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Muddy42

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Everything posted by Muddy42

  1. Its still nonsense to me. The Stage 1 report identified a roof (with gaps under the eves and missing slates) and attic space and said that theoretically this could be used by bats. Nothing earth shattering here - Any roof build before about 1970 won't be particularly airtight. I guess what I am trying to say is that in most other professions, there are situations where a stage 1 can be carried out (on a low cost or desktop basis) and there is no need for a stage 2. For old roofs, it seemed like stage 2 will always be required. It frustrated me that this wasn't made clear. The whole process needs a shake up and a cost reduction. Or use of CCTV or recording devices that don't require people to count bats manually all night.
  2. @pleasant So a wee update. I got the drive pinions off and both of them were moving freely. The internal parts for the wheel that is working are a bit worn, so they may need replaced in time. Behind the wheel that wasn't working, there were two problems. This plastic spacer is cracked, but I'm not sure that is causing any issues yet, its more to do with raising and lowering the height of the machine. Maybe I can glue it. Secondly the retaining wheel nut was stripped (not shown in these photos). I suspect this was preventing the large cog in the wheel from aligning with the pinion gear. I repaired the thread, but still no drive on that wheel! The investigation continues, maybe something wrong with the gearbox.
  3. Yes, it would be logical that the fence was constructed on the boundary and the hedge grew up around it, but who knows.
  4. Bat surveys make me so angry. I commissioned a stage 1 bat survey once. They couldn't find evidence of bats, BUT nor could they prove there weren't bats - answer stage 2 survey and more cost. I gave up and let the building's roof fall down naturally. What's the point of having a stage 1 survey if it leads to stage 2?
  5. Its not as straight forward as 'who owns the hedge.' What you need to establish is where is the land boundary between your land and your neighbours. You can download a title plan from the land registry. You can do what you like with a hedge growing on your land or branches of a hedge going over your land.
  6. I generally move bags on the loader, but when I have used a trailer, I ratcheted down a small section of ladder that I have lying around.
  7. Just be aware permethrin is also highly toxic to insects and pollinators. Dogs shouldn't be allowed to swim nor run through thick cover for 2 days after treatment.
  8. I only use bio oil near watercourses, as thats what is required by law. Its a shame all bio oils seem to bung up the tank and lines. My general response to poor oil is to dilute it with diesel, but this would rather defeat the object!
  9. Does the saw hang for a second or two from the starter rope (confirming reasonable compression)? What does the piston look like? Any leaks in the fuel and impulse line.
  10. You should have B+E AND the Cs on your current licence. If you passed at a time when these were issued (and I think you did) these are all grandfathered. Keep bashing away at the DVLA about what you want to keep, they will give in eventually.
  11. Agreed, the only thing I find with those additives is they can bung up the sprayer nozzles. That's fine if you are doing a lot and can rinse out the sprayer afterwards, but I have one sprayer that is permanently filled with glyphosate.
  12. Ive never come across anything that wont survive 2 or 3 doses of max strength glyphosate performed in dry weather. I sometimes have to do more doses, but thats because I have missed some or it rained! you can even inject it down the hollow stems of things like bamboo or knotweed
  13. Don't you just fill this out (or paper version in post office)? I think what you can drive always carries forward, including B+E. Putting it another way, they don't have enough test capacity! Renew your driving licence if you're 70 or over - GOV.UK WWW.GOV.UK Renew your driving licence online if you're 70 or over. Use form D46P to apply by post
  14. I agree with all of the above about abusing the bamboo with maximum cutting and poison. Just one more thought, once you have got the stems to ground level, between cycles of cutting and poison, you could cover the bamboo with a weed proof membrane. This would stop any sunlight or other weeds growing or children touching the poison. You could even cover the membrane with fake astroturf lawn?
  15. thanks for the comprehensive explanation. I’ll try both approaches on Friday.
  16. I have a second hand Mountfield SP535 HW with a Honda engine. I got it cheap because of various minor issues. I've fixed everything apart from the drive. Is meant to drive both rear wheels when you engage the lower handle, the upper handle being the 'dead man's handle. At the moment only one wheel turns quite weakly. I've had the blade and lower cover off, cleared out all the grass and oiled everything. The belt is intact and working. The gearbox seems ok and is turning the axle. The axle is connected to a small cog which turns a large cog inside the wheel. ive had the wheels off but I can't find anything wrong. The cogs do slip a bit, but surely something has to slip so you can push the mower without drive or even to reverse or turn the thing? Any advice gratefully received.
  17. @Rob D the link above no longer reaches your milling FAQs for some reason. A good read!
  18. The zinc in galvanisation conducts electricity nearly as well as steel. I'm not sure how thoroughly they assemble galvanised cars but if the chassis was drilled or a patch ground afterwards you'd be back to conducting via steel anyway. I'm sure you're mechanic will check this. Glad it passed.
  19. yup, that's my understanding, even if the body is galvanised, the chassis is used as the negative. Less wires to go wrong, cheaper and simpler to work on.
  20. Sorry if you have done this, but Id suggest lots of testing with a multimeter first to isolate the issue and map out how the electrics work. Not sure what car it is, but I check with the engine running rather than just with the ignition on. I use a crocodile clip to extend the multimeter to battery negative or known earth. Check for voltage with each part of the wiring - battery to fuse, check fuse, to switch, to light. Then check continuity to light's earth. As above, once you have found the part of the system that's not working, crawl around and look for obvious issues or just bypass the standard wiring.
  21. Sorry yes. You are totally right, I have the older 18v LXT version not the 40v XGT version. It looks identical, but with double the power it will be awesome. Yes taking the guard off makes it much handier to use. As above my only slight niggle is the bar attachment on the LXT. Its a bit plasticy and the chain can run loose if you are hard on the saw. I'm not going to do anything now, but in my mind if it breaks or gets any worse, I'll replace the plastic bolt with a wing nut and a large washer.
  22. I have been using one for a while. Its amazingly powerful and can go through 6 inch logs at a push. Great for clearing paths or for keeping in the truck for in an emergency. If you force the chain or pinch the bar, it can throw a chain, but you soon learn how to work with it. Ive now taken the guard off.
  23. Cut it to a height where it won't damage the building, if it dies or doesn't sprout well, cut the rest
  24. You do that. And remember shaken not stirred. I'm still recovering after getting sprayed in the face with a mist of unleaded yesterday - fixing weeping car fuel tank bung. I think the tank was pressurized for some reason. Central heating oil is also another delicacy that hangs around the senses for a while. Im probably going to get cancer.
  25. I'm the opposite, turn the oiler up to max and use the lightest oil possible! Having to stop and clean out bar oil tanks and oil lines and replace prematurely worn bars is not fun.

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