Muddy42

Scrub with hot soapy water then dry.

If you a relatively rural, just talk to local farmers or landowners. After the recent winds, most of them will have trees or branches down than need clearing up. Not everyone has vehicles and equipment, but as spring and summer progresses, you can get a 4x4 further afield.

So this is another update to this MS460. As above I was having all kinds of issues with chain oiling. I cleaned everything out and replaced faceplate, oil pump, worm gear and oil tank breather. But I still wasn't that happy with the oiling, even with the setting turned to max. Bar oil had been leaking a bit so I wanted to test the alignment of the bar to the saw. I traced the shape of the bar on a piece of cardboard and put the carboard next to the saw. Right enough the holes didn't quite match. I could tell the nose sprocket was getting worn and occasionally the nose seized up, so I had nothing to lose because I was looking at a new bar anyway. So I have opened up up the oiler holes on the bar with a drill press to 5mm and them cleaned it up with a dremel. This seems to have helped, the bar is spraying oil off the tip again. Fingers crossed - I've had lots of false dawns before!

Yes that explains the manual too - limiter caps!

Awesome! Glad it was an easy fix! I'm not sure of your knowledge level but you should only consider 1.25 out as a starting point. The saw will start at this but make sure you do actually tune from there to get the best performance. Really be careful with the H settings and high revs because this can destroy a saw very quickly. I leave the H at default or use a tachometer and keep the revs comfortably on the safe side of max.

Are you sure you mean low at 1/4 out, normally saw won't run at that? I start with both H and L out by 1.25 / 1.5 turns and a little bit of idle so its engaging the throttle. I then tune the L so its a bit richer than peak revs. Then do H with the tach. All this time the chain should be spinning because idle is screwed in a bit. Then undo the idle screw until the chain stops spinning. The idle should only just be engaging the throttle, if you know what I mean. Are you saying you get to this stage and the saw dies when the chain stops spinning? When you say fully rebuilt, I presume this means new everything - spark plug, air filter, fuel line, impulse line, carb kit? Have you performed a pressure test?

Just wait until its a bit dryer (and the hedgehogs have stopped hibernating) then you can just stick a match in and the piles will burn in situ.

It depends! As you say, stoves in modern airtight homes won't draw without this extra air. Direct Air (DA) (with a tap) gives you more control over the air. BUT modern houses and modern living (breathing, showers, boiling pasta) create a lot of moisture so this needs thinking about. Managing moisture this is often over looked in modern houses with resulting dampness and condensation. Modern houses need trickle vents, extractor fans or MVHR anyway. Older houses are less airtight so do not need DA to work, but it could still be a good idea depending on the stove. One of my modern stoves in my old house needs a window opened in order to avoid smoking into the room - presumably this little f*cker could benefit from some DA. But old houses need air changes and to manage moisture aswell, so why not aide this with a stove? Personally I think old houses just need a lot of heat - its just good for the walls, plaster and structure. I think the design of DA is critical. You don't want to just be introducing cold air to your house via the stove. Id want a tap to be able to adjust/turn off the external air flow. Any primary vents (for lighting from cold) and the rest of the stove need to be very airtight too

Ah yes I see that. If you are interested listen to the podcast. I'm not sure if james Kennedy is the architect of the scheme or just carrying out orders but the eradication policy had to adapt and evolve and was pretty cunning by the end. They set up a whole process for reporting sightings of grey squirrels, baited open traps to attract visitors and then constantly moving the traps around to new areas. The traps were alarmed to send a text message when something was caught and the open baited traps took hair samples to identify the visitors. The last grey squirrel was seen in early 2024. There is a lot on the podcast about what next or what happens if a few greys survive or return? Clearly a much more sophisticated approach is needed that just setting a couple of traps and waiting for a highly intelligent animal like the squirrel to eradicate itself.

This podcast about eradicating grey squirrels from Aberdeen city centre is fascinating 47 Saving Scotland's Red Squirrels: A Conversation with James Kennedy PODCASTS.APPLE.COM Podcast Episode · The Outdoor Gibbon · 30/09/2024 · 1h 30m

Understood, that's pretty annoying.

