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Muddy42

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Everything posted by Muddy42

  1. Muddy42
    Agreed, the only thing I find with those additives is they can bung up the sprayer nozzles. That's fine if you are doing a lot and can rinse out the sprayer afterwards, but I have one sprayer that is permanently filled with glyphosate.
  2. Muddy42
    Ive never come across anything that wont survive 2 or 3 doses of max strength glyphosate performed in dry weather. I sometimes have to do more doses, but thats because I have missed some or it rained! you can even inject it down the hollow stems of things like bamboo or knotweed
  3. Muddy42
    Don't you just fill this out (or paper version in post office)? I think what you can drive always carries forward, including B+E. Putting it another way, they don't have enough test capacity! Renew your driving licence if you're 70 or over - GOV.UK WWW.GOV.UK Renew your driving licence online if you're 70 or over. Use form D46P to apply by post
  4. Muddy42
    I agree with all of the above about abusing the bamboo with maximum cutting and poison. Just one more thought, once you have got the stems to ground level, between cycles of cutting and poison, you could cover the bamboo with a weed proof membrane. This would stop any sunlight or other weeds growing or children touching the poison. You could even cover the membrane with fake astroturf lawn?
  5. Muddy42
    thanks for the comprehensive explanation. I’ll try both approaches on Friday.
  6. Muddy42
    I have a second hand Mountfield SP535 HW with a Honda engine. I got it cheap because of various minor issues. I've fixed everything apart from the drive. Is meant to drive both rear wheels when you engage the lower handle, the upper handle being the 'dead man's handle. At the moment only one wheel turns quite weakly. I've had the blade and lower cover off, cleared out all the grass and oiled everything. The belt is intact and working. The gearbox seems ok and is turning the axle. The axle is connected to a small cog which turns a large cog inside the wheel. ive had the wheels off but I can't find anything wrong. The cogs do slip a bit, but surely something has to slip so you can push the mower without drive or even to reverse or turn the thing? Any advice gratefully received.
  7. Muddy42
    @Rob D the link above no longer reaches your milling FAQs for some reason. A good read!
  8. Muddy42
    The zinc in galvanisation conducts electricity nearly as well as steel. I'm not sure how thoroughly they assemble galvanised cars but if the chassis was drilled or a patch ground afterwards you'd be back to conducting via steel anyway. I'm sure you're mechanic will check this. Glad it passed.
  9. Muddy42
    yup, that's my understanding, even if the body is galvanised, the chassis is used as the negative. Less wires to go wrong, cheaper and simpler to work on.
  10. Muddy42
    Sorry if you have done this, but Id suggest lots of testing with a multimeter first to isolate the issue and map out how the electrics work. Not sure what car it is, but I check with the engine running rather than just with the ignition on. I use a crocodile clip to extend the multimeter to battery negative or known earth. Check for voltage with each part of the wiring - battery to fuse, check fuse, to switch, to light. Then check continuity to light's earth. As above, once you have found the part of the system that's not working, crawl around and look for obvious issues or just bypass the standard wiring.
  11. Muddy42
    Sorry yes. You are totally right, I have the older 18v LXT version not the 40v XGT version. It looks identical, but with double the power it will be awesome. Yes taking the guard off makes it much handier to use. As above my only slight niggle is the bar attachment on the LXT. Its a bit plasticy and the chain can run loose if you are hard on the saw. I'm not going to do anything now, but in my mind if it breaks or gets any worse, I'll replace the plastic bolt with a wing nut and a large washer.
  12. Muddy42
    I have been using one for a while. Its amazingly powerful and can go through 6 inch logs at a push. Great for clearing paths or for keeping in the truck for in an emergency. If you force the chain or pinch the bar, it can throw a chain, but you soon learn how to work with it. Ive now taken the guard off.
  13. Muddy42
    Cut it to a height where it won't damage the building, if it dies or doesn't sprout well, cut the rest
  14. Muddy42
    You do that. And remember shaken not stirred. I'm still recovering after getting sprayed in the face with a mist of unleaded yesterday - fixing weeping car fuel tank bung. I think the tank was pressurized for some reason. Central heating oil is also another delicacy that hangs around the senses for a while. Im probably going to get cancer.
  15. Muddy42
    I'm the opposite, turn the oiler up to max and use the lightest oil possible! Having to stop and clean out bar oil tanks and oil lines and replace prematurely worn bars is not fun.
  16. Muddy42
    If you add Riberna to your water it tastes different from adding water to your Ribena. Do you think the same applies to two stroke oil?
  17. Muddy42
    Why? The petrol side of the husquvarna combi cans that you already have would be just fine for mixed petrol. Bar oil in the other side.
  18. Muddy42
    You can mix fuel into any container you want - any combi can, or Ive used plastic milk bottles. Its best also with a big and small measuring jug. So three containers in total. - plan what quantities and ratio you need - say 5 litre (same as 5000 ml) of fuel and 50:1 - use large measuring jug to measure fuel and add it to the combi can - use small measuring jug to measure oil and add it to the combi can - if you want to be a pro, add the oil half way through adding the fuel stage so you can rinse out the small jug. that's it. Dont use the old fashioned imperial measurements - its much harder. Im sure there are youtube videos.
  19. Muddy42
    Yes. If in doubt at all or you don't have squeezable measuring jars. Use a big jug to measure the fuel: and and a small jug to measure the two stoke oil:
  20. Muddy42
    I think whatever gizmo you have you need to be able to check the maths. So to mix 5 litres at 40:1, you take out your phone and type in 5000 / 40 = 125 ml of oil. Now I hope I've got that right
  21. Muddy42
    You'll have a shock when you need to buy the next bottle of red line - £109 for a gallon or 3.4 litres. About 5x as expensive as other stuff. or just buy 50:1 alkalyte and adjust the ratio
  22. Muddy42
    seen these before, can't say it looks that accurate though
  23. Muddy42
    Combi cans are for mixed fuel on on side and chainsaw bar oil on the other. Not neat two stroke oil? I only ever keep neat petrol in rectangular 5l petrol cans. Mixed fuel goes in old aspen bottles (these pour really well). I fill the aspen bottle with 4 litres of fuel (again 4l pours better than 5) either from the pump or using a 2 litre measuring jug. Then I use one of these squeezable metering bottles to get 40:1. I refill the metering jug with Oregon two stroke oil, the Stihl stuff is rubbish.
  24. Muddy42
    The big debate for me is flail versus rotary action. Rotary seems to need less HP for a given width and the quality of cut is probably better if it mulches well, but its far more susceptible to damage when you hit things. I have an old Bolens rotary mulching ride on mower that is great for orchards and rough lawns. It is almost falling to bits, but easy to maintain. I wouldn't dream of taking it round a field or bumpy ground. That's flail territory. The zero turn mowers are a bit better for getting near edges and round trees, but there is not much in it compared to a hydrostatic gears.
  25. Muddy42
    To be fair you did ask "what sort of stuff will the flail cut through?". Plus you said you had various tractors, a quad and flail and that you wanted less machines, without really specifying which ones you wanted to sell. Don't be surprised if you get vague answers. Personally I try to use the most HP, ride on and least manpower for the job. Even if that means reversing into corners and into trees, its easier than a walk behind or a strimmer. Front tractor mounted flails are even better, although you get less warning of an obstacle, not that that matters much with a flail. Why not hire a walk behind flail and see how much sweat pours when you walk it round a field? I did this a few years ago, then bought a tow behind flail. Thanks

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