Muddy42
-
Posts
1,115 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by Muddy42
-
I change a lot of small tyres - mowers, quad, trailers, wheelbarrow etc. Some tyres I can remove with basic tools, a vice, lubricant and lots of swearing, but some defeat me. The local garage doesn't really like changing small tyres and they have taken two weeks so far to do the last one and no doubt it will be expensive. I can fit valves, tubes, patches, plugs and all the other bodges for non-road use. Can anyone recommend a manual tyre changing tool for small tyres? Something like this? Thanks
-
A digger suitable for site clearing and housebuilding digger.
Muddy42 replied to difflock's topic in Large equipment
Hire digger for clearing the site, then buy a loader for the build, far more useful. -
It doesnt have a H like a chainsaw just L and idle. The standard setting for L is open one turn, then adjust idle so the cutters dont move. If you cant get to this stage quickly or the machine isnt idling, I’d start looking for air leaks.
-
https://www.stihlusa.com/webcontent/cmsfilelibrary/instructionmanuals/hs75_80_manual.pdf
-
To be honest, your doing well to get three chains worth of life out of a Husqvarna 135 ! Assuming the saw and bar is OK, I'd clean up the bar, get the rails flat and true and replace the chain and sprocket. The problem is these parts wear together. An worn sprocket will mess up a new chain, a messed up chain will mess up the new sprocket.
-
well done. I'm sure you won't be disappointed
-
Personally I think you are on the right track. I'd get a battery hedgecutter to match either of your battery systems. I've used the Makita LXT one (DUH506) is excellent. Makita claim it can cut up to 20mm. That said I would keep your battery shears on a toolbelt for the big ones. I dont know the Einhell one or the longreach Makita one. If I was buying longreach it would be petrol. Keep the blades sharp.
-
As above, fourstoke engines are for things with wheels and not to be carried. The additional weight just isn't worth it. I hated their 35cc strimmer that I used to have.
-
Sorry I imagined the OP was clearing branches. But yes a strimmer and clearing saw is an option for ground work. The only issue I find with strimmer blades, is that eventually you biff a stone or metal and everything goes out of alignment and vibrates. I prefer a big engine and 4mm square string for brambles etc. Replacing string is cheaper than replacing parts. Also kombi tools tend to be sh*te and fail at the junction, dedicated tools are better.
-
or a hedge cutter and polesaw chainsaw with the same batteries? You can swipe polesaws around in the same way as a hedge cutter and they will tackle the larger branches with less stress. Its great for cutting off lower growth off lime trees for example.
-
Its interesting how people's opinions vary. What's your 'go to' saw now and why?
-
Mine has a 14 inch bar which feels just about perfectly balanced for a 50ish cc saw. 20 inch is 70ish territory for me, especially with oak. I’ll cut pretty much up to 2 foot with it, which is ideal for 90% of the work I do. well done. The 261 is a powerful thing that seems to start well and is easy to work on.
-
I have a lot of makita LXT battery tools for small jobs and I have to say they are amazing. Not broken one yet. But if I am doing any 'hard work' petrol powered followed by mains electric is the way to go. Battery just doesn't have the power and the components tend to be lighter weight. Alkalyte fuel produces far nicer fumes. Long reach hedge cutters keep the fumes further from the body.
-
Personally Id say it was suffering from drought, particularly given the brown lawn and healthy lavender.
-
Suggest a firewood saw please
Muddy42 replied to devonbrion1998's topic in Log burning stoves and fireplaces
Assuming someone who knows what they are talking about has done the basic things like replace the spark plug and tested the old module and pronounced it dead, I would think a replacement module would solve it, Yes. -
Suggest a firewood saw please
Muddy42 replied to devonbrion1998's topic in Log burning stoves and fireplaces
i would have included the exact same saws - ms400 and ms261 ! Both amazing saws -
I agree. The one downfall of the tool is that it throws the chain quiet easily, especially if you force the cut or catch a thin branch. That side cover and plastic nut thing does seem flimsy. If the nut ever broke, Id experiment with something else - maybe a locking wingnut and a massive repair washer?
-
So did I, after a period of learning how it behaves. It opens up the possibility of deeper cuts and undercuts. None of my other chainsaws have guards. Be careful and keep other limbs well away.
-
Thanks, and reassuringly expensive. I've just had a small victory. I've just managed to get a 16 inch brush through a flue that Id only ever managed to get an 8 inch brush through (open fire / no steel liner / just original clay lining). Id been treating somewhat sceptically with powdered flue creosote cleaner, so maybe that stuff does work after all.
-
Agreed, very strange this crime had nothing to do with employing qualified people?
-
Agreed. Manually oiling is surprisingly effective. Hopefully the motion of the chain will suck bar oil through.
-
dont use used engine oil. As above clean the bar, flush the oil tank out with and try squirting WD40 into the oiler mechanism. If that fails disassemble the oiling mechanism and squirt in more WD40. If that fails I would run the saw with diesel as the bar oil. A 10 year old Husqvarna 135 is not worth buying parts for. Just buy a new cheapo stihl or husvarna saw for £150 - £200.
-
Ask for a tap and die set for your birthday! If you use them gently (oil, fward and back etc) even the cheap ones will work fine to repair stripped threads. Sorry if you have done this but check the manual for the valve clearances and set them to the midpoint. I find setting valves incredibly temperamental and it often requires several attempts. Normally the tolerances are given as a range, ive sometimes fixed issues in used engines going for the tighter end of the range, if that makes sense.
-
So I take it there is no longer a leak in the head, which is good. It doesn't sound too bad to be honest. Yes incorrect valve adjustment could cause those backfires and loss of power - loose valves don't seal properly allowing unburnt fuel in when it shouldn't. Also you mentioned a dirty carb, this could mess with the fuel mix and cause backfires.
-
when you say burning oil, is that oil that is leaking round the head gasket then smoking off (like the photos in your first post) or has that oil leak been fixed and oil is still getting into the combustion, as a separate problem?