Are you sure the bar is at fault here and not "user error"? That is a hell of a break. I hope the saw is OK. One alternative it to get another Tsumura, you now have a spare tip for it.

Management can mean lots of things. I think you are doing the right thing by opening up denser areas of woodland. Maybe in the summer you can flail some of the thicker parts. I'm not a total hippie, but arguably some aspects of rearing pheasants is not great for wildlife. The birds eat all the invertebrates, the bird poo changes the nutrients in the soil, spilled grain can attracts rats and the birds themselves provide temporary autumn food for foxes and raptors that then go after something else for food in the rest of the year. Maybe you could plant some natural game crops, which might stop birds wandering and keep the feed bill down?

that's a lot of fuel to use in one day!

Can you just clarify that you are not just lining an existing chimney, but putting in a totally new run in what is presumably a modern house? Assuming its the later, I agree with you that visible twin wall flues look horrible. Personally I would go with single wall in the house and twin in the roof. BUT you need an installer that you can trust, that should be able to advise you. This also should make it compliant with the various regs and you have more justification to go back to them should something go wrong. Unfortunately (and I've posted about this ad nauseam) modern stoves have very precise tolerances for draft, flue height, flue insulation etc. Get it slightly wrong and the stove will smoke into the room. The stoves operating manual will advise you. Plus because modern houses are airtight, stoves sometimes need a dedicated piped air supply from the outside. I spoke to these guys before buying and they were really helpful. Search results for: 'liner' WWW.STOVESPARESLTD.CO.UK UK premier supplier of woodburning & multi fuel stove spares & parts at LOW prices with fast delivery.

Thanks for all your help. As its the only gas I have, I used this and swapped back to normal wire on the mower deck. Yes there was splatter, but I can tell the weld is penetrating better and is stronger. For the remaining holes, I stopped trying to do fancy but joints and made patches to overlap the holes and welded them from both sides. Its a mower so strength and function is more important than looks. Back to the gas, I guess that explains why I was getting amazing results with this heavy gas on thicker metal then. But for thick stuff I was also getting pretty decent results with flux core. So once this is used up I'll get some 5% stuff. Thanks again.

Ah OK, its good that you have seen it in person, ignore me then. Maybe I am just seeing problems that aren't there. I've just welded some extra metal support onto a stove that had buckled slightly at the back (probably because I overheated it).

If you are getting one saw I would go for the MS400, its amazing BUT you mention storm damage (where branches are often tangled or up in the air) wanting to reduce weight and vibrations. You can probably get a vehicle close. Your cutting sounds very similar to me. This is classic territory for two saws - a small one for cutting out brash and smaller stuff, then swap to the big saw to log the trunk. At this stage access has been improved, you can use the big saw close to your body and the weight matters less. Keep the 08 for this. I always say that everyone should have a 50-ish cc saw like the MS261 and saw a say a 14/16 inch bar. Light as a feather (4.9kg), so you can use it all day and punches way above its weight in terms of power.

Very true. I burn anything

Tarps rip, tin is noisy, pallets are awkward. I've tried all of these and found them all a bit Heath Robinson and unsatisfactory. Personally unless you are going to put a proper supported roof on that stack, Id just leave the logs where they are and bring them in during 2026.

Obviously a large open-sided shed is the best (and involves less handling) but not everyone has space for two or three years worth of logs. Personally I find wood seasons quite quickly uncovered, I guess it receives even more wind and sun and maybe the rain helps too to freeze/wash out the sap? Even if a seasoned log then gets wet this tends to just be on the surface and it quickly dries out. The downside is that you need to move the logs in to your undercover store eventually - choose a dry day in the summer

@doobin

Actually Ive just checked and my disposable cans are 86% argon, 14% CO2. What about that? I'll do some testing first. Last time I tried them my local Hobbyweld only had massive canisters and were trying to puish me towards rental which annoyed me. I'll try them again.

Interesting that does make sense. I can get decent flux core results when welding thick metal, more power and longer periods of welding. Its any thin metal or repeatedly tack welding where the results are poor. I do have some proper MIG wire and a few disposable gas cans. Thanks.

thanks