Muddy42
-
Posts
617 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Calendar
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by Muddy42
-
The 391 are the "farm" or "semi-pro" types of Stihl saw. I had a play with one recently and didn't really like it - heavy but not with the power that I'd expect from that weight. Also I think they are all the less robust and difficult to work on clamshell design. So personally I wouldn't spend hundred on a new cylinder and parts, even Meteor.
-
Any pics of the grain? I find it amazing people still have elm of this thickness, around here anything that big has been dead and rotted for 50 years. The seed bank must be fairly decent because smaller trees still get going and survive for a bit.
-
As per the title and photos below - left photo shows it unclipped and the right photo shows it reattached. I think this controls the choke. Does anyone have any quick fixes? I was thinking of taking the whole switch off and building up the plastic with epoxy, perhaps so the wire attached to a hole rather than a slot.
-
3 replacement coils with broken wires? But maybe, easy to test.
-
I think the 880 was the last non mtronic, but that's a good point to confirm as this would be a totally different problem. Regarding your 461 and 880, they may have different screw patterns, but you could try swapping the coils? Or testing the working 461 in parallel. Yes do test from coil to the plug cap and test the continuity between the case near the cylinder and the case near the coil. My 088 is a beast to start. Some people say it helps to get beyond the compression stroke then pull? Pulling with no spark plug fitted gives you an idea of what is mechanical and what is compression.
-
So multiple new coils, spark plugs and flywheels and no spark. Are you sure you dont have a wiring problem elsewhere, is the on off switch disconnected? Can you describe your multimeter and continuity test in more detail?
-
True. Maybe I should keep my views to myself, its so personal and depends on your height, strength and what your cutting. I'm sure there is a case for a 261 and a 400 with appropriate range of bars. If one broke down you could use the other easily. If felling and limbing, you are more sensitive to weight. But at the other extreme, I often ring/block up massive unsplittable bits of oak. I do this kneeling so I don't care how heavy the saw is - 120 cc is ideal!
-
Id also recommend the 50cc 261 and a 15 inch bar.
-
£550 or so? The OP hasn't replied yet, but I recon a gap of a >20cc between saws is about right. Any less that that and you could get the power jump with a sharper chain / shorter or lighter bar etc. I'm not sure I'd set out to have a 261 and a 400 or a 400 and a 461. That's just my view, but also I like saws and having spares is always worthwhile and you always seem to loose money when you trade in well looked after saws.
-
Yes I often do this!
-
The fact the fuel ends up being shaken into the cylinder isn't right. If you apply air (gently, 3 psi is more than enough, too much can cause damage) to where the fuel line enters the carb it should hold pressure and not let in any air and hence fuel. If it leaks hold the carb under water to trace the leak - maybe one of the covers ins't screwed down properly. It could be that the valves (that are part of the diaphrams that the shop replaced) are leaking, installed badly or the needle is not closing properly or the spring is weak. The repair place should have checked that the carb was working after installing a carb kit. Find someone decent. Generally chokes enrich the mixture by restricting air not adding more fuel so the position of the choke shouldn't matter.
-
Read this @Botty Cough I think this explains the difference of opinion. I only have internal clutched Stihl chainsaws and have never suffered this issue. I can see how an external clutch is way more exposed.
-
So are you saying that this only happens on externally mounted clutches? Or just that it is more likely to happen on externally mounted clutches but it can happen on both types? Thanks
-
If it runs, you could fuel it on 10:1, attach a hose pipe to it and try smoking out rats. I've always wanted to try this.
-
Yes, I presume as the clutch is reverse threaded, in a post-acceleration phase the clutch could spin "forward" faster than the engine and undo. Presumably the clutch then needs to pop the clip off and it runs across the floor away from you? As said I have never had this issue, but I never rev much and after a clutch removal I make sure it first gets used with bar and cover on and a chain brake to tighten it fully.
-
I have done this often to test oiling and never had a problem (granted for short periods and only a little throttle beyond idle). And not if the clutch had just been taken off.
-
Sorry if this is basic, but have you ran it without the bar and chain on to see where the oil spews out? If its coming out of the hole that lines up with the bar that's what its meant to do. Unless the saw has an adjustable oiler (I don't think it does) there is not much you can do. When you say spewing, can you be a bit more specific? All saws will leak bar oil to some extent if oil is left in the tank, 50ml or so. You could try draining the tank, leaving the saw in a different orientation or a more viscous oil. Personally I buy chain oil in bulk, put adjustable oilers at max and don't worry about it. Resting saws on cardboard to soak oil up works quite well. The opposite of too little oil is way worse!
-
Some helpful stuff, but it annoys me when stove fitters "bash open fires" to promote installing modern stoves. We're all on the same team here. Yes open fires can be fuel inefficient, but they are part of the heritage of older properties and clay lined flues can easily work flawlessly for 200 years. Will stoves and metal liners last that long? For old but well maintained rural properties, I have no issue with the occasional open fire for family gatherings etc. I would be sad if kids never got the chance to enjoy "open fire TV" on a winter evening. Apologies for the rant.
-
Great, its strange how saws you have had for years and only thought of as a workhorse become collectable. Hopefully someone will be able to fix the metal case. Everything else works fine.
-
Nothing really, unless someone strays into CHP! Yes I don't have an EV and am not really interested in export, nor trading power (charging batteries at off-peak to export at peak) etc. Selfishly I see this at solving someone else's problem and the export prices aren't good enough yet. I'm aiming to have battery simply to keep power back from the average day to cover the average night's usage (or if that's not possible simply reduce winter peak power usage).
-
I had the PV installed last year and am currently looking at battery systems from Giv energy or My energy. Yes I am procrastinating about the cost (dropping VAT has helped) but its also quite hard to size the system properly because Octopus havn't installed a smart meter yet (grrr!).
-
Just as an update to this seal leak, I'm afraid to say this chainsaw is RIP and sold for parts on Ebay (its unbelievable what people will pay). I got the clutch-side seal replaced fine, but the flywheel-side simply would not seal. It was leaking on the outside of the seal where it meets the metal of the body. On inspection, I found a chip and crack in the metal of the saw body. I swear this is an old problem (covered by dirt) and not caused by me pulling out the seal. I probably could have bodged some kind of repair with epoxy, but I would never really be happy with it. Its frustrating that I wasted money on seals, but I learned a bit more about saw disassembly. I've bought a three year old 261, so now I need to learn about coping with Mtronic!
-
Because you say kwh, I presume you are just referring to the cost of batteries? I was trying to look at the total cost - PV panels, inverter and batteries. Granted every installation is different - mine are on a shed rather than my house which makes the installation simpler, but requires a longer cable. My only stipulation was I didn't want a tesla battery because I think Elon is a pr1ck. Ah so the fact its DIY will explains the reduced cost, nice 1.
-
Interesting. Are you sure that £6k quote is correct? From the cost of mine, other quotes, your quote, your daughter's quote, I expect solar to to come out at about £3k per kw of generating capacity. This ignores VAT (which many can reclaim and its been dropped for battery storage now) and assumes the cost of inverter (maybe slightly overloaded) and about double the battery storage so 10kwh for a 5kw system. £6k for a 5kw system would be ridiculously cheap. Thanks
-
Its a complex problem, but local multiple source of microgeneration and batteries have to be part of the solution. A friend of mine has had a small hydro for 10 years now and doesn't buy any electricity between October and March. When solar goes in soon, he'll be almost totally off-grid. Hopefully the cost will come down.
