. Genuine carb is £60 and more than its worth so rather repair this one. Genuine Husqvarna Carburettor 14mm Air Bore - 586 93 62-02 WWW.GARDENHIRESPARES.CO.UK Genuine part suitable for some of the following makes & models; Husqvarna 120 Mark II, 230, 235, 235e, 236, 236e, 240, 240e, Jonsered CS2234... The other is from a Stihl kombi engine, I have not got the carb off yet, the purge bulb is cracking but still holds suction against my hand. It has not been maintained... Mycelium air filter? Behind the air filter is clean but havent pulled carb off yet, Im not sure how throttle linkage comes off. Third is a BG86C blower, carb appears fine as it starts easy enough but looses power after a short time at full throttle and believe that may be a clogged exhaust/spark arrestor. The air filter is clean, sparkplug is new.

Are these, 0520 and 0510, the same part? Both are listed for the saw on LSE

My old one looks like that on the screw cap except has the ball string like this one. I dont want the flip cap type and dont think it fits anyway. Do you have that?

For processing, are you after long logs? What size/diameter/quantity etc are you after? That may help get you some helpful responses. Find your local arborists and ask them. They will likely be more inclined to help if you can collect from sites. Chip might pay well in some places but we are paying to tip! Although last jobs around Slough had a free tip.

Where can I get an 020T oil cap from then? lSR list about 20 variations and not clear what will fit, and rhe ones I can see, seem to have a plastic keeper thing, rather than the string/ball thing that is captive in the saw.

I dont see what the advantage is compared to 3/8". Oregon just making a new standard for the fun of it, yet its semi chisel only. Just reminded me about the 020T! My oil caps been falling off randomly and discovered the thread has cracked, need to order a new one.

Im still considering the Makita, or one of the other power tool brands. The Milwaunkee is listed as 25mm cut diameter. However for now I decided I also want a strimmer/brushcutter and polesaw, and I like the idea that extensions are available to increase the reach to 4m or so. I have ordered a cheap multitool. Already have one of these 52cc engines for an earth auger and although heavy, they do work. Should have plenty of power. eSkde 52cc 5 in 1 Petrol Garden Multi Tool Hedge Trimmer Chainsaw Strimmer Brushcutter Chainsaw 2 Stroke MT52-S23 : Amazon.co.uk: Garden WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK Great prices on your favourite Gardening brands, and free delivery on eligible orders. Whole kit is cheaper than a branded hedger attachment. I'll experiment powering it with a brushless chainsaw.

Good drawing, helps a lot understanding the layout. Sunlight will play nearly no part of this as the trees are to the north west of them, but will be blocking your morning and afternoon sunlight, if Im reading it correctly. Please could you also get a photo showing the height of your trees, plus a rough guess in meters for each. Removing the trees might cause you to have ground movement issues. Their money would be better spent fixing their problems, drainage, foundations etc rather than removing trees. I'd guess the extensive boulding work of extensions and the pool might be more to blame. Whilst you could have them do an arborist survey to map the roots it would likely be more beneficial to have them do a surveyor specialising in ground movement to examine it. I suggest you demand to see a report made by a relevant profession explaining in detail, why the trees are causing the issue and what should be done to remedy it. Its no good if somone has just guessed the trees and thats their first try. You can say you want to see the report and get a second opinion, and if it does highlight a real problem, only then you will give permission.

For now this chains a one-off so wont be doing more anytime soon, should last ages and I have 3 good original chains to be used up. Mark is correct, LSE do have the tie straps. I'm sure I previously looked and couldnt find any.. anyway as they are not suitable for other brands I have no use for any more right now. Anyway as for the cutters, looks almost identical to the originals except a slightly more square on the chisel. Hope to try it next week! Need to also get the 1/4" sprocket off and try the 3/8" in this..

Had time to shorten the 64DL to 60DL today. Stihl are a bit stingy on the rivet pins as unlike other chains, theres not enough meat to reuse them, and new 1/4" master links are near unobtainium. The pins and their holes in the drive link are smaller diameter than other 1/4" chains, tho I could have enlarged them, or used lathe to turn new pins, but I have stuff infront of it for the moment. I am out of gas for the tig welder, so stick weld it is! 1.6mm electrodes, are still on the large side for tiny delicate chains, but have had success before. Not pretty but perfectly functional, the links move freely and will not be coming off, tempered at 230c so wont be brittle.

It would help is uf you could provide an aerial photo, or if not, a simple drawing of the layout, showing the location of trees, house, garden boundries and the pool, with north marked to give an idea of sunlight distribution.

Not just ground down, you want the stumps fully removed and them to pay for it! Given that roots are the supposed problem anyway. Stump grinding only goes down a few inches. Digging around and winching out will be more complete but time consuming, a task for a landscaper rather than arborist, at their expense. Seems you have plenty to counter any suit and if you like the trees I wouldnt be bullied to remove them. Roots can be mapped to show if they are or not a problem and you could request they do that before cutting. Wouldnt suprise me if its all made up about subsidence with the owners just wanting more light over the pool. Note that insurers do not care about individual cases. In the motor insurance they often trade X many claims against Y from another insurer rather than on the merits of each case. They want low risk and are going by what their customer has told them, they are unlikely to have visited themselves. I believe there is a requirement in building control regs or something to prevent surface run off onto a boundry, they should have adequate drainage for the paved area so that you do not recieve their water.